So I've tried the spray paint method, the $50 paint job method..... it's all too time consuming and just a pain in the butt.

I want to do it right.

I want to know what I need to it with an actual spray gun.

I know I need a compressor, an air hose, and a spray gun.... so besides the obvious tape, newspaper, and paint and ventilation....
What else do I need?

Also, any links to any good 'how to' info would be great. Thanks!

quote Originally posted by FieroFanaticus2: ....... newspaper..........

Don't use newspaper for masking off your car. The paper is made up of little fibers and when you blow air around while spraying the fibers come loose and settle on your fresh paint and create little bumps all over. Always use masking paper made for spray painting. Newsprint also bleeds when wet and may leave behind some newsprint ink on the parts you are covering. Masking paper is waterproof.

Where in Wisconsin are you? If you are somewhat close to New Berlin/Waukesha, I can offer some help if you need anything. As for the links, there are a bunch of threads that give tips on spraying and prepping the car and you're best off doing a search. If you can't find what you are looking for, let us know and we'll answer your questions.

Mark

A good resperator to keep you upright and breathing, latex gloves, and some kind of low-lint overalls...tyvek works good.
An oil/moisture separator in the air line to minimize fish eye and water problems.
Lots of hose because you don't want the compressor in the same room stirring up dust and sucking in the vapors/airborn paint. Drain the condensation from the compressor before and during your paint job.
Mixing jar, strainers, stirring sticks, cheap laquer thinner for cleaning things up, some way to measure liquid volume, tack cloth, prep-all degreaser/wax remover, low lint rags, paper towels, patience & talent!

For Urethane base coat / clear coat like what is originally on the Fiero.....Sounds like the first thing you need is to strip (by sanding) and prep the car if you've tried the spray can and $50 methods. Wash the car with dish soap and then wipe it down with prep-all before you start sanding. This keeps from sanding any wax or grease into the finish to prevent reactions.

Then do any bodywork required with fiberglass and body filler and fix minor flaws like filling small nicks and scratches with spot putty.

Then a good primer and more wet sanding with a block to make it smooth, flat, and make the paint stick. Spend a lot of time on this and pay attention to details here. It's easier to fix problems in primer then it is to fix them once it's painted. Ask your local paint shop what grit paper they suggest for sanding the primer...I use 320 to rough it and 400 to finish but that's me.

Then a sealer to keep all the nasty stuff from reacting with your paint.

A light sanding and you're ready to paint. (400 grit wet sand)

tack cloth everything 2 or 3 times.

1st coat of color is just a light coat mixed per instructions on the can to get the paint to stick. It doesn't need to completely cover.

tack cloth twice.

2nd coat of color is mixed per instructions on the can and put on a nice medium-heavy coat to build material.

tack cloth twice.

3rd coat of color should be mixed a little hot (65% basemaker to 35% color) to draw the layers of paint together.

tack cloth twice.

Now you're ready for the clear coat....1st a light coat just like the paint, and don't forget the activator.

2nd and 3rd are medium heavy coats to build material. Don't get impatient....wait for the proper flash time before the next coat.

Last coat of clear mix a little basemaker into the clear...about 10% to draw all the layers together and make it all lay out nice and smooth.

I suggest Dupont products although they're kind of pricey. Get some practice with the paint gun before you go wasting this expensive stuff. Try some cheap enamel on your beater car or something. Learn the fine line between enough (smooth glossy finish) and too much (runs and sags). It's pretty obvious when you don't put enough paint on because you end up with a dry/rough texture. Make sure the edges of your masking tape are stuck down tightly, blow off the car with filtered compressed air a couple of times before you start, and if you get something in the paint, .leave it alone! A bit of dust can be lightly sanded out and buffed after it's cured but a big divot in the finish can't easily be fixed. You can lightly sand out any dust nubs between color coats but don't even think of fixing anything in the clear.

I'm sure I've missed a few things and others will disagree with me but this process gave me a professional quality paint job on my black SE. This ilistrates how much effort goes into a quality paint job.

Don

yeah, sounds like a lot of work, but worth the effort to learn it.

I've no problem doing body work and stuff... it's kind of relaxing for me, but don't know anybody local who does paint, and don't feel like taking it to someone for it. I like knowing it's my work that's been put into the car. I have a lot of patience, and pick things up pretty quickly, and lots of spare panels to practice on

I just want to learn as much as I can before I go start buying equipment for it.

Look for some books on the subject. I have an earlier version of this one:

http://www.motorbooks.com/S...uctDetails_10629.ncm

A pretty good place to start. About $15 plus postage from Amazon.

Okay, let me start this off by saying that I just went through the whole painting experience. It started with me getting a quote for $1,350 to do the entire job. But because this is my project car, and I wanted to do all the work to it, and I'm a cheep ass to boot, I decided to do it all myself. In the end, it took about a month of time out of my life, cost about $800, and came out poorly. My real advice is, unless you expect that car painting is a skill that you are going to use multiple time (five or more), take it to a professional.

-Trent

well, my family doesn't have much money, and we buy cheap cars that need paint and only keep them for a few years.... so, it's something I think will come in handy over the next 20-30 years or so.

You asked for it....

To get list.
Everything you said above:

Compressor
Air hose
HVLP spray gun (HVLP = High Volume Low Pressure) that’s kinda important

You'll also need:

Pressure regulator (for your compressor)
Lots and lots of sand paper
Laquer thinner
Wax and Silicone remover
Primer (+ hardened if necessary)
Paint (+ hardened if necessary)
Clear coat
Buffer
Lots and lots of beer

Okay, do you have a garage, or access to a friends?? That, in my opinion, is the best place for a do-it-yourself paint job. Once you have that nailed down, move everything that isn’t screwed to the floor, out. Give yourself as much room as you possibly can (that was my first mistake BTW).

Second, use drop cloths on any walls, and floors that you don’t want any paint on. The ceiling shouldn’t be that big a deal. On a side note, don’t use the cheep drop cloths (my second mistake FYI), they are thinner, and any tiny gust of wind will blow them all over the place, and the first time you trip on it, or worse, it gets in you paint... lets just say it will make you a little on the upset side.

Third is the disassembly. Take off anything that is easily accessible. Door handles are always a good one, accessible moldings, rear view mirrors, etc etc.

Fourth, the sanding. I suggest that you do this out side the garage, do what ever you can to keep that room as clean as possible. The sanding is the part of the project that seems like it never... ever... ends... and quite possibly is the most difficult part of the sanding is learning when is an appropriate time to stop. Do keep in mind that if you take too much material off of an individual spot, it will stick out as soon as you get a gloss coat of paint on.
Depending on what kind of surface you are painting to, depends on what kind of sand paper you use.
If there is any “crazing” (small cracks that go through the paint) then you should sand it all the way out, and if you don’t, it won’t take long before the crazing continues its way through the fresh paint. To get rid of that, I’d probably use a 60 grit, to get about halfway through, then finish it off with a 100.
If there are any places that a clear coat has been flaked away, you’ll have to “feather” that into the paint until it is completely smooth. I suggest a 200 grit, anything rougher, and the clear coat will chip instead of sand and you will just make it worse.
Those are the biggest things that really need to be sanded. Beyond that, all you really need to do is make sure that any hint of glossiness is gone, the primer will not stick to glossy sections. To do this use, believe it or not, a scotch bright. I didn’t believe it when I heard it, but it works masterfully. You didn’t say this is a Fiero that you are working on, but I’m assuming that it is, so make sure that you get into the engraved “Pontiac” emblems on the driver side head light, and on the rear bumper. Also, if there are any stickers on the car, remove them. It really isn’t worth trying to mask them off, it just comes out looking like poo.

Then you are ready for your primer supplies. I ended up using a “Cross Fire” primer, it had a hardener, and the whole nine yards. If you are intending on having this job last only a few years, I would recommend against that. It shortens the amount of time you have to get the primer out of the spray gun and on to the car, before it starts to set and destroys your gun (I ended up throwing out both my guns on this project... oops). Before you prime, make sure to use a “wax and silicon remover” that also will help to make sure that your primer sticks well. Once over your car one more time to make sure that you didn’t miss anything, and begin.

As for spraying technique... it’s a little complicated to really communicate over the written word. If you really want, I’ll try, but I recommend that you go and talk to a body shop and ask to sit in on a painting session. That experience will speak volumes. If they won’t let you, ask for a verbal explanation. It seems that those people are generally more than willing to boost their own egos by explaining exactly how much more they know on the subject than you do, and play off that, you’ll get better information.

The primer generally needs two or three coats. In between coats, use 180 grit sand paper just to take off the edges.

Once you have your primer on, go to wherever you got you primer, and get a “painters guide”. Near as I can tell it’s just a can of spray paint, but it might have some special quality to it that I just didn’t see. Take that, ans very, very lightly spray it all over the car. Don’t feel like you should get it to cover the entire car, but make sure that there isn’t a place that more than two or three inches from the guide. Once that is done, you have to sand the car again... and you have to sand it until alllllllllllll the painters guide is gone. Here’s the kicker, you have to do it with a 400 grit sand paper. I’m not sure if what I did was kosher or not, but I used a 100 grit, and just lightly brushed over most of the car like three or four times before I used the 400 grit, and that seemed to workout pretty well. Don’t worry about small places that you went through the primer with, it’s technically better to make sure the entire car is primed, but I was told that the small spots you generally end up with aren’t a big enough deal to worry about.

When that is all done. Clean it again, and get ready to paint. The paint is going to be much more forgiving than the primer was, but on the flip side, if you mess up, you don’t really have the luxury of simply sanding it smooth, so be careful. Put two coats of paint, with a light 400 grit sanding and cleaning in between coats, then if spots are missed, use a touch up gun to finish. Then put on three layers of clear coat, same gig as above, light 400 grit sanding and cleaning between coats.

Now you’re almost finished. Walk around the car, and find all the spots that got dirt in it, if you are really, really lucky there won’t be any, but don’t bet on it. Sand all those spots out with a 1500 grit sand paper (and yes, that’s exactly how many zeros I meant to put there), don’t go through your clear coat, and if you think you might, stop, it’s not worth it. Once you get them all, buff the sanding marks out with your buffer.

Last step, stand back and say to yourself “Holy crap, that was a lot of work”, but you’ll be hapy with the results.


-Trent

P.S. Oh and BTW, I am an amateur of amateurs, Don above put some steps in that I did not do, that’s probably because I ended up skipping a step or two/making my life more difficult than it really needed to be. Probably better judgement on you part to add the steps he mentioned, and that I left out.

-Trent

[This message has been edited by Trent_Illician (edited 07-12-2007).]

Pretty much what every else has said. Ill just throw my few cents worth in. Real masking paper is only like $10-12 a roll, enough to do a dozen cars...18" is my preferred. Every brand of paint has its own mixture percentages, follow the instructions for what you buy closely...its critical. I dont tack basecolors final coat, especially metallics because some colors (especially silvers and golds) MAY smear the metallic particals and you wont see the streaks until you clear it...ruined job. I prefer NOT to wet sand anything prior to paint. Ive seen water stay trapped in a panel for a week or more and come out only on your clearcoat. Too me, its far easier to see what your sanding dry anyway, you just use more sandpaper (cheap, and you can use cheaper sandpaper too). Do your painting early in the day before dust is stirred up and bugs are out. Dont try to do it at nite. I really like to wait for a rainy day for an all over paint job myself if possible.

Foremost...remember any advice for painting may or may not conflict with what others tell you...like a lot of things, every painter has their own preferrences. I have rarely seen any 2 body or paint guys do things 100% alike.

Thanks for the info guys. What I'm going to do for right now then is just get a book on it, maybe a video too if I can find one. Then Keep my eyes open on ebay for the equipment. I'll probably get the compressor first, since that will come in handy for other things as well and I saw a 3hp one for less than $200 shipped with a 6 gallon tank. Then get the guns needed and so on. I'm definately not going to rush into it, want to take my time and feel confident about what I'm doing before I do it so I'm not always running back to the book or to the video to make sure I'm doing things right as I'm doing it. I've got some hoods and decklids in the rafters of the garage to practice on.... maybe i'll resurrect the hood that I put a scoop into over this last winter. I was thinking a decent set up would cost about $1000 for everything to start with... but knowledge lasts a lifetime.

I know of a good gun for you to get. Its called the Sharpe Finex and its fairly cheap but has real good quality. I have about a dozen of them and they are wonderful. They can be bought for less than $100. If you are looking for something to practice on go to homedepot and buy some cheap sheetmetal panels. Practice makes perfect.

When you buy your gun, read its CFM rating. Make sure the compressor you get puts out at least that or you will be stopping in the middle of panels while it plays catch up. Im guessing the 3hp is not even close to enough. My HVLP guns take about 10-13 cfm, and my 7 hp, 80 gal 17 cfm is barely good enough. If you use a regular old style siphon gun, 3hp one may be good enough.

[QUOTE]Originally posted by FieroFanaticus2:

So I've tried the spray paint method, the $50 paint job method..... it's all too time consuming and just a pain in the butt.
QUOTE]

Well, doing it right is definatly the way to go. But it will be at least as time consuming and more expensive as the can method. Some things are best left to professionals if you want a professional outcome. Not saying not to try it, just a thought.

I've had great success painting my Fiero with Dupli-Color Enamel spray paint. I've been painting in stages - hood - deck lid - door - etc. I had a lot of fading and scratches on my car - lots of sanding. Then I discovered "buildable" primer - works great.

If anyone chooses to go with the spray can method - pay close attention to cracks and scratches - for the bigger scratches - "Bondo" makes a nice one tube application - no mixing filler - works great!

Pay close attention to the paint window - you can apply as many coats as you want in 10 minute intervals - after an hour - you need to wait 7 to 10 days to add another coat(s).

Also - pay close attention to the tempature and humidity - read the can - and for once - follow their recommendation.

Have plenty of sandpaper handy - 1000 - 1500 - and 2000 grit - in that order - after the 2000 grit - use turtle wax rubbing compound - then use turtle wax polishing compound.

Do not wash or wax your car for 30 days!

Dupli-Color says that you do not need to sand after application - if you don't sand - you will have orange peel - I opted to sand - and my finish turned out like glass!

Also found that using a razor to scrape off the runs and high points saves a lot of time - be careful using the razor - but once you get the hang of it - you could almost skip the sandpaper all together.

Hope this helps us cheapskates and die hard do it yourselfers. Let me know if you need anymore advice!

------------------
1986 Fiero GT - 4 Speed

quote Do not wash or wax your car for 30 days!

That reminds me. I took off the “Fiero” sticker on the lip of my trunk when I painted, and I wanted to know when it was a good idea to put the replacement back on.

-Trent

[This message has been edited by Trent_Illician (edited 07-13-2007).]

After reading what I wrote and realizing I was half asleep there are several important things I missed that will help. I clean my garage and drop-cloth everything that I don't want covered in paint dust. I put furnace filters on the 2 windows to filter the incomming air and use a junk box fan on the man door to suck the fumes and paint dust out. I cut cardboard to block off around the fan in the door opening so that the fresh air drawn into the garage comes through the filters in the windows. You don't want a breeze, just gently move the air through the garage to vent out the dust and fumes.
Before I start painting I wet down the garage floor with the garden hose ..... enough to keep down the dust but not enough to create splashing puddles. You want to put your air line filter/separator as close to the spray gun as practical. When your done with all the painting get the hell out of there and leave it alone. Nothing worse than hosing it up by trying to fix something thats not that noticable or stirring up dust that can get in the clear coat. Give it an hour or so to dry before you bask in the glory of your sparkling new paint job.
I don't mean to sound like a broken record but practice makes a big difference and patience is the key to success. Paying attention to details BEFORE you paint will render the best results. Try painting your buddy's daily beater with some cheap paint before you attempt to paint your masterpiece. It will help you with keeping the gun at the right distance and speed and will teach you what problem areas to look for.

Good luck,
Don

Turns out it's going to be a little while before I can get started on my painting endeavers. I have NO health or dental insurance and somehow managed to break a tooth in half eatting breadsticks from pizza hut last night. Going to need a root canal and a crown if I don't want a gapping hole in my mouth. I still have all my teethers and would like to keep it that way.... but might just end up getting it yanked if restoring the broken one is going to cost too much.

But, I'm going to take a look around on ebay for equipment and will post my findings here before I purchase, I've seen some decent guns and stuff on there, but really don't know what I'm looking for yet and would like some reassurance before I purchase.... just to make sure I don't run into any nasty surprises.

From what's been said in this thread, I'm thinking I should focus on a gun first..... then follow with an air compressor and not the other way around. That way I can make sure I get an air compressor that can power the gun.

So realistically..... with shopping on ebay and getting decent equipment.... can this be done for around $1000? I'm not figuring paint into the cost since I'll probably buy some cheap stuff to practice with from a seller on ebay who's selling it for about $60 a gallon. The same seller sells the hardner, clear coat, and primer too, as well as guns and regulators.... pretty much everything that's needed but not all at the price I can get from other sellers.

DupliColor makes a new spray ready paint... Seen it at the local auto stores. Only $20 a quart. If anything, it would make a good practice paint.
Plus... I'm really curious as to how the end result looks like.

I've heard that there is a good low cost HVLP paint gun that you can get from Harbor Freight. Is this true?

Right now I'm in the process of sanding my car to prepare it for paint. Been closely following this thread.

------------------
87 coupe resoration project.

quote Originally posted by FieroFanaticus2: From what's been said in this thread, I'm thinking I should focus on a gun first..... then follow with an air compressor and not the other way around. That way I can make sure I get an air compressor that can power the gun.

Realistically, it shouldn’t matter in the least. Every paint gun I’ve ever seen has had the exact same air hose connector. If you were to get your compressor first, you’ll be able to use it for everything else before you are ready to paint. I remember when I moved out of my parents house, I didn’t know how I was going to survive with their compressor. You’ll find that it is useful for a lot more than just painting.

quote Originally posted by nmw75: I've heard that there is a good low cost HVLP paint gun that you can get from Harbor Freight. Is this true?

It’s funny, I had just heard that exact same rumor not half an hour before I came to check the forum. So, check this out.

http://search.harborfreight...arch.do?keyword=HVLP


-Trent

But what is a good one?
All I have right now is a siphen gun that refuses to give a steady spray.

quote Originally posted by Trent_Illician: It’s funny, I had just heard that exact same rumor not half an hour before I came to check the forum. So, check this out. http://search.harborfreight...arch.do?keyword=HVLP -Trent

And what about the compressor HP and Tank Size? One site I was looking said 3hp will power the gun... while someone here says it would just barely power it. I certainly don't want to be stopping halfway through panels waiting for the compressor to catch up. Is there a certain storage amount I should be looking for... The one one I was looking at was 6 gallon. It's not for sale anymore on ebay, but the price was right on it.

Edit -

Like this gun here..... http://cgi.ebay.com/NEW-HVL...QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

Comes with the gauge. Says a 2-3HP compressor would work just fine.

[This message has been edited by FieroFanaticus2 (edited 07-13-2007).]

quote Originally posted by FieroFanaticus2: And what about the compressor HP and Tank Size? One site I was looking said 3hp will power the gun... while someone here says it would just barely power it. I certainly don't want to be stopping halfway through panels waiting for the compressor to catch up. Is there a certain storage amount I should be looking for... The one one I was looking at was 6 gallon. It's not for sale anymore on ebay, but the price was right on it. Edit - Like this gun here..... http://cgi.ebay.com/NEW-HVL...QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem Comes with the gauge. Says a 2-3HP compressor would work just fine.

Just need to make sure that the compressor can meet the CFM rating of the gun...
I bought a 2 HP compressor with a 26 gallon tank. I dont think I'd be able to shoot a complete car but I shouldnt have a problem doing my panel off paint job.

The CFM rating is not necessarily comparative to the hp of the compressor motor. MOST 2-3 hp compressors are rated around 5-7 cfm. I have 2 of the guns in your link and they work fine with my hp and tank size. If you read all the specs though (although it does say 2-3 hp) , the cfm rating for that gun is 14.5. You will be lucky to get just a hood done without stopping to wait for air. also air pressure ratings are decieving. You can get one of those cig liter compressors to put out 100 pnds pressure, but lucky if you can get 1/4 of one CFM.

What about something like this....

http://www.harborfreight.co...taf?Itemnumber=91772

Electric. Possible to bypass the compressor all together?

Painters prep is a big thing to be paranoid about. if you even think you touched the car, go over it again with painters prep. The stuff is cheap and save you heartache after you take off the respirator and admire your work only to see 5 fingerprints starting to fish eye because you touched your hair and then accidentally touched the car.

It's far easier to be paranoid about clean painting surfaces than it is to fix it later. A few box fans with furnace air filters works great for low CFM air flow out, cut holes in the pain tent and ducttape furnace filters on for air inlets.

Oh, wet down the floor as well. then paint cleanup is simple as sweeping when everything dries. wet floors also do not kick up dust that will annoy you for a few years when you see that speck in the paint every time you wax.

oh! one thing nobody talked about. Shoot solid colors not metallics or perals or anything that is harder than a solid color. I have painted 4 cars in my life and I still refuse to shoot a metallic silver as it's damned hard to keep the paint stirred up short of shaking the heck out of the gun whenever you stop spraying, and you CANT stop in the middle of a panel even for a few seconds, you HAVE to spray the whole thing in one run or it will not look right.

So stay away from the siren song of the metallics and other pretty colors until you get good. Oh and there is not such thing as too much light when you paint. put enough lights in there to make your eyes hurt. guys that shoot pain in their garage with the single 100 watt bulb above the car do not get good paint jobs. get from 4 to 6, 4 foot 2 bulb flouresent shop lights up. you want lots of light everywhere you are shooting paint.

One last thing... To get the show quality shine. rubbing comound the car, polishing compound the car. Let the paint cure the time needed before waxing. Dont wax it yet, go get some good 3m hand glaze. and now get ready to feel like you are gonna die. rub out the car 3 times with the hand glaze. this is an incredibly fine polishing agent that makes the showcar liquid glass look. finish off with a good carnuba wax (none of this silicone based "nano-wax" crap out there. a good carnuba will look utterly incredible on a good paint job.

Oh yeah, be ready to give up a month or more of your life. no friends (unless they like sanding and doing exactly what you tell them) no life other than sanding and coughing up flem the color of your current car and then the color of the primer you use.

[This message has been edited by timgray (edited 07-13-2007).]

quote Originally posted by FieroFanaticus2: And what about the compressor HP and Tank Size? One site I was looking said 3hp will power the gun... while someone here says it would just barely power it. I certainly don't want to be stopping halfway through panels waiting for the compressor to catch up. Is there a certain storage amount I should be looking for... The one one I was looking at was 6 gallon. It's not for sale anymore on ebay, but the price was right on it. Comes with the gauge. Says a 2-3HP compressor would work just fine.

I did my job with a 3 HP, 6 gallon tank, and I never had any issues. Once again, good old Harbor Freight. At the following link, there is a 4HP, 10 gallon compressor, I think that one would work great, and it’s only $150.

http://search.harborfreight...o?keyword=compressor


-Trent

[This message has been edited by Trent_Illician (edited 07-14-2007).]

The trick to metallics and pearl, is after you put on your 2 full coats, put about a 1/4 cup of reduced paint in the gun and fill the rest with reducer. Spray this thinned mixture in a random (as opposed to even strokes) and it will eliminate the mottleing (streaking of metallics). Then clear as usual.

I think Tim covered this by calling it "painters Prep" but this is a critical step that you need to heed. The stuff I use is called First Kleen and anytime you are getting ready to shoot anything you need to wipe down the panel with this stuff.

We just finished my first paint job (actually by brother in law shot the color / clear) and I can tell you from personal experience that is the easy part. You cannot put enough time in the body work / prep stage. May be redundant but if the body work is not right then the Primer - Paint - Clear will not be right.

We completely disassembled the car as the rear clip had some damage, this really brought out the amount of bodywork that this needed for a good job. I think every piece had some work done to it.

Also I wetsanded for Primer and paint both with 600 grit. This may have been overkill but I bought Dupont Chroma Base / Clear and the paint had a metallic and 2 pearls in it, I figured I needed to make sure that I would not find any sanding marks later !!

One last thing, someone already said this but I gotta just say it anyway .... MAKE SURE YOU HAVE PLENTY OF LIGHTS.

Best of luck on the paint and your tooth ! Marty

quote Originally posted by FieroFanaticus2: What about something like this.... http://www.harborfreight.co...taf?Itemnumber=91772 Electric. Possible to bypass the compressor all together?

I looked into this a little more, as it turns out, my Aunti Rose has one of these devices, and it says specifically on the label “NOT FOR USE WITH AUTOMOTIVE PAINT” it is for latex paints strictly, sorry, but it look like a really bad idea.

-Trent

As stated by others, 90% of a good paint job is in the prep, so take your time!!!!!! Also. take heed and ventilate your paint aera real good and wear a good mask. Even if you dont care about your health (which would be dumb) you won't do a good job if you're stoned! And that kind of high is no fun, not that I would know.... If you dont want to invest in all thte hardwareor go through the learning curve, just prep it until you cant find the tinest blem or whateve and take it to GOOD Macco shop. And I do mean a GOOD one.

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[IMG]



Trueleo.com/fiero.htm
RSpiderII@aol.com

If you still are looking for someone to paint the car for you, I'm in New Berlin ( Waukesha ) and I can help you out there. I'm sure we can work out some kind of deal....

Mark

Maybe, if it comes to that. I'd really like to learn how to do it though. After this month, I'll check my budget and probably start buying some equipment to get started with.

One thing I haven't seen in here, or on the info I've found.... is equipment care.

How does one clean out the gun, and the paint container on the gun? Is there any other equipment care to be aware of?