I need to replace inner tie rods. I know the outer ones need to come off first and i need to mark the threads . but i am not sure how they come out. The boot clamp needs to be cut off i take it, does the tie rod just pull out? Also i see on ebay they are half the cost than the ones from auto zone are these ok? Thanks for any input

Take the nut off the outer and smack the outside of the spindle (where the tie rod bolts to) with a BFH (A.K.A. Big Friggin' Hammer), and the tie rod will fall out of the hole. The impact will elongate the hole in which the tie rod taper resides and force it out... Don't be afraid to use some muscle, and if it doesn't work the first time, get a bigger hammer!

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carpe diem

i think he is talkin about the one that goes to the rack.. not the spindle.. i could be wrong.. but i am not asking how is that end of the rod come off?

I have rebuilt a few fiero steering systems for the pre 88's.
The inner tie rod is threaded to the rack. it will unthread after you grind/remove the dimpled area.
I think I can explain this better...
what you will see:
The inner has two flattened sides of about 1/4 inch in from the rack to inner tie rod end of the inner tie rod. these sides are compressed to keep the inner tie rod from loosening. These spots have to be ground down or pried out from the rack to allow the inner to unthread.
When you remove the outer tie rod from the inner, count the rotations to remove it. Then install it on the new one with the same amount of turns. install the inner on the rack and use vice grips or hammer and punch (a small coal chisel works pretty well) to re-compress the 1/4 inch flattened area. then install the outer back into the spindle. this should still be re-aligned by a shop, but it should be close enough to drive until a shop can re-align it.
I don't know for sure, but I suspect the 88's are similar

[This message has been edited by IFLYR22 (edited 09-26-2007).]

ok well awesome.. thanks for the info.. i have play in mine.. on the inner that connects to the rack.. how would you fix that.. is there an end bushing that is replaced like the fords?

the threads on the rack are about 1/2 inch diameter (13mm) and course thread. if the flattened area is not lined up with the flat area of the rack, a small washer or spacer (no thicker than 1/8 inch) can be inserted to help the flattened areas to line up when the inner is tight on the rack.
I had that problem with the last steering rebuild I did. It took a 3/32 spacer to get them to line up perfectly.
if the inner is loose, the flattened areas should be looked at. Sometimes, if the inner is still good, they can be re-tightened and re-punched. I usually don't like to do that, but the inners are pricey.

i cant thank you enought...thanks

your welcome.
btw:
you can remove the outer from the inner without removing the outer from the spindle. Just twist the threaded part of the inner that threads into the outer (after loosening the jam nut).
Then remove the inner from the rack.
install the new inner to the rack.
then install the inner back to the outer.

with the boots/bellows in the way - there is no way to tell if the slop is in the steering rack bushing or the inner tie-rod.
if it is the passenger side, and you got jiggle - good chance it is the steering rack bushing.
next thing: if you buy a new (rebuilt) steering rack from autozone, it comes with new inner tie rods & bellows already attached - $180