I have had my intake for a month or so I for the love pf god I cannot figure out how to get both TBs to activate at the same time. I had it rigged with some L brackets and a steel bar but when it swung up it would hit the deck lid. I have tried adapting the cruise cable but that hasn't worked at all. I am very frustrated at his time because I am very anxious to see how it perfroms.

My question...is there anyone that could fab up a systemn for my problem as well as cable mounts if needed? I will pay. One of TBs has to be mounted upside down if that matters.

[This message has been edited by goatnipples2002 (edited 10-01-2006).]

Take a steel bar or tube, and weld it to the throttle shafts. If your distributor is in the way, that won't work.

You will need to use a bellcrank system similar to the first gen Viper, do a search

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Former West Coast Fiero Employee

New and Pre-Owned Auto Sales Consultant
Power Ford Valencia

quote Originally posted by ryan.hess: Take a steel bar or tube, and weld it to the throttle shafts. If your distributor is in the way, that won't work.

try again.....when both TB face each other they turn opposite ways.

While I've never tried my hand at it, I've often though that if I were to make an attempt, I'd go for fabbing a Y-junction and hardpoint that would send a cable to each TB. Using two stock speedo cables, you can use the standard end caps and couplings to mate them to the TBs. Likely easier said than done, but it would probably be fairly straight forward and clean without too much effort once you get an idea hammered out. I've read posts about getting creative with the cruise control cable and reversing it across to the second TB, but that always looked like a headache to me, and it sounds like it's giving you one. Either way, there are more than a few success stories and nothing very elaborate in the pics, so there's a solution somewhere that doesn't involve building a Wonder of the World under your decklid.

quote Originally posted by goatnipples2002: try again.....when both TB face each other they turn opposite ways.

Well that's retarded. Fix that.

I have been looking at Cooter's picture for like 2 days and I may have an idea. Looks like modifiying the stock cruise cable ia a must.

quote Originally posted by goatnipples2002: try again.....when both TB face each other they turn opposite ways.

why would you do this? you dont want to use a cable - you want to use a shaft. otherwise you will have uneven opening.
but, ideally, you want a y-ipe & 1 properly sized throttle body.

what throttle bodies are you using?

i think the Y design might be the most logical, you get even pressure on both cables, so they will both open at the exact same time, they can both sin in their own direction, i might try that, all you would have to do is fab up a holder for your single throttle cable.

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1986 Silver 5 speed Fiero 3.4 DOHC
Bored .30, Fully balanced and blueprinted
13* retard exhaust cam, FFP UDP, much more.
13.93@101mph as it is on the street

355/380hp sbc, 4 bolt main
spec stage 3, and many other extras.
87 GT 5-speed Getrag, power everything.

I am using stock 2.8 TBs. I had a few (5) intakes laying around so I had my machine guys cut the flange off the stock intakes and weld them to the enterprise.

How do use suppose I use a shaft?

Whatever you rig up, make sure you can still adjust them independantly. Then after you get them to open at what LOOKS like the same time, put a vacuum gauge on each of your two pleniums and balance them. It would not be a bad idea to connect those pleniums with a good size balance tube that can be blocked off when you have to adjust the TBs. You should treat the setup like it a motorcyle setup. And dont believe anyone that tells you you dont have to have them blanced!

I would see if its somehow possible to disassemble and reconfigure one throttle body and put it together so it turns the same way as the other when they face each other.

If thats not possible then you might be able to adapt a gyro "Y" cable off of a BMX bike to work. I dont know if those cables would have enough travel for throttle use though.

Both throttle shafts HAVE to be in the same plane and parallel. That is the whole trick. Yes you will have to notch the deck lid so it will open. The throttle shaft closest the glass has a tapped hole 6-32 where the TPS would mount. You will be using only one TPS. I used a 3/8 Dia. alum. rod and tapped it 6/32, made a coupling "stud" and "loctite" it in place. The other end uses a standard 3/8 shaft coupling that locks onto a flat on that throttle shaft. You really don't need a balance tube, I did however use vacuum off both tubes to get a good signal to the MAP sensor. There is pictures of my setup posted elsewhere, I'm just not that savy with computers to re-post it. This system works awsome. It is the best single performance upgrade I have made.
Best of luck, don't give up, where theres a will theres a way.
TT Slick

My machine shop made the intake with equal plenums so they are offset just like the intake. I had a setup that allowed both to open up all the way. I checked this several times. I disabled the system because of the deck lid clearance and I felt I would make it a lil better. I know how I will do it. I am going to mount a bracket on each throttle body and a rod welded to each bracket. 1 bracket is mounted slightly forward of the other to make up for the offset. Any suggestions?

pic?

I don't own a digi cam. I will try and find one.

This is difficult to picture without some sort of graphical aid. Even some scribbles in MS Paint would be better than nothing.

Anyway...

What are those brackets doing? Are they going to rotate along with the throttle valve? If so, then making them different lengths will make the throttles open at different rates. If the brackets are stationary, then there shouldn't be a problem... as long as the cables can slide through without binding.

As I see it...

You take a length of tubing that slides over each throttle shaft (whatever diameter that is). Take it to a welder, and have them welded together X length apart. Then bolt the throttle bodies onto the manifold X length apart. If it binds, it's because they're not even with each other, and you'll have to adjust the manifold to fit.

I think at this point, it would be infinitely easier to rig up a cable system. There are beads available that will allow you to splice into the cable to make it a Y.

It kind of sounds like that's what you're doing... If so, then you can adjust the TB's separately by choosing where you put the splice.

[This message has been edited by ryan.hess (edited 10-03-2006).]

okay this is what i did this afternoon...I welded the brackets to the squared hoop that the cable goes between. This metal hoop is the one that most people push on to rev there motors from the engine bay. I welded the brackets to those with the TB upside down that gives me extra clearance for the decklid. My only problem is the rod that connects the Tbs is in the way of the air filter so I will look into a very shallow foam filter sooner or later. I mounted the brackets at the same height. I welded the rod to the brackets with the TBs fully open, so the rod is crooked as expected and they open at the sametime. My other problem is the TB doesn't close all the way. I will find out how bad it is once I install it tonight.

Will you be able to adjust them independantly for balencing? Just like .005" TB plate dif can make one bank run at a higher or lower vacuum level than the other. May not seem like much of a problem at idle, but at higher rpm, you really dont want the left bank flowing enough CFMs for say 5,200 rpm and the right bank flowing for 4,950 rpm. When we looked into doing the dual TB method (my first choice), I decided on using two cables off a common shaft with one arm adjustable and one fixed. Then we decided that linkage setup and moreover for other reasons the dual TBs created too many issues and thus we went with the single TB intake. Good luck with it. Dual TBs do look cool andf folks have been using without success.

It is in as of 11pm and running ok as of 2am. My TBs are uneven and they won't remain that way for long. One is open just a hair more than the other causing a idle of 1500rpms. My clutch is badly worn from the nitrous, so My driving impressions aren't 100% but from what I just experienced I willl say it is the best mod I have done EXCEPT nitrous lol. I paid $131 for my intake to be created. So for a $150 mod it rocks. My clutch slips bad so high rpms isn't very impressive in my car right now, but my spec stage 3 is sitting on my dish washer waiting so after that install I can give a better impression of the intake. 1 thing I will say is get a chip from darth and eliminate or move the rev limiter higher. I guess
i now belong to the "Enterprise Club"....trekie for life. I am beat right now but I would like to start another thread for people that would like to make one but don't know what to do because the only thing I really had to go off of was pictures and emails from various members.

Definately need pics!

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Jay Brintnell
Southern Ontario Fiero Association
Yellow 85 Notchback(A.K.A. GodFearN)

quote Originally posted by Francis T: Whatever you rig up, make sure you can still adjust them independantly. Then after you get them to open at what LOOKS like the same time, put a vacuum gauge on each of your two pleniums and balance them. It would not be a bad idea to connect those pleniums with a good size balance tube that can be blocked off when you have to adjust the TBs. You should treat the setup like it a motorcyle setup. And dont believe anyone that tells you you dont have to have them blanced!

simplest way. carefully attach 2 clear rubber tubes to a board. fill them both with water up a foot or so and add a little red food coloring. connect one end of the tube to a vac port on each TB. when at rest mark the lines and then start the car, the two water levels will be different because vaccum will be different. adjust until they are the same or as close to possible.

I had to make one with 4 tubes to adjust my honda back in the 80's. 2 TB's is a piece of cake. 4 of them is a major pain.

Use a large enough tube that you get a sensitive reading but enough water weight that it will not suck the water out of the tubes. you will have to experiment. I used 1/4 inch but then I had tiny motorcycle vac on a itty bitty 950cc engine.

how did you route the IAC & the MAP? is there a EGR?
do you y-pipe back to a single filter?

quote Originally posted by Pyrthian: how did you route the IAC & the MAP? is there a EGR? do you y-pipe back to a single filter?

The TBs are upside down for added clearance. The IAC/TPS are ran as normal, just on 1 TB. I drillled holes in the back of each plenum for vacuum so 1 is for the map/FPR the other is for the PCV/whatever the vacuum line is coming out of the firewall. No EGR.

No filters right now and the way it is I don't think I will run 1 filter probably 2 foam filters because of the tight clearances. I had to notch out my decklid.

Don't worry yall I will get pictures asap...I don't have a digi cam...YET...my old lady is hagging me about one.
I

[This message has been edited by goatnipples2002 (edited 10-04-2006).]

wow, never thought of this - the IAC system creates a balancing effect by linking the two sides of the intakes.
it isnt a huge volume, but it is enough to compensate for minor vacuum differences.
and I expect you could open up the IAC holes in the intake if its not enough.

I don't have a balancing tube yet. I will most likely fix my TB linkage first because the idle is way high. atleast too high for my liking.

'EDIT- to say I fixed the idle I had to dremel the little screw that stops the TB plate and bent my rod a little as well. It now idles at 900rpms and it is way smoother than before.

I will change my clutch this weekend and see what it feels like then.

[This message has been edited by goatnipples2002 (edited 10-04-2006).]