i am going to have my car painted. however i want to do as much as the prep work as possible so i can lower the price and make sure that i get a good paint job. i have searched on here and the internet and i just have some questions.

1. What are methods of removing all of the old paint to get to the base coat? (after my searches i have learned of wet sanding, blasting, chemicals, etc.) so should you dry sand to the base coat or wet sand it. then what "grit" or roughness should u use?

2. how hard is it to fill in small chips and stuff (you can see the fibers on the spots).

3. what should i use to fill them in? (epoxy or is there something else?)

4. how do you fix those...

5. what do you need in order to prime a car?

6. should i continue on or should i just remove the paint and fill in the holes (make the car smooth) and then let the "pro's" at it?

The first thing to remember is that every little irregularity will be amplified with a new paint job.

The second thing to remember, is, that although you've taken remarkably good care of the car, the paint is full of atmospheric polutants and chemicals that can "fish eye" for the paint installer.

So, Do you need to remove all the paint? - no.

Do you need to sand the living daylights out of it - yes.

First thing is to clean it.
Second thing is to get wet-dry emery paper.

You'll want an orbital sander and you will want a spray bottle with filtered or distilled water. Don't trust your local tap water. The minerals in it can play havoc.

Start with 400 grit. Some guys will say more coarse, but you'll regret it because of the thousands of score marks you'll have to sand out. Spray, sand, wipe with a towel. Spray, sand, wipe with a towel. Spray, sand, wipe with a towel. You get the idea.

If it is a first class shop, you'll want to remove all your trim. Not strictly necessary if the paint is same colour, but a way better job.

Get it sanded at 400 then move up to 600 and do it again. Now you go looking for flaws. You'll want to be prepared with auto body glaze, or SMC Panel adhesive, to repair small blemishes or big ol' bemishes and cracks.

When you are satisfied the piece is as smooth as a baby's bum, looks smooth under reflected light, looks smooth in hard sunlight, and feels smooth to the touch, you are ready to prime. You then use a tack cloth before you prime. From there, you will need a good grade primer, (grey works for me) and then hand wet-sand the primer with 600 until it is smooth as a baby's bum, etc. and prime again, and wet sand again.

Then you take it to the painter.

Hope this helps. BTW, it is a slow process.

Arn

Arn

Fiero Painting Prep Tips for those preping the car for painting
I had a car painted a Earl Sheib and they did a great job,I chose a nice Dodge viper red.Maco is also a good choice.They both should prep the car for you, thats sanding and primering.But I wanted to make sure it was done right so I sanded the car my self (I didn't primer though).I wanted to make sure the paint wasn't going to peel off.Get your car painted on sale because Maco charges about $550 when it's not on sale.They also charge a little extra for any body work,like cracked paint in the front nose or rear bumper and Im not talking about cracked plastic, just the paint.These hair line cracks will show up again after the car is painted so be sure to fill them your self or have them fill them, includeing any pits you may have (be sure to use the correct bondo,I think it's a flexible plastic.)As for sanding,I would do one piece at a time,(fender,hood,door) unless your energentic and want to do the whole thing in one day.Start by washing the car this will remove surface grit and will help prevent scratches.Buy some wet and dry sand paper (not too course and not too fine you want to avoid scratches) Have a bucket of soapy water(this will help prevent scratches) and a sponge handy,Cut the sand paper (or tear) into squars. Now rub two piece together to break the surface tension (this will reduce scratches, that can show up later)Dip in you bucket of soapy water and start sanding (by hand), the surface should be dull, your Not removeing the paint completely, just dulling the surface and be carefull all the body parts are plastic so dont use a sanding block because you could shave off a corner. Pay close attention to detail like nooks and cranies (the edge of the hood and were the fenders fold over the top and trunk area.) Rinse your sand paper often and hose off the paint residue,this will greately reduce scratches.When your finished wash the car again and you will may see some shiney spots that you missed sand those.You will probubly end up washing the car at least 3 times or more,you can also use an air hose to blow the dust off the car.Make sure you sand all the shiney spots because this will prevent what is called Fish Eye.Thats were you get a small circle due to the paint being unable to cling to the shiney area.If you want it done right do one to two body pieces a day (removal is not necessary).When you take the car in you will have your choice of paints, includeing metal flake or Peral or both. The metal flake and Peral cost extra and so does painting the door jams, but the door jams can be painted by you prior to painting the car.Be sure to get the Clear Coat and UV protection.They also charge extra to sand and repair pealing paint (Total coast Varries, I paid $280).Be sure to remove any Tar around the lower body panels.After all this is done you end up with a $2,000 paint job
I wouldn't worrie about primer,they'll do that.
Try here:
http://www.autobody101.com/

don't do the door jambs first, the overspray from the paint job will ruin whatever you do. Wait and do it after, just tape off your paint real good!

thanks for the tips. my deadline is october 20th to have the car painted.

Get up with RogerGarrison and scan the forum for other painting/sanding threads. It's a long and tedious process but, if you take your time and do things right the first time, you won't be constantly looking and the paint and wanting to shoot it again in a couple of months.

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Whade' "The Duck Formerly Known As Wade" Duck
'87 GT Auto
'88 Ferrario
'84 Indy

Every single painter has their own methods. Mines been posted around before. Just brushing over a few points. Its a falacy that old paint has to be completely removed. Old 20 year old paint that is not cracked, peeling or otherwise defective is just fine to paint over. If its been done a few times, best to remove all that by sanding. DONT use paint stripper on a Fiero anywhere. I sand just prior to painting with no finer than 400. Wet sanding prior to paint really only saves on sandpaper. It makes the job no better. To me it adds work because when its wet you cant see places you miss or defects and it cakes up inside places like seams where you cant see it. Ask who is going to paint it what kind of primer they want you to use. For people that do their own prep, I wont paint over any primer unless its laquer or catalyzed (and Im rethinking even that due to a Corvette job I recently did). My personal preference is if you do your own prep, i also want to primer it myself. They can then sand that themself if they want. I wont guarantee any work or material I dont do. Good luck.

ok well then ya i'll probably go and talk to the shop that it will be painted at and see what they require.

thanks for all of the feedback ya'll