hi all

i was thinking of getting a new hood-but the only reason i would would be to get one that has a "scoop" or a "vent"...not one that pops up, put one that pops down, and into the car

well i was looking at other threads and someone said that the front space wasn't suppose to be in contact with any of the elements....basically what i am sayin here is that my current hood is just fine....but if it's not to much of a hassle, i would like to get a new one

all info is appreciated

also, any sites i can find hoods on

thanks

I have a hood vent for sale. Hand-laid hood vent of my own design. A friend saw mine, & said it was the "best looking hood vent" he'd ever seen on a Fiero, & I should pull a mold (so I did). Others have told me the same thing. Pics of one/other info can be seen in Scott Kimball's installation thread: https://www.fiero.nl/forum/Forum2/HTML/079950.html & at http://www.njfc.webmaxstudi...age/page/4809065.htm . Be aware that you have to cut into the "forward firewall" in front of the spare a couple inches for clearence (the spare still fits fine), & relocate (find another?) radiator overflow tank.
Production is limited to making one when I make other molds/parts & currently I'm out of mat so it'll be a while before I build another. I just got one back from a "friend" that never paid. I've contacted two people that *said* they wanted one but they have not gotten back to me. First person to email or PM me gets it: $150 + $20 shipping - MUST be a POSTAL money order.
You can email me at ImThaDriver at yahoo.
Thanks,
~ Paul
aka "Tha Driver"

Remember 1/2 of the population is below average.

I have Archie's Warber hood.
http://www.v8archie.com/warberhood.htm
The only thing you need to do to install it is change the overflow tank cap to a flatter style or cut the vent off the stock one.
There is no cutting or modifying of the firewall so the trunk area with the spare tire stays sealed from the elements.
The area where the radiator sits is is designed to be in contact with the elements.

With the Warber hood the engine's cooling system works better and the nose of the car doesn't float at highway speeds. It also keeps the headlight covers down if you join the "century" club (exceed 100mph) or race the car on a race track.

Archie sells a kit to install on your own hood or you can buy a complete hood and have it painted to match your car.

------------------

Happiness isn't around the corner...
Happiness IS the corner.
ZZ4 Powered !!

[This message has been edited by Oreif (edited 09-08-2007).]

ok, are there any other styles? and what i'm really worried about is that i park my car outside overnight-is rain water going to get in there??

I have the vent that the driver makes and it is excellent. I LOVE IT! When it is raining the water just goes down the vent and ends up on the ground. My car is a daily driver and I haven't found any problems with it being in the rain. When you drive in the rain/snow some of it gets into the radiator and falls to the ground so the vent isn't much different. As long as most of the stuff under the hood is painted you shouldn't have any rust problems.

The only other styles i have seen were home made of modded ones from other cars.

[This message has been edited by Winkie (edited 09-08-2007).]

Rain just falls on the ground like when it goes through the radiator. Check my first link above most everything is discussed there. The vent does help with both cooling & keeping the headlights closed at speed & the frontend planted (eliminates floating).
~ Paul
aka "Tha Driver"

I checked today and... this is the oldest I've ever been.

The nicest one I've seen is Rockcrawl's design. It was on HER86GT.

I don't think the front scoop has to be particularly large to have the desired effect. The forward panel of the trunk is angled particularly to flow air under the car, and it continues to do so regardless.
So, the amount of air to re-direct is not all that much. You are probably capturing at most about 10% of the radiator flow. It's probably less unless you put in a really dramaticaly deep scoop.

I think Archie's design is probably optimum for volume and is not too dramatic in looks. If you were driving an all out racing design, you'd want to go way further than a hood scoop IMHO.

Here is mine. I plan on modding my other hood with my own design over the winter and will likely sell this one in the spring. It uses molded in Sunbird Turbo vents.





Arn

Click here http://i236.photobucket.com...aily1/hoodscoop1.jpg to see the one I got off of E Bay.

Nice quality. I have a lot of sanding to do.

John

One more with contrasting color. http://i236.photobucket.com...aily1/hoodscoop2.jpg

[This message has been edited by 1986GTV8 (edited 09-09-2007).]

You may want to try driven visions. They have a few different ones.

www.drivenvisions.com

Here are the ones I did. Rick

https://www.fiero.nl/forum/Forum1/HTML/066740.html

My hood vent openings are larger than most - I'd guess they pass more than 10% of the air coming thru the radiator. At idle, with the fan running, there's a lot of hot air coming out the vents. I'd expect more at speed due to extractor effect of low pressure air back from the nose.

Picture is here - http://img235.imageshack.us...5/5076/avent1pg0.jpg

Driven Visions deep vent cut to run from just forward of back edge of radiator to about two inches forward of front bulkhead w/ rolled edges molded in.

quote Originally posted by fojo: My hood vent openings are larger than most - I'd guess they pass more than 10% of the air coming thru the radiator. At idle, with the fan running, there's a lot of hot air coming out the vents. I'd expect more at speed due to extractor effect of low pressure air back from the nose. Picture is here - http://img235.imageshack.us...5/5076/avent1pg0.jpg

Likewise. I'd think mine would go close to 20% at speed; yours closer to 25 or 30%. I was *quite* suprised how much it blew when my fan came on - blew my hair back & that's just with the fan/without the low pressure area at the front of the hood of the moving car..
~ Paul
aka "Tha Driver"

Why do they sterilize needles for lethal injection?

I like Fie RO's vent too. It looks very much like it was designed for the car that way.

Here's mine, its a one-off someone i got the body parts from did. I did have to cut into the front compartment a wee bit to get the hood to clear, but it looks so sweeet..

on the ground


on the car

------------------

hi guys;
doing a hood a lot like these and wondered what you finally did with the overflow bottle
cant seem to find a spot that works for that one.
any ideas on what might work???

thanx clynt

anybody????????????

One thing I don't understand is the reason guys aren't venting to the wheel wells. You can easily cut through and put flaps on it or directional fins and vent to the wheel assemblies.

Arn

i think the answer to that is looks,looks and more looks.
but still where to put a bottle and what fits?
clynt

quote Originally posted by Arns85GT: One thing I don't understand is the reason guys aren't venting to the wheel wells. You can easily cut through and put flaps on it or directional fins and vent to the wheel assemblies. Arn

Venting to the wheelwells still keeps a lot of the air under the car, plus I don't want hot air flowing over my brake rotors. I *do* plan to also add some fender vents when I get back to work on my custom car. They will have duct work going through the spare tire area & out *behind* the plastic inner fenders (& through vents in the fenders).
~ Paul
aka "Tha Driver"

Headline: APATHY RUNS RAMPANT - Nobody cares.

I like the Looks of the Hood Vents, but I was wondering if the air off of the radator comes into the cabin? The air intakes are at the base of the windsheild.
Does one style work better than another?

------------------
Ernie

1988 Silver GT
One owner 47000 miles.
Soon to be a 3.4 DOHC powered.

quote Originally posted by Tha Driver: I have a hood vent for sale. Hand-laid hood vent of my own design. A friend saw mine, & said it was the "best looking hood vent" he'd ever seen on a Fiero, & I should pull a mold (so I did). Others have told me the same thing. Pics of one/other info can be seen in Scott Kimball's installation thread: https://www.fiero.nl/forum/Forum2/HTML/079950.html & at http://www.njfc.webmaxstudi...age/page/4809065.htm . Be aware that you have to cut into the "forward firewall" in front of the spare a couple inches for clearence (the spare still fits fine), & relocate (find another?) radiator overflow tank. Production is limited to making one when I make other molds/parts & currently I'm out of mat so it'll be a while before I build another. I just got one back from a "friend" that never paid. I've contacted two people that *said* they wanted one but they have not gotten back to me. First person to email or PM me gets it: $150 + $20 shipping - MUST be a POSTAL money order. You can email me at ImThaDriver at yahoo. Thanks, ~ Paul aka "Tha Driver" Remember 1/2 of the population is below average.

I recently installed one if these and the info, the instant replys to questions and the product are all
awsum

------------------



87 Fiero GT 5sp with Vortec L35 4300 Turbocharged V6
Bully Stage 2 clutch
Syclone intake manifold and engine management with Moates adapter and chip burner
Air/water intercooler and Devil's Own progressive water/alky injection
50lb injectors, 3 bar map sensor, Walboro fuel pump and Jabasco Intercooler pump
LM1 wideband on custom manifolds and 3" stainless exhaust system
T31/T04B S4 turbo with a Super T61 in the box
S10 caliper conversion.
Murphy's Constant Matter will be damaged in direct proportion to its value
Murphy's Law of Thermodynamics Things get worse under pressure.
Arthur C. Clarke "Any significantly advanced technology is indistinguishable from magic"

quote Originally posted by gascarracer: I like the Looks of the Hood Vents, but I was wondering if the air off of the radator comes into the cabin? The air intakes are at the base of the windsheild. Does one style work better than another?

Basicly the larger the hole the better the vent will work. I never noticed any hot air coming in on mine & I never use AC. I have heard of folks saying they had problems with hot air coming in, but I think they had much bigger vents. Mine may be trhe perfect size as my headlights have never flown up & my car is stable (no floating) at near top-end with the V6 (not sure how fast that is but I'm guessing ~120 to 130.
BTW I have one hood vent left FS & do not have the time to make more for a while if anyone wants it.
~ Paul
aka "Tha Driver"

Guy: "You look familiar - have we met before?"
Girl: "Jerk! I had you arrested for exposing yourself!"
Guy: "Well...you'll have to be more specific..."

quote Originally posted by Tha Driver: Venting to the wheelwells still keeps a lot of the air under the car, plus I don't want hot air flowing over my brake rotors. I *do* plan to also add some fender vents when I get back to work on my custom car. They will have duct work going through the spare tire area & out *behind* the plastic inner fenders (& through vents in the fenders). ~ Paul aka "Tha Driver" Headline: APATHY RUNS RAMPANT - Nobody cares.

I'd rather have the air dump into the wheel wells. the hottest radiator air is drastically colder than any brake rotor, and any air flow into the wheel wells will reduce the low pressure zone in there causing better aerodynamics. It certianly will not keep it under the car unless you filled your wheel wells with 18" solid disc chrome rims and another 3 inches of rubber that rubs on the fenders. the fronts of the wheel wells are significant low pressure zones at highway speed.