I was wondering if anyone had a good link to a step-by-step installation of a turbo kit on a 2.8? There were a few good links out there before, but they have since seemed to have disappeared. Any help is greatly appreciated. Thanks.

recommend you buy a Design One kit. Every part, nut, screw and clamp is included and clear instructions. Mine worked perfectly for many thousands of miles. I think retail is $3 K, but you can find excellent deals. I got my kit at Carlisle Show at the swap meet for I think $1500 brand new and unopened.

Roger...This turbo kit can go on a stock 2.8? No need to lower compression? What are you getting for boost? HP? Thanks!

I'm not answering for Roger, but I have the KFG kit installed. Just as Roger noted, everything was included and fit perfectly. But, the KFG kit is no longer made. Design 1 is a superior product and since it's the only one left out there, go for it.
NO engine modifications, stock compression is fine. But do a compression test before considering a turbo installation. My turbo is factory set at a max. of 8 lbs. I don't know if the Design1 kit comes with a programmed turbo chip or a 2 bar MAP sensor, but you will need both. Also if rubber oil and water hoses come with the kit, dump the rubber. Use only braided stainless lines for both oil and water. The biggest job is putting the fitting in the oil pan. The oil pan has to come out to do this correctly. And you do not need a high volume oil pump, it's just another needless expense. Performance is advertised at 0-60 in 6 seconds. Yeah, on a 45* downhill. But, it is certainly less than 7 seconds, so close enough.

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[This message has been edited by Firefighter (edited 11-13-2006).]

Yep, all bolt on with no mod whatever. I ran it normally for prob 90K with 4-5 pnds boost. I played around when I first got it and I think the max I got was like 12-14, but you would blow a stock engine pretty easy. 4-5 pounds was plenty enough to stomp most wannabes. The only thing I did different than instructions was to back off the timing a few degrees to prevent detonation. But then I didnt use premium gas either. At oem timing, it would spike a little at wot in a hard run on 89 until I retarded it. Kit even includes all new catback exhaust w/ muffler.

D1 stage one kits blow 5 psig boost. Stage two option increases the pressure to 10 psig and adds a knock sensor to retard timing when necessary. I have the stage 2 on my stock 2.8 crate motor. Only issue is you MUST run 92 octane minimum or you better not get on the throttle.

It looks like design1 is gone as well. their website has expired.

that kind of stinks as I was going to toy with a turbo after I finished my 3.4 upgrade.. 5psi boost on a tuned up 3.4 would have been a fun thing because of the stronger parts.

[This message has been edited by timgray (edited 11-14-2006).]

You might want to try calling them. They may not even know their site is expired...

Design 1 Systems
3411 Noma Road
Oklahoma City, OK 73150
Telephone: 405.733.5505
email: Design1@SpammerPayUS.com
web: www.Design1Systems.com

I just talked to Kevin Leslie last week for some parts and he is still in the Fiero business. My 3.4 with his kit runs in the high 13's.

As I suspected / hoped... back up on-line....

http://www.design1systems.com/

The design1 system comes with complete step by step instructions and includes the 2 BAR MAP and PROM. The stage II uses an 85 ECM and a knock sensor that screws into a water jacket on the trunk side (remove existing plug). Auto's use the existing exhaust while manuals get a new one with mufflers and a CAT.

It is basically all bolt on, other than you have to take the oil pan off, punch a hole in it for the oil return (punch supplied with kit). You have to route water supply and oil supply to turbo, but all the hardware is supplied.

Should take a weekend. On my 88 I had to lift the engine 6" to clear the front mount so I could remove the oil pan.

Raise rear of car and put on jackstands.
Drain all coolant, including block.
Remove starter.
Remove exhaust system (better access).
remove crossover pipe
Remove oil pan and punch hole (directions show you where)
New crossover and turbo
Plumb water, oil both supply and return
Install exhaust
install MAP and PROM

This is a short list

Trouble spots can include the crossover pipe bolts, they may break and if you have never done it, the oil pan can be a pain. Also if you have any exhaust header leaks you would want to fix that for sure..........Paul

is Dennis Lagrua's website still around? he had a very good description on the DIY turbo

I have slightly high than stock compression pistons and simply run mine at only 7lbs of boost. WHile we did our own setup, I also advise you by a kit made for the Fiero and look at using an intercooler. In my opion they are a must for turbo. For those that differ, and dont use intercoolers, try putting your hand on the inlet to your TB right after a run in boost. That heat negates to some extent your boost.

On the 3.4 can you return the oil through the camshaft position sensor hole instead? I dont like the idea of punching a hole in the oil pan.

quote Originally posted by timgray: On the 3.4 can you return the oil through the camshaft position sensor hole instead? I dont like the idea of punching a hole in the oil pan.

If you can find a way to make the line run downhill from the turbo to that location, it will work. But since that would require the turbo sticking thru the decklid, i'd probably just go with the oilpan idea.

why downhill? the oil will be under pressure during operation. Or is that to empty all oil out of the turbo when the engine is shut off?

the oil return line isn't under pressure, it needs gravity to drain the pressurized oil from the turbo. You can return the oil to anywhere you want, you just have to buy an in-line scavenge pump. The GTO I worked on had a remote mount turbo, and had a scavenge pump to return the oil all the way to the front of the car, and into the oil filler cap.

Justin

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1988 Fiero Formula 4-spd- 3400sfi custom turbo install with a 60-1. Haltech ECU. Here comes 300+whp
1990 Mitsubishi Eclipse GSX - First time at a track/bad launch....13.1@107
1992 S10 2wd - lowered longbed, bike/quad hauler, contemplating a 4.9 caddy swap

1986 Kawi Ninja 600R - turbo setup this winter
1985 Kawi Ninja 600R - stuntbike, for sale

quote Originally posted by timgray: why downhill? the oil will be under pressure during operation. Or is that to empty all oil out of the turbo when the engine is shut off?

while, yes, technically the oil is under pressure in a closed system. you dont want the oil under pressure in the bearing housing. it will squeeze oil thru the seals to the turbines. once the oil hits the bearing housing, its much more open, and just runs down the MUCH bigger oil return line by gravity. it MUST be a free flow, or you will burn oil out your turbo.

Make the oil pan hole, it's really no big deal. You gust have to weld a big ole nut on it. A 2nd oil pump will mean my parsitic HP lose. Not much, but why have any when you can just drain into the pan?

QUOTE]Originally posted by EMX5636:

the oil return line isn't under pressure, it needs gravity to drain the pressurized oil from the turbo. You can return the oil to anywhere you want, you just have to buy an in-line scavenge pump. The GTO I worked on had a remote mount turbo, and had a scavenge pump to return the oil all the way to the front of the car, and into the oil filler cap.

Justin

[/QUOTE]

Yes, the oil pan line IS NOT under pressure. The turbo oil feed line is a -4AN line and the turbo to oil pan DOWNHILL line is a -10AN line. Turbos live on OIL FLOW, NOT pressure. There is a difference. Too much pressure will force the oil past the turbo seals and you sure will notice that.I believe that Garrett recommends that oil flow to the turbo through a 1/16" or 1/32"nd hole. Sounds nuts but that all it needs.

[This message has been edited by Firefighter (edited 11-18-2006).]