just installed new 2.8 but the car still does the same thing as before, runs good till it gets hot and then chugs when coming to a stop and dies. im starting to wonder since the vacum regaltor vavle which is connected to the egr, throttle body and fuel tank is the culprit. But now after installing new engine, the temp gage is hitting redline, and the only way i can get going again after a stall is to rev the engine real high a couple of times(to blow out cobwebs), and then it takes off again, which leads me to the egr again. also wondering since this remanufactured engine has been milled, bored, etc....if the prom needs to be recoded.any help is greatly appreciated...thanks, scott

A similar problem on an old 2.5 w/ automatic was the Torque converter clutch. When I came to a stop the engine just kind of wound down and quit running when I came to a stop. I just unplugged it but I found this writeup on fixing the problem. Running with it unplugged will decrease your gas mileage.

If that doesn't do it, then I suggest coils then check the fuel pump

ill try that too, but the vacum regulator valve was blocked off and bypassed when i got the car. so we unblocked it and hooked it back the way its supposed to be, we checked that the egr was working good, and the ran a fuel pressure check( which was around 40 psi), which has me wondeing abought the sensors, the one closest to the bottom of the egr was melted from sitting to close to a leaky exhaust manifold (oil pressure sending?), but im looking at that vacum regulator vs. the sensors. But i will check the tcc while im there to eliminate all possibilities......thnx, scott

quote Originally posted by hemih8r: the one closest to the bottom of the egr was melted from sitting to close to a leaky exhaust manifold (oil pressure sending?),

The TCC solenoid connector is below the EGR on the side of the transmission. Is that the sensor you are talking about?

Is the exhaust/ cat cnvtr open....

Did you check for any engine codes yet, that may give us an extra hint to help you with.
https://www.fiero.nl/cgi-bin/main.cgi?ECMCodes

Is this an atuomatic and is the problem happening in drive at stop lights?

Have you burped the coolant system yet?

Does the engine idle normal in park or neutral without an elevated idle?

Edit,,,, Double check your O2 sensor wire. Fiero gas gauges are known for incorrect reradings, have you plenty of gas?

[This message has been edited by jetman (edited 07-20-2007).]

How is the cooling system in the car ?
As others have stated, looking at the engine trouble codes may tell what is up. Does the service engine light come on?
From your description, the sensor below the EGR valve would be the Dash Temp. gauge sensor. The connector gets heated by the exhaust and then crumbles. Rodney has a connector for repairing. Easy to replace, as no soldering required.

Some items on the cooling system that you could check,
Air in cooling system, an air pocket will cause overheating, check coolant level.
Are the radiator caps new, bad seals can cause air leaks.
Is the thermostat installed, try removing to test if it is bad.
Check the coolant pipes, sometimes the the pipes get crushed, blocking coolant flow.
Are the cooling hoses new ? , a old hose could be collapsing.
Did you install a new water pump ?, Is it the correct pump ? (flow direction for the Fiero)
Does the cooling fan run ?, Try turning on the AC, the fan should run.
Did you replace the fan temp. switch on the engine, it controls the temp. that the fan turns on.

How was the timing set ?, were the A B terminals shorted on the ODBI port when setting timing ?
Just some of the items I would be checking if the car was overheating.

great!! thanks guys for all your help and input. Today i bought a new thermostat(4.99) and replaced that as it was one of the cheapest to eliminate, and drove it all over town and I didnt overheat....YAY!!!! But..... Ive still got erratic idle, in Park, Im running around 1k, but then drops to 750, then down to 500, then jumps back to 1k. Im now looking at the sensors, especially idle air control (IAC). Also, The ECM keeps throwing a EGR error code out, still wondering if that isnt due to the EGR vacum regulator(solenoid), found one at The Fierostore, now saving pennies to buy.

Now, I may have a bigger problem. This is a remanufactured 2.8, bigger bore, cam, etc..., Would the ECM, be causing the problem? And if so, Who does reprograms on ECM's and how much? Also, what should be the correct setting for the IAC, or is the another way of setting or tunning the IAC. Or is all this done by the ECM?

I'm betting its related to the EGR solenoid. Either the vacuum to or from it or the solenoid itself. The EGR solenoid should be at 0% duty cycle at idle. If the solenoid lets any vacuum reach the EGR valve then you will get exhaust gases added to your idle air and cause problems.

The easiest way to see what the IAC is doing is to build or buy an ALDL cable and then download the free Winaldl software. The least cost route is an old laptop with a serial port. For the serial port you can build an ALDL cable for $10 in Radio Shack parts using this website: http://couleefiero.tripod.com/ALDL.htm and for a laptop with only a USB port get the more expensive ALDL cable at http://www.aldlcable.com/ . Also, forum members have been known to sell them in the mall (both types). The software comes from http://winaldl.joby.se/ and is free. You hook the cable to the PC and to the ALDL port behind the cigarette lighter panel. The software allows you to watch each sensor that reports to the ECM like the IAC motor. An IAC count between 1-50 is the range with 25-30 being the target.

Oh, forgot, Darth Fiero burns eproms. He is a member here so shoot him a PM for more info.

Great! thnks! I knew I read of someone who did that but couldnt find the thread in archives...otherwise my baby is starting to finally come around, its been like driving a new car, except for when it dies at the bussiest intersection in Des Moines...lmao