Ok so second time in just over 2 weeks this has happened ...first time the engine has acted up ...first time engine would just start and then die ..start die ..had to 2 pedal it to get it out of the parking spot and get it to the shop i work at...i had to start it in neutral keep my foot on the gas so it wouldn't die on me (revs would just fall to zero even if i let my foot off the gas after starting it and holding it with my foot at 1000rpm it would still die) ..good thing i was only 5 mins from my shop..got there ..brought it in ..turned it off...started it ..and it kept running ...so ok ..since it wasn't acting up at the time ..couldn't diagnose it ..the foreman told me it could be guessing at the symtoms that the IAC could be faulty ...the MAP senor ..or the TPS senor...he told me for now ...clean the IAC ..which i did when i got home ..ok wasn't sure if that fixed it or not cause nothing has happened since today ..at work

get back from getting coffees for the guys and i go to shut the key off and i by acident i hit the lights with the other hand and it stalled (died) ...so i don't know if it happened to die at the same time i hit the lights i don't know ...( i was parking it so i tried to start it again) ...start it ..nope, starts then dies ..ok ..got the snap-on scan tool all hooked up ..pull codes..nope nothing ..the first time this happened i jump the 2 prongs and had the engine light flash and no codes then ..had the car running and was watching the IAC ..and all the other goodies ..and nothing the only thing at first was the O2 but the is illrelivent to the problem ....but it sat for 30 mins before i put the scan tool on it and it started up after a long crank ..so the foreman is leaning towards IAC ..but i don't really want to go out and spend how ever much it is ..he thought maybe $120 (canadian) ..spend that much and replace it and then have the problem happen again and have wasted that money for nothing, i would rather be 100% on waht is it and replace that ..im' guessing the IAC might be the original i do not know

So i am posting my problem here to see if anyone has had this sypmton before ...by the way i just remember now to check the achrives i will later but if anyone can reply now or throw in there 2 cents that would be great ..thanks all

matt

Sounds like the infamous TCC solenoid problem. Disconnect the TCC connector (front side of the transmission case) and see if this corrects your stalling problem. If so, it's time to replace the solenoid.

it only happens when i go to start it .never has happened when im driving ...unless u ment that the tcc locks up when i first start it ..they know when its a tcc at my shop ..they know the commen symptoms ..i'm pretty sure they would have sugested that if it was it

thanks
matt

Not sure it's you TCC but you can try unpluging it and see.

I would pull the IAC again when it is acting up and use your finger in place of the IAC and see if you can regulate the idle to a constant speed.(have to have someone help you of course)
If you can then your problem maybe a bad IAC if not you need to look elsewhere.
If you can get it to idle this way you can plug the iac in but don't intall it. Put it in one hand with a finger on the pintle so it does not fly out. If you can keep it idling with your finger you should be able to adjust the idle and watch the iac move in and out as you vary the speed. If the IAC will move in and out then you will know it's not the iac.
Hope that makes since...

[This message has been edited by Dodgerunner (edited 08-02-2006).]

You could run winaldl on the car to find the problem--that way your not throwing money at different parts. You can make your own cable for a couple dollars .
http://winaldl.joby.se/
www.aldlcable.com/

If it would still stall out even when holding your foot on the gas pedal at around 1000 rpm than the IAC has nothing to do with your stalling problem. I would put on a fuel pressure guage and see if you have a possible pulsator or pump problem. Also IF the headlights on is related than I would run another ground wire to the engine and body as well as checking the body feed and ground wires. Since you have no codes then I would suggest you look at systems not monitored by the ECM, inotherwords your diag should START at assuming the sensors are working properly, look at fuel, secondary ignition and even feed wire to coil.

Pete

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Hows Your Voltage from the Altenator?

i noticed it was lower but today it was really rainy and when i left work ..the belt squealed ..so i'm gonna check it later when its not raining to see how loose the belt was but tonight it was higher than usual ..usually i noticed the last few days it was about 1 to 2 notches past 13 but this time on the drive home from work it was about 3- 4 notches ..so i dunno why that is ..and the belt did squeal so i don't know if that help somehow lol ..

ya i know if there was no codes then a sensor would set one if it was acting up so hmm ...what bout the fuel filter? it looks like its been on the car for a while but i do'nt think it would cause something like that being plugged ..usually its different symptoms ..such as a fuel pump ....not working at times but it has never yet just not started ..usually fuel pumps just cause no starts period and after hitting the gas tank ..it would help start the pump at times ...so hmm i really don't want to throw money at it as i said before ...like i thought after the first time it happened i'll wait till it happenes again hmm

and pete it did not stall or die when i had my foot on the gas holding it at 1000rpm ..i had to have my foot on the gas to keep it running the first time ..i never tried to keep it running with my foot on the gas the second time ..just went to tell the forman that it was happening so ya

thanks all ..hmm i would hate it to be the fuel pump because that would be a pain ..but the symptoms don't seem to be doing it ..i thought maybe something fuel related was not working right ..before this happened..since most of the times i start the car it takes a good 5 seconds to even 10 seconds of cranking the car over to get it catch and run ...i don't crank it that long cause i do not want to kill the starter so now i do it in 3 seconds shots ..until it starts ..usually takes 2 - 4 tries doing it this way ..and sometimes ..it starts up right away ...and after the car running and having it off for a few mins or 10 mins ..it starts right up ..so after being warmed up ...also i noticed more oftens after getting gas and the car sitting on level ground (driveway is slanted and after getting gas i sometimes part on the street since the parking spot in the driveway is taken) so i figured maybe the long cranking would be fuel related too ..possible plugged fuel filter? thanks all ..sorry i know i added anotther little problem to my situation ..thanks again

matt

ok scratch the low voltage i was stupid lol ..again driving home ..its hot ..and it was low ..so then i noticed hmm the temp getting alittle hot ..turn on a/c to max...so the fan goes on ok ..oh ya ..voltage fluxed alittle ok ..turn it off...oh ya ..the blower motor draws power..sorry ..nvm about the voltage ..stupid me ..i always have it on now ..casue its so hot and having no a/c i need some air flow

oh ya ..i was thinking of maybe getting a retro kit for my a/c (the engine i put in doesn't have a/c but the car does) ...and i was told that where the oil pressure switch is on the oil pan is different with cars with a/c .because the compressor is in the way i believe ..if so plz tell me ..or can i just put the compressor on without it getting in the way or hitting anything? thanks all again

matt

so on this past friday ..was let off ...took a few times for the car to start ..finally started and finally ..the engine light is on ..i pulled the code and the other guys said its fine since it took a few times to start ..i told the forman said ..nope it is important ..i told him it was a code 48 lol ..i forgot the # but pulled the code yesterday the old fashioned way ..paperclip ..it was code 42 ..so i guess that helps i looked the code up on the forum ..the spark plug wires are fine ..so i was thinking maybe module or double check the connectors going to the module? ..or if anyone else has an idea ..let me know

thanks again

matt..i am assuming this code is related to the first problem ..the car starting up and then dieing