http://www.rickwrench.com/50dollarpaint.html
http://board.moparts.org/ubbthreads/showflat.php?Cat=0&Number=2331682&page=0&fpart=1&vc=1

looks damn good and shiny for $50.00. dunno how it will hold to a plastic fiero

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Fiero- mild 2.9 160hp
Caprice- wild 383 500hp
--Adam-- ASE Certified Technician
IM AOL: FieroGT5speed

that looks good and to keep the shine you can clear coat after 6 months

IF and I do mean IF I were going to do that, I would go to the nearest marine store, and get the interlux 2 part epoxy paint. it comes in a few assorted colors, rolls on thick, buffs to a very high gloss, is flexible, adheres to plastics and fiberglass, and lasts about 10 years in the sun. (well northern sun anyway). only drawback is it is about $80 a quart. it can be sprayed, but that is not an easy job. rollering it on is the common way for application.

but if you use a good wax with uv protectants in it, the rustoleum will likely last quite a few years.

In full honesty, I'd take that over a maaco job hands down. With this you get something that's kinda crappy but a lot better than what you'd expect for the money. With Maaco you usually just get the kinda crappy part.

quote Originally posted by GTFiero1: http://www.rickwrench.com/50dollarpaint.html http://board.moparts.org/ubbthreads/showflat.php?Cat=0&Number=2331682&page=0&fpart=1&vc=1 looks damn good and shiny for $50.00. dunno how it will hold to a plastic fiero

This is really cool, thanks for sharing! I just might try this. My car will never be a show car anyway.

The guy that sort of exploded that moparts thread said he did all kinds of stuff, plastic, fiberglass.....

Hi.... Welcome to July

https://www.fiero.nl/forum/Forum1/HTML/060339.html

Or maybe March

https://www.fiero.nl/forum/Forum2/HTML/065148-2.html

Ummmm I must have been out of town back then!

Ha-! I painted my Corvair with (Orange) Rustoleum and thinner, too! Maybe it's a Corvair thing...

I always loved the look of the Yenkos in any case. Thanks for sharing the link.

guy has a phot album with some close ups - with enough sanding and polishing it seems to really work well
http://photobucket.com/albums/d13/69martin/paint/?start=0

if you got marine paint instead of rustoleum it'd be even more durable. but $$$

i think i'll try it on my pickup before the fiero.

I just spent the last 30 minutes looking at all these 50 buck paint jobs, hell I`m impressed, I like that corvair. That white with blue stripe scheme would look nice on a Fiero . They say its all in the finish work....

hell. Ling just might get painted yet.

I did it...works like a charm. I stumbled upon a single part epoxy enamel (Zynolyte Flame Red) that was a perfect match for the paint on my car...I just did my roof, decklid and front fenders with the roller method (clear was shot) and they came out perfect. Paint was thinned about 25% with mineral spirits and I used about five coats after sanding all the parts down. No runs, no overspray, spent less than $20 and no one can tell where the original paint is and where I repainted.

Did it back in June and after three months of blazing sun and 100 degree heat, no fading whatsoever.

Best part is, this paint has been sitting in a garage for the past ten years and after stirring and straining it it flowed out perfectly and dried rock hard. Haven't really wetsanded it out yet, and not sure I will, as it looks great as is.

I discovered this paint after spraying some patio furniture and a set of steel wheels with my Wagner power painter...after the stuff dried, I couldn't believe how close the color was to my car. As I understand, lots of paint manufacturers use the same color formulas, so possibly any flame red paint will work.

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have any close up shots of the paint so we can see the finish?

Sorry, I don't have a camera that will take good enough photos. I'll try snapping something and see if there's enough detail.

I sprayed Rustoleum on a utilty trailer--Safety Red was the color. Thinned 1:1 with medium reducer, and sprayed with an old style high pressure apray gun. It dries amazingly fast and is very shiny. I got a quart, I think two quarts would be enough to do a whole car. But if one wanted a gallon, Home Depot carries it for less than $30 a gallon.

I think I'm going to paint my old fuxxed up Geo Tracker with Rustoleum

i've done some storm doors on my house with rustoleum spray, been up for almost 10 years now in sun snow rain, still nice and shiney. and that was just rattlecan. was the best spray job I ever did, no orange peel, and it leveled right out.
hmmmmmmm

But will this stuff stick to our panels ? I`m 1/2 tempted after looking at the links...Got a older van someone gave me out back --but it`s metal like the other cars in the links.... Hell I can spray it---but that would take the fun out of trying this roller deal paint job... White does hide alot of imperfections.

I've brush painted and polished model cars, and it was easier spraying and polishing. But brushing would be a LOT easier and WAY less expensive, just a lot more sanding.

as far as 'will it stick to our panels' I would see if anyone has had luck with their bumper covers? or if anyone has worked up the nerve to use this method on a Corvette yet?

I wetsanded an old headlight cover once, and the improvement was dramatic, but not perfect.

I'm VERY tempted to try this on a few of my horribly faded panels. Too bad it's snowing now.

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1984 Fiero SE

In thinking about it--you would still have to prep/sand the finish first to get it smoothed out---or the imperfections would still show threw.

Its ok if you dont mind bad orange peel.. and LOVE sanding..

ok this sounds like it would be a 10000% better paint job than i currently have on my car.... I'm gonna do this!!! I'll make a new thread and post as many pics as posible!! rustolihereicome!

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quote Originally posted by BLK 86 FSTBAK GT: ok this sounds like it would be a 10000% better paint job than i currently have on my car.... I'm gonna do this!!! I'll make a new thread and post as many pics as posible!! rustolihereicome!

Hope it goes well. I'm interested to see how well it works.

it may work just fine. I'll base this on refinishing and building custom fishing rods. made of fiberglass, alot of flexing, and in harsh environments. the 2 coatings used between me and one of my firends is: he uses spray rustoleum, black , and I use spray lacquer white. neither of us have any ornage peeling, and no cracking on either, and these things get BENT.
either way I think if you are carefull and do a decent prep job, you will have decent results.

In one of the links, there's a guy showing a picture of a can of the paint he uses. It says 'oil-based' near the bottom. Is that what everyone has been using? I happened to see some Rustoleum quart cans while at Wal-mart, which also said oil-based. Is all the Rustoleum like this?

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i believe the spray cans may be different, but all the standard rustoleum is oil based.

I'll be trying this on a spare body panel this winter.. the key seems to be making the paint as thin and still get it to stick, then doing lots of coats. it was never advertied as being the easy way. the easy way is to pay someone else to do it, it was written up as the cheapest way.

This is a good idea , try one panel, I`m still wondering if that white Corvair had any yellowing problems.

i've never seen rustoleum white start to yellow other than from getting dirt/oil rubbed into it.
one of the reasons i like this idea is because of how durable rustoleum paint is. and if I later had a little extra cash i'd pay someone just to spray it out with a UV blocking clear coat.

I was just thinking about what I posted--and it hit me, I was thinking back 30 plus years ago, when I owned a painting company and we dealt with white oil based paint (interior) and it would yellow over a period of time, then it struck me that I used to smoke back then too & alot of the places we dealt with had smokers (nicotine) we had to clean before painting.. What brand do you have in mind for the clear? Would automotive adhere to it--or stay with the rustoleum? I`m seriously thinking of doing this---that Covair with the blue stripes has given me some ideas....

after the rustoleum has cured for a few weeks there should be no problem getting an automotive clear to stick to it.

Thats the part that worry`s me-in order the get the finish nice with rustoleum, you have to sand the base , then compound & glaze the hell out of it, to get the clear to adhere, you have to remove the products that where layed in to get it to look nice to begin with, here somes the scuff/sand marks form the original paint, then you would see that 10 times over when the clear is applied--I`m thinking maybe like a shake-n-shoot deal. Mix the base & clear toghter (intergrated) then apply, then sand/finish the whole deal in one shot--and it would still have the clear in it...

worse case if the clear scare you is to get some good quality wax with uv blockers in it. many marine waxes do, like the starbrite teflon, which is non abrasive, and very hardy wax.

Fascinating thread especially for folks with a daily driver or non show car that could stand a paint job. One thing about oil base white that I wonder about. I recently painted my remodeled bathroom trim with a high quality oil base white, I think the brand was Pittsburgh. It has now yellowed to a sort of cream color. A websearch yielded the info that oil base white will yellow in a moist environment. I have to wonder how the white will stand up on a car. Other than that it looks very doable. I restored a wooden boat and painted it with a roller, then tipped it off with a brush. Many people at the launch ramp asked me if I sprayed it and were amazed when I told them it was rolled on. Anyway, a very interesting thread.

quote Originally posted by tjm4fun: worse case if the clear scare you is to get some good quality wax with uv blockers in it. many marine waxes do, like the starbrite teflon, which is non abrasive, and very hardy wax.

RV wax has a ton of UV blocker init since they sit out in the sun 24/7 just like boats

its another option...

if you put several coats of solid on then mixed the solid color with clear to make it translucent and put a few more coats of that on it should look like a deeper paintjob and gloss upp nicely.

[This message has been edited by Kohburn (edited 11-02-2006).]

TTT-waiting for pictures.

My fiancee has the digital camera in her car, as soon as she gets home tonght, I'll post pics of my progress today... I only did the decklid and spoiler, I did not do anything to the surface except use some dawn dish soap to clean everything off reallly good before I started to paint....

TODAY: Removed spoiler and decklid from car, Took them to my kitchen and started scrubing with dawn dish soap, "too cold outside" . I put on first coat of GLOSS BLACK this morning. I let dry then I Wet sanded 800 grit and applied 2nd coat around 4pm.

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[This message has been edited by BLK 86 FSTBAK GT (edited 11-02-2006).]

blk86gt Is that your white GT in your sig? If so putting black over white will be a good test for this paint. Are you using the standard Rustoleum oil base paint of the Professional version?

[This message has been edited by David DeVoe (edited 11-02-2006).]

I'm posting my thread in General Fiero Chat

quote Originally posted by BLK 86 FSTBAK GT: My fiancee has the digital camera in her car, as soon as she gets home tonght, I'll post pics of my progress today... I only did the decklid and spoiler, I did not do anything to the surface except use some dawn dish soap to clean everything off reallly good before I started to paint.... TODAY: Removed spoiler and decklid from car, Took them to my kitchen and started scrubing with dawn dish soap, "too cold outside" . I put on first coat of GLOSS BLACK this morning. I let dry then I Wet sanded 800 grit and applied 2nd coat around 4pm.

I have owned a body shop for several years and I must say, do your self a huge favor and scotch bright the panels before you paint them. You don't want the paint to come off in sheets in a couple months. And if you are not going to use a prep for cleaning, you might want to at least use a thinner to wipe the panels down. Though we are a dupont shop, I have sprayed rustolium on several projects for people at thier request. If you spray it on and put a hardner in the paint, it is a really nice finnish. It sure does stink and makes a mess though!