hey guys ive been a long time fiero lover and just got a hold of an 85GT last weekend.......im real exited....but one of the biggest problems is the door locks.......they were fine but the previous owner only had a BROKEN key to go with it.....i tried to have it recut but it didnt work...

so i got a new door lock kit from the car parts place(2 cylinders w/ new keys)

these are non power locks btw.......i already started on the driver side and removed the door panel and removed the catch arm from the stock cylinder lock.......so now its just the lock cylinder there and i cant get it to budge out so i can put the new one in.......

does anyone know if i can pop it right out and do a quik swap?.....or do i need to go further and remove the window motor too(hoping not).......from what i can see i cant really tell how its mounted or held in place........wondering if anyone can give any advice....i searched on this forum and a few others but came up empty....any help much appreciated

thanx

anthony

You might need to remove the outer door skin also to remove the lock cylinder. Here is a free bump for others to add their 2 cents.

quote Originally posted by avengador1: You might need to remove the outer door skin also to remove the lock cylinder. Here is a free bump for others to add their 2 cents.

oh man theres gotta be an easier way......

and i see the butt of the cly lock from the inside....just wondering if it will "turn " out of place and come out......otherwise i cant see exactly what is holding it......i see a metal plate behind it and the outer door panel....but it seems id have to removed the 2nd inner door panel and possibly the window motor to get to it?.....im gonna have to try at it some more....it seems hopeless but dont want to give up yet...hoping someone here has done this before and knows the propor routine

Stooooooop! Noooooo!
Dont remove the door skin its not neccesary. The ONLY thing you have to remove to get at it is the inner door trim panel (obviously).
I've changed out the locks in my 85 se and its really not that hard.
(This is all in the perspective of the PASSENGER SIDE door, reverse for the drivers side)
Roll the window up as far as it goes, it'll give you access to everything inside. (if you're feeling adventurous you can remove the window guide as well. Its a channeled piece that's right in the way of everything, just remove the top two bolts, and the bottom two bolts (SCRIBE YOUR NUTS!) rock the bottom towards the front of the door and pull down and away from the window. The window has a wheel that goes in the channel in the piece you removed, clean and grease it before you put it back)
Take the inner door panel off (two screws in the handle plate, one behind the fiero snap in thing, the other behind the end of the handle. 3 screws in the oh **** handle, one in the top behind a snap piece and two in the bottom) Just pry/pull the panel off, it comes off. CAREFUL though, the lock rod and release handle rod are still attached to it. Slide off the handle plate from the handle. Pry off the lock lever thing (fuzzy deal with red on it)
Set the panel aside
Take the "Lock rod retaining clip" off of the lock arm. If you look inside the door where the lock lives you'll see a long rod coming from the handle to the lock cylinder. Take the little clip off thats holding the rod to the lock arm. CATCH THE PIECE! Its tiny, and it likes to hide in the door skin.
Pull out the "Lock cylinder retaining clip" If you look to the left of the lock cylinder, right long the verticle piece the lock cylinder goes through, you'll see a little tab sticking up. Pry this tab to your left, it's a horseshoe shaped clip that pins the lock cylinder up against the support.
Once you have the lock cylinder out, swap the hardware over. It IS position sensitive, it makes a cross shaped outline with one of the tabs sticking out further than the other. It goes in only one way. If you have trouble with the lock arm and what way it goes, remember how it used to go, it should swing off to the lower left when in the door.
Put the new lock cylinder back in where the old one was, oriented correctly. If it wont push in all the way its because you have the wrong lock shield on it (little spring door, it sticks out too far and bottoms on the door skin, i just took mine off)
Slide the "lock cylinder retaining clip" back in, making sure to pin the lock cylinder in. If you dont think its in, push on the lock from the outside, it should be solid.
NOTE This part is a PAIN IN THE ASS it's supposed to be hard. Dont give up, just keep trying, it DOES go together like this
Put the lock rod back into the hole on the lock cylinder lever, put the clip back on it
Rattle your work around, push on the lock from the outside, pull on the rod (not hard though) it should be totally solid. Try the lock out, does it work? Good!
(if you removed the window guide, replace it at this time, its a hassle too but it goes on, just pop the window wheel in the guide, line up your scribe marks (you DID scribe them, right?) and tighten her up )
Put the door trim panel back on, slide the handle and lock rod through the hole in the side of the panel, hang the panel on the top of the door while you work
Slide the handle trim plate over the handle and make sure the lock rod sticks through it's hole
Slide the end of the lock lever button thing (red/black thing with fuzzy on the back) into the hole it goes it sliding along the rod, snap the end over the L on the end of the lock rod
Install all your snap connectors/pull the broken ones out of the door matrix and reinstall them
Screw in the handle trim plate
Screw in the oh **** handle
You're done

I've done this twice before, yes its a pain in the ass, but not too hard.


NOTE: You have to have smaller hands, or be willing to lose some skin, because the procedure with putting the lock cylinder retaining clip requires you being elbow deep in sharp stamp steel.

Good luck

[This message has been edited by InaneCathode (edited 08-24-2007).]

quote Originally posted by InaneCathode: Stooooooop! Noooooo! Dont remove the door skin its not neccesary. The ONLY thing you have to remove to get at it is the inner door trim panel (obviously). I've changed out the locks in my 85 se and its really not that hard. (This is all in the perspective of the PASSENGER SIDE door, reverse for the drivers side) Roll the window up as far as it goes, it'll give you access to everything inside. (if you're feeling adventurous you can remove the window guide as well. Its a channeled piece that's right in the way of everything, just remove the top two bolts, and the bottom two bolts (SCRIBE YOUR NUTS!) rock the bottom towards the front of the door and pull down and away from the window. The window has a wheel that goes in the channel in the piece you removed, clean and grease it before you put it back) Take the inner door panel off (two screws in the handle plate, one behind the fiero snap in thing, the other behind the end of the handle. 3 screws in the oh **** handle, one in the top behind a snap piece and two in the bottom) Just pry/pull the panel off, it comes off. CAREFUL though, the lock rod and release handle rod are still attached to it. Slide off the handle plate from the handle. Pry off the lock lever thing (fuzzy deal with red on it) Set the panel aside Take the "Lock rod retaining clip" off of the lock arm. If you look inside the door where the lock lives you'll see a long rod coming from the handle to the lock cylinder. Take the little clip off thats holding the rod to the lock arm. CATCH THE PIECE! Its tiny, and it likes to hide in the door skin. Pull out the "Lock cylinder retaining clip" If you look to the left of the lock cylinder, right long the verticle piece the lock cylinder goes through, you'll see a little tab sticking up. Pry this tab to your left, it's a horseshoe shaped clip that pins the lock cylinder up against the support. Once you have the lock cylinder out, swap the hardware over. It IS position sensitive, it makes a cross shaped outline with one of the tabs sticking out further than the other. It goes in only one way. If you have trouble with the lock arm and what way it goes, remember how it used to go, it should swing off to the lower left when in the door. Put the new lock cylinder back in where the old one was, oriented correctly. If it wont push in all the way its because you have the wrong lock shield on it (little spring door, it sticks out too far and bottoms on the door skin, i just took mine off) Slide the "lock cylinder retaining clip" back in, making sure to pin the lock cylinder in. If you dont think its in, push on the lock from the outside, it should be solid. NOTE This part is a PAIN IN THE ASS it's supposed to be hard. Dont give up, just keep trying, it DOES go together like this Put the lock rod back into the hole on the lock cylinder lever, put the clip back on it Rattle your work around, push on the lock from the outside, pull on the rod (not hard though) it should be totally solid. Try the lock out, does it work? Good! (if you removed the window guide, replace it at this time, its a hassle too but it goes on, just pop the window wheel in the guide, line up your scribe marks (you DID scribe them, right?) and tighten her up ) Put the door trim panel back on, slide the handle and lock rod through the hole in the side of the panel, hang the panel on the top of the door while you work Slide the handle trim plate over the handle and make sure the lock rod sticks through it's hole Slide the end of the lock lever button thing (red/black thing with fuzzy on the back) into the hole it goes it sliding along the rod, snap the end over the L on the end of the lock rod Install all your snap connectors/pull the broken ones out of the door matrix and reinstall them Screw in the handle trim plate Screw in the oh **** handle You're done I've done this twice before, yes its a pain in the ass, but not too hard. NOTE: You have to have smaller hands, or be willing to lose some skin, because the procedure with putting the lock cylinder retaining clip requires you being elbow deep in sharp stamp steel. Good luck

thank you for that great piece of info

but it scares the living hell out of me

the inner door panel i already had off.......and the clip and rod attached to the cylinder i already had off as well(driver side which i started on)


for the last 3 hours ive been try to slide that "horshoe" shaped thingy to the right to get it off but it wont budge.....ive tried a flat head under the cylinder itself to help it "unclamp" the cylinder.....no luck......my hands are bloody and bruised......and the horshoe thing i managed to swing down and get stuck and now i cant even really get at it no more....

i took the inner panel off the passenger side after reading ur post and it does look a LITLLE easier doing it that way......but not sure i want to keep going at it.....im about to give up...not something i normally do but this is murdering me......


the horshoe shaped thing u said u slid to the left on the passenger side by that small tab sticking out right?...the driver side wouldnt budge for anything and was just bending....

i basicly have a decent 85 red GT and have no way to lock it whatsoever....im afraid to go anywhere with this thing now and leave it unlocked...this blows....if u lived closer id pay you to swap these for me......

Here is some reading for you. The clip holds the lock to a bracket that is attached to the outer door skin, but you don't need to remove the skin if you can get the clip off.
https://www.fiero.nl/forum/A...020825-2-018665.html
https://www.fiero.nl/forum/A...020825-2-020000.html
https://www.fiero.nl/forum/A...070315-2-076921.html

Probably too late now, but I think you can take your VIN to a Pontiac dealer and get a new key (for your old locks).

quote Originally posted by avengador1: Here is some reading for you. The clip holds the lock to a bracket that is attached to the outer door skin, but you don't need to remove the skin if you can get the clip off. https://www.fiero.nl/forum/A...020825-2-018665.html https://www.fiero.nl/forum/A...020825-2-020000.html https://www.fiero.nl/forum/A...070315-2-076921.html

i appreciate the feedback........


and i wont be needing it anymore because i made some progress......right when i was about to give up earlier i took a shot at the passenger side horshoe clip and got it off in 10 seconds flat.....gripped it hard with a pair of long needlenose and forced it right off........for the driverside i had to do a bit of drilling but thru the metal mounting plate but was able to get that lock off too......

now my only problem is the 1 horshoe clip i lost in the door lol....and the driver side one is shot.......so what im gona do is use some 5 min epoxy and just epoxy the cylinders in place so they dont move and eventually fall out.....i hope it works.....the unlock/lock bar works well in place and opens with the key...and since i made some progress i have alot more motivation to finish it up........i appreciate all the input given here u guys were very helpful

[This message has been edited by ForceFedFlesh (edited 08-24-2007).]

Aw jesus dude why'd you go and destroy stuff :/ It wont work with the epoxy, after about a year (or a winter) it'll fracture and your lock will fall out.
I knew i should have posted this earlier, but mine was stuck too. All you do is grip the tang with a pair of needle nose pliers and pry against that and the support that the lock cylinder passes through. The clip is in TIGHT, you cant just pull it off or push it out, it needs to come out bit by bit with hard prying force.
As to the lost horseshoe clip, its sitting in the bottom of your door. Just bang on the door and it'll vibrate around, you'll hear it, just reach in and grab it out. What's gonna suck is if you DONT take it out, you'll hear that little bastard rattling around in the door until the day the car dies.
Synopsis:
Take your time
It's designed to come out, it WILL come out
Take your time
Epoxy will fail in short order
You'll totally absolutely screw yourself or someone else over if you ever need to take that apart again
Take your time

I was pulling for you too dude :/ i despise shade tree fixes, really do. Its what killed most of our cars and still does

quote Originally posted by InaneCathode: Aw jesus dude why'd you go and destroy stuff :/ It wont work with the epoxy, after about a year (or a winter) it'll fracture and your lock will fall out. I knew i should have posted this earlier, but mine was stuck too. All you do is grip the tang with a pair of needle nose pliers and pry against that and the support that the lock cylinder passes through. The clip is in TIGHT, you cant just pull it off or push it out, it needs to come out bit by bit with hard prying force. As to the lost horseshoe clip, its sitting in the bottom of your door. Just bang on the door and it'll vibrate around, you'll hear it, just reach in and grab it out. What's gonna suck is if you DONT take it out, you'll hear that little bastard rattling around in the door until the day the car dies. Synopsis: Take your time It's designed to come out, it WILL come out Take your time Epoxy will fail in short order You'll totally absolutely screw yourself or someone else over if you ever need to take that apart again Take your time I was pulling for you too dude :/ i despise shade tree fixes, really do. Its what killed most of our cars and still does

believe me man i hate destroying stuff......but also remember this car is 22 years old and not in the most IMMACULATE shape......and i had no choice.....i just want door locks so i can lock it and be able to actually drive it and not have to worry about some asss opening my doors and jacking my stuff and setting my interior on fire or so ya kno?...i need this car to get me to work right now i already swapped over insurance ect from my other beater/work car which is now unlegal

...the lost horseshoe clip didnt fall to the "bottom" of the inner door panel either....otherwise i wouldve grabbed it with my magnetic tool.....it fell behind the black series of metal attached to the inner door panel itself so i couldnt get it at ALL........and the driver side one i completly destroyed cuz it slid down and u couldnt even grab the damn "tang" anymore...so i had to drill into the mount bracket and force it out and it wasnt pretty.....and no ones getting screwed but me lol and after this im ready to do this again when the epoxy fails...taking the inner door panel off to reapply something to hold it wouldnt take long....5-10 min per panel....

as far as the epoxy i know it will eventually fail....and ill then try something even stronger on it just to hold it in place..im sure theres somthing way better i can use...

...but as of 30 min ago i now have FUNCTIONAL door locks =).....and they seem strong and hold well and dont work bad whatsoever....real glad its over....and as far as taking my time i worked it today from 11AM-630pm....came home at 10 and was working it till about a half hour ago....so about 10/11 hours for me to install them damn door locks....im just very relived right now

The reason our cars arent in immaculate shape is because of stuff like that :/
My luggage rack fell apart because someone couldnt be bothered with reaching one of the screws on the top side. My fan circuit failed because someone couldnt be bothered with diagnosing a bad relay. My drivers side door lock is bouncing around in the bottom of the door because someone couldnt be bothered with putting the horseshoe clip back in. (havent gotten to that side yet)

quote Originally posted by InaneCathode: The reason our cars arent in immaculate shape is because of stuff like that :/ My luggage rack fell apart because someone couldnt be bothered with reaching one of the screws on the top side. My fan circuit failed because someone couldnt be bothered with diagnosing a bad relay. My drivers side door lock is bouncing around in the bottom of the door because someone couldnt be bothered with putting the horseshoe clip back in. (havent gotten to that side yet)

yea well dude the door locks are the least of my concern...plus like i said sooner or later i will open the panels and secure the locks even better...maybe even weld them tight in place, for now they work perfectly(i can even reinstall the Horshoe clips down the road if i want).........and u should see the ghetto asss paint job that is on my car.......the previous owner had it repainted by a bunch of schmucks......and theres flaws all over the damn thing....overspray, bad molding tape offs evrywhere, lotta white residue on the inner black parts/outer moldings, door jambs, single stage paint used........if u saw it in person up close it would make u sad....and i already cleaned and spot painted alot of areas nice and new again.........the only clean decent thing about it overall is the interior(- the seats) and engine...(75k on the clock) and the fact that evrything still works......so im trying my best little by little to make it show and street worthy....i have so much work and other projects to tend to i have little time for it.....

i definitly appreciate ur post and feedback tho u are a true Fiero lover defending the car from my half ass-ish work lol....im the same way and believe me if it was in showroom/show quality condition i wouldnt have rigged those locks like i did....its just a temp. fix for now so i can get to work this week and lock the doors so no young punk kids REALLY destroy the damn thing

FFF