I have read a bunch of posts on using the stock fiero water pump on the V8, so I decided to try it. I modified the pump, I ground off like a whole corner so it would clear the cradle rail, and I mounted it in a hole where AC would have gone. I plan to make block off plates for the old water pump locations, and the water pump, and tap those and run hoses to the pump. Its not on for good yet, I'm just trial fitting everything, I still need to fabricate another mount for the pump. So what do you guys think, will this work? It all seems like it should work, I just quickly put in some washers to even out the pulleys, and they look real close already. It just seems like this was way too easy to do (compared to the other threads I've read about doing this.), and I'm goint to run into a problem later. But so yeah ayway, if anyone sees this that has done it, tell me what you think. Also even if you haven't, tell me if you see anything wrong witht the way I did it. thanks. -Mark

Hi Mark, It would appear from what your saying it should work--allthought I don`t know what all your doing on your conversion--my only question would be is there any differences in strenght , reliability, ect from a 2.5 pump---say over one for the SBC. Other then that, sounds like it would do the trick..

Looking good so far. I forget the actual model, but there is a FWD version of the 2.5 pump (housing actually) that attaches directly to two AC compressor holes (so it would bolt directly to both holes in the AC bracket). That would give you two holes to mount with and minimal fabrication.

One of the challanges with this setup is to get the hoses from the pump to the inlets. The inlet towards the rear of the car does not have much room. Something like this would work with the hoses coming up and along the top of the frame rails (from my old electric pump setup)

What adapter kit and tranny are you running? I am pretty sure this setup will not clear the frame rail on an Archie Manual kit unless you retain the Archie balancer and only run 1 V belt

I have been playing with this concept, but I want to keep the AC and run a serpentine belt. Here is a mock up using a modified 3.1 balancer, 88 2.5 AC, WP, Alternator and stock belt. It will not clear the frame rail on an Archie Manual kit.

I am sure Russ will be chiming in here and he is the expert on using the 2.5 pump.

I am using the archie kit with a 5 speed tranny. I'm not going to have AC, so I should only have 1 V-belt. Hey fieroguru, did you make those water pump hoses, or buy them somewhere? Thanks for the help. -Mark

Do you plan on using an idler to get more belt wrap on the pump pulley? That's a trade-off between getting enough wrap to drive the pump correctly vs. increasing belt wear with the backside idler. I think that's why Russ went to a serpentine setup; he was having very short belt life.

quote Originally posted by V8IndyProject: Hey fieroguru, did you make those water pump hoses, or buy them somewhere? Thanks for the help. -Mark

I made them - I am cheap and I like to weld!.
Alex's SBC install shows some AN fittings that we was able to use for his remote elctric pump setup. Shogun also sells a log type manifold that is uses in a remote electric application that mith work as well - Then you only need 1 hose!

I wasn't planning on using an idler pulley. Do you think i'll need one? Then I'll need serpentine belts with all new pulleys, so could I use the stock 350 harmonic ballancer? -Mark

Hey fieroguru,

How much do you want for a set of your cool water outlets?. We've "spoken before". ? I suck at welding tube.

Fiero Indy. One option that I'm working with now is using the Morosso Block off Plates for the engine block and then tapping them for water outlets with barbed ends. The Morosso blockoff plates are about 1/4" thick... I made my own with 6061 Billet Aluminum Plate that is about 5/16 - 3/8" thick. A little more "meat" to tap for the outlets. I don't have any pics yet but I could take some if you need them. I also have the site for the blockoffs if you want to buy them. You can search sumitt racing for Water pump blockoff and they should come up.

I have'nt gotten around to trying to line up the 2.5 pump yet. (I'm trying to retain my A/C so I have to get a bit more creative in location so you are ahead of me in that respect.

Keep us posted.

As fieroguru mentioned in a PM to me. The 2.5 pump seems to have enough flow for the SBC. From what I've seen on my track car: Sometimes High Volume pumps let the water travel too fast through the radiator and cooling system and it does not cool quite enough. A "fast moving system" also can not "soak" enough heat from the cylinder heads especially in a older "non-reverse cooled" SBC. Coolant needs to stay an "appropriate" amount of time in the engine to transfer heat from block and heads to coolant and then it also needs to spend enough time in the radiator to be effectively cooled before it's return trip back to the engine.

fieroguru mentioned that because of the diameter of the Fiero's coolant tubes, (and I agree), trying to use a SBC pump for example may not seem to make any improvements because of the size of the tubes the coolant is going through.

I seem to feel (by looking at all of the parts) that the 2.5 pump should be adequate to put enough water through the cooling system while retaining the proper flow through the rad to cool it effectively. Great work. Keep us posted.

[This message has been edited by 3084me (edited 03-24-2006).]

quote Originally posted by 3084me: Hey fieroguru, How much do you want for a set of your cool water outlets?.

I still have the ones in the pic. The only changes are the hose ends are about an inch or so shorter in length and they don't look that "pretty" anymore. They are just sitting in a box and I don't have a use for them anymore. $30 and I will ship them to ya! I take paypal at fieroguru@lycos.com.

Here is the shogun manifold I mentioned:
https://shogunindustries.com/cgi-bin/Web_store/ws400CS.cgi?cart_id=1060324042310846&page=products.htm&view_item=M0460
I really wish there was a spec sheet on it so I could see how far this would stick out from the block and if the AN fitting would clear the frame rail without flipping it upside down.

Fieroguru,

Shoot me a pm with your paypal address. I'll take those off your hands even if I don't decide to use them.

I've used the blockoff plates on my big block track cars in the past. I've done a little mock up on the Fiero but not much. Even though the ends are barbed, they are a 90 degree "curve". Your's are more streamlined and I agree that strut tower interference may be an issue that's for sure.

As odd as it may sound, I've also explored the idea of using a older Ford pump (reverse rotation) and mount the pump with the pulley facing the drivers side of the car further down and just above the A/C compressor. I've got a few old Ford Pumps here. Not impossibe but how much time do I want to actually spend on finding out "if it can be done". Right?? It's ot exactly that we have a ton of room down there.... You've got about the best idea so far and it's a solid idea and very workable setup.

[This message has been edited by 3084me (edited 03-24-2006).]

Well, tonight me and a friend made some block off plates, then we drilled holes in them, and used some 1 inch pipe and made it connect both water inlets, with one opening at the top. Its all welded, but its still needs lots of grinding and some paint. I'll post some pictures of it tomorrow, when it looks a little more refined. -Mark

Heres the hose connectors I made. -Mark