want to know if you need a gasket from the lower intake to the heads because i have a set and dont have gaskets for that, so wasnt sure if there actually were gaskets for it or if i just dont have them?
If I recall you need to use a thick bead of hi temp RTV sealant on the 2 "S" parts between the heads and someone correct me if im wrong but the sealant goes up the sides of the head as I highlighted in orange in this pic, dont put it on til you are torqueing down the bolts for the lower intake though.
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08:02 PM
tjm4fun Member
Posts: 3781 From: Long Island, NY USA Registered: Feb 2006
want to know if you need a gasket from the lower intake to the heads because i have a set and dont have gaskets for that, so wasnt sure if there actually were gaskets for it or if i just dont have them?
They came with my last set of gaskets.. And were on the engine orginally.. They also go on BEFORE you stick the pushrods back in.. They sort of go between the holes..
I dont see how it would work without something, at least RTV.. ( tho id not trust that stuff to hold there )
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08:16 PM
Back On Holiday Member
Posts: 6238 From: Downingtown, PA Registered: Jul 2001
per tha bove note on the rtv, you need a thick bead on the flats on the block, be sure you det it into the corners where the head mounts. you do not need the rtv on the heads with the felpro gaskets. in the second pic, I think the black o ring is the dist o ring, if you have it apart, you might as well put a new one on. one last hint. before you put the valve covers on, since you can see the rocker arms, rotate the motor until the timing mark on the damper is at 0 and the rockers on cylinder 1 (lower right in the pic) ar bothe flat and not compressing any valves. the mark will be at 0 at the exhaust cycle too, so go one more turn if that is how it is. this way when you drop in the dist, you can set the rotor pointing to where the #1 cylinder wire will be. it's easy to set to 0 now, and that should get you close enough to start and run.
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11:32 PM
Sep 11th, 2006
BobadooFunk Member
Posts: 5436 From: Pittsburgh PA Registered: Jun 2003
per tha bove note on the rtv, you need a thick bead on the flats on the block, be sure you det it into the corners where the head mounts. you do not need the rtv on the heads with the felpro gaskets. in the second pic, I think the black o ring is the dist o ring, if you have it apart, you might as well put a new one on. one last hint. before you put the valve covers on, since you can see the rocker arms, rotate the motor until the timing mark on the damper is at 0 and the rockers on cylinder 1 (lower right in the pic) ar bothe flat and not compressing any valves. the mark will be at 0 at the exhaust cycle too, so go one more turn if that is how it is. this way when you drop in the dist, you can set the rotor pointing to where the #1 cylinder wire will be. it's easy to set to 0 now, and that should get you close enough to start and run.
thanks for the tip! i was actually gonna ask about that later!
Auto parts store will have a red (permatex 400 plus) degree sealant, great stuff. If it hasn`t been mentioned, don`t cut those gaskets--its tempting--but don`t cut them, also lay a little bead of rtv up around the head area--as mentioned above. You have the manual for the torque sequence too?
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08:51 AM
m0sh_man Member
Posts: 8460 From: south charleston WV 25309 Registered: Feb 2002
ive cut every lower intake gaset ive ever done, and its not been a problem before..... some of these engines have 50,000+ miles on them now, i always cut around the pushrod area's *IF* the heads dont have to come off.
matthew
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03:15 PM
BobadooFunk Member
Posts: 5436 From: Pittsburgh PA Registered: Jun 2003
wouldnt be the first time! (but Jerry Sadlo also works )
