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GA brake conversion Q's by goatnipples2002
Started on: 02-24-2007 11:14 PM
Replies: 27
Last post by: fierodustin_86 on 03-06-2007 07:11 PM
goatnipples2002
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Report this Post02-24-2007 11:14 PM Click Here to See the Profile for goatnipples2002Click Here to visit goatnipples2002's HomePageSend a Private Message to goatnipples2002Direct Link to This Post
I understand you need to have the hubs cut off the rotors for the fronts but can I use the hubs off the rear rotors?
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Blacktree
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Report this Post02-25-2007 01:46 AM Click Here to See the Profile for BlacktreeClick Here to visit Blacktree's HomePageSend a Private Message to BlacktreeDirect Link to This Post
The Grand Am brakes are "plug-n-play" on the rear of the '84-87 Fiero. You simply remove the Fiero calipers and rotors, and bolt on the G/A ones. It's really that easy... well, aside from removing the now useless parking brake hardware.
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GT2efiero
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Report this Post02-25-2007 03:04 AM Click Here to See the Profile for GT2efieroSend a Private Message to GT2efieroDirect Link to This Post
So how does this compair to the Le Baron brake upgrade, or is it the same?
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goatnipples2002
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Report this Post02-26-2007 08:13 AM Click Here to See the Profile for goatnipples2002Click Here to visit goatnipples2002's HomePageSend a Private Message to goatnipples2002Direct Link to This Post
Thanks for the info on the rear swap, but I have had it done for about 3 years now. I am about to do the fronts and just want to know if I can use the hubs off of the rear rotors because I understand that the hubs need to be machined off the rotor. So can I use the hubs off the rears for the front GA brakes?
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AquaHusky
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Report this Post02-26-2007 09:33 AM Click Here to See the Profile for AquaHuskySend a Private Message to AquaHuskyDirect Link to This Post
Why would you want to remove the parking brake? Isn't there another way to do this with removing it? For those of us in places where we need to have the parking brake to pass inspection.

------------------
I gots the baddest Fiero on BRICKS!

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James Bond 007
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Report this Post02-26-2007 10:47 AM Click Here to See the Profile for James Bond 007Send a Private Message to James Bond 007Direct Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by AquaHusky:

Why would you want to remove the parking brake? Isn't there another way to do this with removing it? For those of us in places where we need to have the parking brake to pass inspection.



No you don't have to remove the emergency brake,just wire it to the chassie or coil spring.You will be useing 4 FRONT calipers,2 in the front and 2 in the rear.There is now nothing for the emergency brake to attach to.Because of your inspection you can can probubly only do the front.But it allso depends on how through the break inspection is,it would probubly pass a visual inspection.

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goatnipples2002
As far as I know,if you plan on useing the rear rotars up front for the hub,(but not for the Fiero rotars as Grand am rotars),I beleave the Grand am are a diffrent size.As for useing the rear up front for the hubs they should be the same size as the front and yes,they should work,for the hubs only.
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fierohoho
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Report this Post02-26-2007 10:52 AM Click Here to See the Profile for fierohohoSend a Private Message to fierohohoDirect Link to This Post
For the front GA upgrade you don't use any parts from the rear.

You remove the front rotor/hub and it has to be machined down so the GA rotor will just fit over it.

Then you have to do a little grinding to the area of the caliper mount so it will clear the GA rotor, this does not affect how the GA calpiper will mount.

Give me a few minutes and I'll post a couple pics.

Steve
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fierohoho
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Report this Post02-26-2007 11:05 AM Click Here to See the Profile for fierohohoSend a Private Message to fierohohoDirect Link to This Post

fierohoho

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OK, here's a pic of several front rotor/hubs before machining.


These two pics are after the rotor area is machine off, note there are no studs in the hub yet, more on that later.



Here's a pic of a completed rotor with new studs.


The reason for the new studs is because when the wheel sits on the old rotor/hub there is nothing between it and the rotor/hub.

When you do this upgrade you now have a GA rotor between the hub and the wheel so you need a slightly longer stud than stock.

I don't have the exact length but measure a stock one and add the thickness of the GA rotor.

The machined hubs can be installed back on the spindle and if you were careful you can use the old bearings a races.
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fierohoho
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Report this Post02-26-2007 11:13 AM Click Here to See the Profile for fierohohoSend a Private Message to fierohohoDirect Link to This Post

fierohoho

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These are the areas you need to grind down so the GA rotor has clearance.



These pics show the clearance after grinding.



You still have to tweak the brake hose a little to aleviate stress due to the GA caliper being slightly different but that's pretty easy.

Hardest part is finding someone to machine down the rotor/hub for you.

I have done the front and rear GA upgrade to my 84SE and I've been running it now for about 3 years now with no problems.

I did not change the master cylinder out and am still using the original stock one.

True I have no emergency brake but my 84SE is an automatic.

Steve
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86GT3.4DOHC
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Report this Post02-26-2007 11:29 AM Click Here to See the Profile for 86GT3.4DOHCSend a Private Message to 86GT3.4DOHCDirect Link to This Post
Keep in mind, this effectivly spaces the front wheels out the thickness of the rotor (~3/8") which is why I have not done the front.
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Blacktree
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Report this Post02-26-2007 01:13 PM Click Here to See the Profile for BlacktreeClick Here to visit Blacktree's HomePageSend a Private Message to BlacktreeDirect Link to This Post
OK, so Goatie you want to use the rear Fiero hubs on the front? I don't see that happening. Chopping off the front rotors would be childplay in comparison.
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goatnipples2002
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Report this Post02-26-2007 01:53 PM Click Here to See the Profile for goatnipples2002Click Here to visit goatnipples2002's HomePageSend a Private Message to goatnipples2002Direct Link to This Post
I was just checking since I have my old rear rotors laying around.

From the pics I can't tell what needs to be ground but I am sure I will see it once I get down there.

I am not too concerned about the fronts sticking out more as I will be dropping it about 1.5 coils and that should reduce the visual effects of the front wheels.
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fierohoho
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Report this Post02-26-2007 11:20 PM Click Here to See the Profile for fierohohoSend a Private Message to fierohohoDirect Link to This Post
Huh, I never thought about the wheel sticking out farther.

No one has ever said anything and I never noticed.

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tuner2m6t
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Report this Post02-27-2007 12:24 AM Click Here to See the Profile for tuner2m6tSend a Private Message to tuner2m6tDirect Link to This Post
Is there dimenions somewhere that tell exactly how to machine down the front rotors? I want to do this and my machinist needs to know what all needs to be done. Thanks.

[This message has been edited by tuner2m6t (edited 02-27-2007).]

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Blacktree
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Report this Post02-27-2007 01:39 AM Click Here to See the Profile for BlacktreeClick Here to visit Blacktree's HomePageSend a Private Message to BlacktreeDirect Link to This Post
Measure the inside diameter of the "hats" on the GA rotors, and machine the Fiero hubs accordingly. I think the most popular method is to turn 'em down on a lathe.

[This message has been edited by Blacktree (edited 02-27-2007).]

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86GT3.4DOHC
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Report this Post02-27-2007 08:17 AM Click Here to See the Profile for 86GT3.4DOHCSend a Private Message to 86GT3.4DOHCDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by goatnipples2002:

I was just checking since I have my old rear rotors laying around.

From the pics I can't tell what needs to be ground but I am sure I will see it once I get down there.

I am not too concerned about the fronts sticking out more as I will be dropping it about 1.5 coils and that should reduce the visual effects of the front wheels.


Its not about how it looks, its about how it throws off the suspension geometry, your front wheels will be tracking to the outside of the rear wheels.

Its been mentioned several times before, and makes sense, thats why you need longer studs, the front rotors are one piece on the side of the hub, they have no hat that goes over the hub.
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Blacktree
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Report this Post02-27-2007 11:35 AM Click Here to See the Profile for BlacktreeClick Here to visit Blacktree's HomePageSend a Private Message to BlacktreeDirect Link to This Post
I hope you realize that the front and rear track width on the Fiero is not the same. The rear wheels have a wider track. Even with the added thickness of the GA rotors in front, the rear track will still be wider.
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86GT3.4DOHC
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Report this Post02-27-2007 01:45 PM Click Here to See the Profile for 86GT3.4DOHCSend a Private Message to 86GT3.4DOHCDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by Blacktree:

I hope you realize that the front and rear track width on the Fiero is not the same. The rear wheels have a wider track. Even with the added thickness of the GA rotors in front, the rear track will still be wider.


I've never heard this before, never even heard it suggested. Do you have refrences?

Still, its not what it was designed for, but that would make it much less of a problem.
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86GT3.4DOHC
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Report this Post02-27-2007 07:57 PM Click Here to See the Profile for 86GT3.4DOHCSend a Private Message to 86GT3.4DOHCDirect Link to This Post

86GT3.4DOHC

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Well I measured, center of tread to center of tread, rear is 60" 1/16th front is 59" +/- 1/16"

In all the time I've been working with Fieros I had never heard about this. Its possible I measured wrong, but I dont think I'd have fudged a whole inch. Any official specs out there?

Still, with both rotors, you're going to be real close to evening out the front tires with the rear, not as bad as pushing them outside the rears, but I think I'll hold out
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goatnipples2002
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Report this Post02-27-2007 08:12 PM Click Here to See the Profile for goatnipples2002Click Here to visit goatnipples2002's HomePageSend a Private Message to goatnipples2002Direct Link to This Post
i could careless about the pushing the fronts out more my main concern is stopping faster and better with the added benefit of way cheaper brake components.
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86GT3.4DOHC
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Report this Post02-28-2007 07:48 AM Click Here to See the Profile for 86GT3.4DOHCSend a Private Message to 86GT3.4DOHCDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by goatnipples2002:

i could careless about the pushing the fronts out more my main concern is stopping faster and better with the added benefit of way cheaper brake components.


Thats all good and well, assuming you never want to turn during all this... You cant just blindly attack one system and ignore its effects on the rest of the car. I just want to go fast, but im not going to remove the breaking system to save weight. Giving the front end a wider stance is going to induce even more oversteer into a car with way too much already.
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Report this Post02-28-2007 10:16 AM Click Here to See the Profile for PyrthianSend a Private Message to PyrthianDirect Link to This Post
dont worry about the 1/2" added width. 1/4" per side. just changing tire widths makes bigger changes than this insignificant amount.
and - it is a pontiac after all - wider is better
anyways - people also have stiffer springs, stronger shocks & poly bushings.
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86GT3.4DOHC
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Report this Post02-28-2007 10:46 AM Click Here to See the Profile for 86GT3.4DOHCSend a Private Message to 86GT3.4DOHCDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by Pyrthian:

dont worry about the 1/2" added width. 1/4" per side. just changing tire widths makes bigger changes than this insignificant amount.
and - it is a pontiac after all - wider is better
anyways - people also have stiffer springs, stronger shocks & poly bushings.


Thats a good point, on my 88 I run wider tires in the rear than the front, and one could even compensate for the added rotor width by selecting the appropriate tire sizes.
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Blacktree
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Report this Post02-28-2007 12:20 PM Click Here to See the Profile for BlacktreeClick Here to visit Blacktree's HomePageSend a Private Message to BlacktreeDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
86GT3.4DOHC said: Giving the front end a wider stance is going to induce even more oversteer into a car with way too much already.


Actually, the Fiero (in stock form) has too much UNDERsteer. The GM engineers built massive understeer into the suspension to counteract the rearward weight bias, and the trailing-throttle oversteer (in the '84-87 suspension). Besides, moving the front wheels 1/2" further apart isn't going to have any noticeable effect on the understeer/oversteer equation.

I learned about the different front/rear track widths when I looked at my Fiero's tire tracks in the dirt. I already knew the rear of the car (the body) was wider than the front. So when I noticed that the rear tire tracks were spaced further apart, it didn't surprise me. I never took any measurements, though. Grab a tape measure and see for yourself.
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fierodustin_86
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Report this Post03-01-2007 12:16 AM Click Here to See the Profile for fierodustin_86Send a Private Message to fierodustin_86Direct Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by fierohoho:


Here's a pic of a completed rotor with new studs.


The reason for the new studs is because when the wheel sits on the old rotor/hub there is nothing between it and the rotor/hub.

When you do this upgrade you now have a GA rotor between the hub and the wheel so you need a slightly longer stud than stock.

I don't have the exact length but measure a stock one and add the thickness of the GA rotor.

The machined hubs can be installed back on the spindle and if you were careful you can use the old bearings a races.


Do you have a part number for the studs that you used. And maybe even what store it was that you got them from. thanks
dustin
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Hudini
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Report this Post03-01-2007 12:49 AM Click Here to See the Profile for HudiniSend a Private Message to HudiniDirect Link to This Post
The standard longer replacement studs are Dorman part number 610-323 or Advance Auto part number 98501. Napa has them too as 323. They are listed in their computers as longer Fiero studs. 12mm X 1.5 thread
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fierohoho
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Report this Post03-01-2007 07:46 AM Click Here to See the Profile for fierohohoSend a Private Message to fierohohoDirect Link to This Post
^
^
^
^
What he said.
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fierodustin_86
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Report this Post03-06-2007 07:11 PM Click Here to See the Profile for fierodustin_86Send a Private Message to fierodustin_86Direct Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by Hudini:

The standard longer replacement studs are Dorman part number 610-323 or Advance Auto part number 98501. Napa has them too as 323. They are listed in their computers as longer Fiero studs. 12mm X 1.5 thread


+ for you man.

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