Okay. I posted a question to help determine the location of an oil leak in my 2.8L 6cylinder automatic.
https://www.fiero.nl/forum/Forum2/HTML/069606.html

The engine is currently housed in an '86 SE, but was done as a swap and only has about 5K-6K miles on it. (I don't know what year the engine is or where it came from.)

Here is the original leak pattern in the driveway:

Topcat suggested I check the oil pressure sender first and after consulting with my Haynes Repair manual and checking in the general vicinity of where I thought that might be, I discovered the only areas that were wet with oil and took these pics:

Here's the new leak pattern on the driveway. It's gotten wider and appears that the leak is either increasing or just expanding. (Our driveway is on a bit of a slight incline, so the oil is running downhill.)

These are pics of what I think is the oil pressure sender:

Another angle:

I tried to get a pic of the tube running down to the underside of the car since it's got oil on it as well.

--more---

--cont.--

Here are pics from the underside of the car. The leak is on the passenger side, so we took these pics aiming up next to the rear tire.

Looking at these pics and the others from the other thread, is this coming from the oil pressure sender? What do I do to fix it?

The car runs great. I just want to get the leak taken care of before it gets worse or develops into a problem. The rest of the engine seems to be clean, so there aren't any other leaks that I can see.

Help!

--Tress

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I may not know alot about cars...but I make a Fiero look good!

"The Hottie" --drowned by Hurricane Katrina but not forgotten: "Memories are forever"; The Hottie Diaries: (A Tribute to my little car)
Preface: Babes Do It Better Volume I: Checkup Ups and Downs: It Runs, Sort of Volume II: Engine Adventures Volume III: Declaration of Independence ...to be continued (she will live again)

The oil pressure sending unit has an encased plastic component housing that degrades after a good period of years use. That appears to be your problem and it should be replaced ASAP, not a good idea to operate the car until the leak has been corrected (low oil, and / or risk of fire).

That's the area of the oil pressure sender. Here's some pics showing it more clearly, though your earlier model sender will look somewhat different:

You'll see the silver tube that comes out the bottom of the metal block the sender is screwed into, that tube goes to the pressure port on the block. On non-A/C cars the sender is screwed directly into the block, but the A/C compressor required moving it to a different location as shown above.

JazzMan

[This message has been edited by JazzMan (edited 01-15-2006).]

here is the OPSU

there is a nut i want to say its a 15mm, use a wrench underneath the unit
it just screws out

Yep, that is it. It looks like the sender in your pic is wet with oil. The sender is not too hard to change, but it is in an awkward place.

good luck

Okay. I think I can see what you're talking about guys. I went online to AutoZone and Advance Auto to find the part and just realized that I don't know the background on this engine. Do all oil pressure sender/switches fit any 2.8L 6cyl engine? And is replacing this as simple as unscrewing one and screwing in another? Will this definitely take care of the leak?

I know this might be a stupid question, but how is it that this component leaks even when the car isn't running? There's no oil being pumped through it if the engine is shut off, so why the leak? (What does it do anyway?)

Thanks for the prompt replies as always and for your patience with my "newbie" questions. I'd started learning my way around a 4cylinder engine pretty good befoere the Katrina thing. Now I'm going to have to start all over again with a 2.8L 6cylinder. You guys are the best! LOL

--Tress

You will have to be sure to ask for the ne for the year car you have. I am pretty sur that the 88 sender is different (has different connector) I think the 85 - 87 2.8 senders are all the same.

As far as how does it leak with the engine off? My theory is tthat once the engine is off, there is still oil on the part. When the pressure is relieved, it still has to drain, so if the sender is shot internally, it will take the path of least resistance, and leak externally instead of back to the pan

quote Originally posted by Miss-Tress007: Do all oil pressure sender/switches fit any 2.8L 6cyl engine? And is replacing this as simple as unscrewing one and screwing in another? Will this definitely take care of the leak? I know this might be a stupid question, but how is it that this component leaks even when the car isn't running? There's no oil being pumped through it if the engine is shut off, so why the leak? (What does it do anyway?)

Tress,

There are a couple differant design on the sender. All of them are the same for your cars year though. Just order it by application. You will recognize it when you see it.

The sender can leak BAD. It can be one of the worst leaks on an engine. What happens is that there is oil dripping out of it and you turn off the car and it is so covered that it continues to leak for hours. This part is not all that expensive, change it and clean off the engine, then see it is is dripping anyplace else.

Aaron

Thanks for the clarification. I'm gonna go pick up some tools (all of mine were in New Orleans), then get the part and hopefully be able to replace it today before it gets dark. Can I take it off and take it with me to make sure I get the right one? When I checked online, there were a couple of parts that were around $30 to $50 bucks, and another couple that were only $5 to $9. There werent' any pics, so I couldn't tell what the difference is. Any hints?

Another question...... (yeah, I know I'm pushin' it. lol)

Is there a way to get the engine really clean? Most of the engine is already pretty clean (I'm not used to having a car with literally no leaks anywhere), and the leak that I got from this part needing replacing has spread to a large part of the engine. How do I clean all of the old oil off so I can tell if I've solved the problem once I've replaced the switch? Can I take it to a car wash and direct the water up underneath the engine to clean off the bottom? Is there something I can get from the auto store that will work?

Thanks again!
--Tress

[This message has been edited by Miss-Tress007 (edited 01-15-2006).]

quote Originally posted by Miss-Tress007: Another question...... (yeah, I know I'm pushin' it. lol) Is there a way to get the engine really clean? Most of the engine is already pretty clean (I'm not used to having a car with literally no leaks anywhere), and the leak that I got from this part needing replacing has spread to a large part of the engine. How do I clean all of the old oil off so I can tell if I've solved the problem once I've replaced the switch? Can I take it to a car wash and direct the water up underneath the engine to clean off the bottom? Is there something I can get from the auto store that will work? Thanks again! --Tress

Tress, I use simple green and water hose with normal pressure. I spray the simple green on full strength, let it sit for a while, then hose it off. It really works great. The one thing I'd be careful of is getting the electrical stuff saturated. Just keep the stream of water to a minimum around the electrical stuff... particulary the EGR solenoid. It sits right next to the oil press sender is a small black square box with vac lines and electrical connector on it. When I had my 2.8, I had a code 32 fault that I traced to the solenoid. I replaced it and took the old one apart. I found corrosion inside the old EGR solenoid.

[This message has been edited by topcat (edited 01-15-2006).]

Yes! that is the oil sending unit I just replaced this week. I used a 15" cresent wrench to remove it since it was shot anyway. They generally are not too tight. Don't use the big plastic nut to install the new one though. I think that is the cause on many leaking units. There is a 14 mm nut on the bottom side. An angled wrench (same one for installing injectors on a Mercedes diesel. ) Kind of z shaped. Remember to use teflon tape on the threads. Do not over tighten. If you were close I would lend you my wrench. Hope this helps. Mark

Playing Devil's advocate here, but are you sure that it's oil and not coolant? Your photos from the bottom show that the bottom of your water pump has a "cleaned" area where some type of solvent has been passing over it. if it's coolant, I'd say that your water pump seal has gone out and the pump needs to be replaced.

Use Simple green for cleaning
Check the parts at Advance online and you will find the part and a picture. one of the parts is G P Sorensen # OPS 130 $31.88
Don

[This message has been edited by ka4nkf (edited 01-15-2006).]

quote Originally posted by carnut122: Playing Devil's advocate here, but are you sure that it's oil and not coolant? Your photos from the bottom show that the bottom of your water pump has a "cleaned" area where some type of solvent has been passing over it. if it's coolant, I'd say that your water pump seal has gone out and the pump needs to be replaced.

I felt the leaking "stuff" and it's definitely oil, not coolant. It's also black in color.

Thanks for the heads up though!

--Tress

I've been told that it's easier to access the sending unit if you remove the battery and the plastic battery guard around it first...gives you a bit more room to access it. Also, be careful when removing the electrical connector on it. Over the years, the plastic gets brittle and tends to break easily.

[This message has been edited by litespd (edited 01-15-2006).]

quote Originally posted by Miss-Tress007: --cont.-- Here are pics from the underside of the car. The leak is on the passenger side, so we took these pics aiming up next to the rear tire. Help! --Tress

Looking at these pics and the others from the other thread I suspect the timing case cover seal or the harmonic balancer may require a sleeve as it has a groove cut in it made by the old seal. This area is often over looked by rebuilders and/or the person installing the balancer, they figure a new seal will cover any leak, not so.
The reason I say this is the oil pattern left on the lower coolant hose as it is wet on the bottom and side not on the top from the area of the oil sending unit. To add the reason you seem to be continuing to leak oil is because of the oil sling over the front of the block and the lower area of the water pump, too far away for the oil sending unit.
The only way to check that is to remove the belt, crankshaft pulley and then the balancer retaining bolt and balancer for a visiual inspection.
Notice the top picture (if I'm looking at it correctly) the bottom of the oil sender is dry on the forward side. I can't see all of it because of the coolant hose is blocking the rest of it.

Picked up the part today from AutoZone........

Couldn't get to it yesterday and it rained all day today, so I couldn't change it out. I'll keep my fingers crossed that the weather holds out tomorrow so I can take care of it. From the looks of the one in the car, this looks like the culprit 'cause the entire casing is gone. I spoke to the previous owner and he said that the car has a Melling (sp?) oil pump in it, so a small leak will actually look like a big leak 'cause there's so much oil being pumped through.

I picked up another tool set (to replace the ones that I lost in the storm) and hopefully the grips that I got will fit and I can get the darned thing off to begin with. For anyone who's done this before, any pointers or suggestions for a point of attack would be much appreciated.

Wish me luck!
~Tress

It looks like you can just put a big wrench on the black part of the housing, but don't, all that will do is twist the new sender in half. Ooops....

There's a metal hex just above the actual threads at the bottom of the sender, that's where you use your wrench. Use a couple turns of teflon tape on the threads, don't worry, it won't affect operation in any way. Wrap the teflon tape on the threads in the direction that has the tape being pressed in as opposed to being unwound.

No need to worry about getting oil into the sender, that happens automatically over time. Put some silicone grease on the connector to help keep water out.

JazzMan

it might make it easier to get the old one off and the new one tight ... if you use another wrench to hold the line that the OPSU bolts into to keep it from flexing

Haha....good thing you guys said something.

See those big adjustable pliers in the middle.....how about the grips on the left?

Well, guess what I was about to use to pull this puppy out of there? Get the picture? Guess I would have had to go buy another sensor switch real soon, huh. LOL

(That's why I love you guys! hehe )

--Tress

[This message has been edited by Miss-Tress007 (edited 01-17-2006).]

Finally got some time (and some good weather) so I replaced the part yesterday and drove the car around to test it out. I let it sit overnight, then drove it some more......

NO LEAKS! Problem fixed! The car actually idles alot smoother and sounds better.

Here's a pic of the old one (on the right) and the new one. It looks like the little rubber stopper is missing in the old one. (May explain the reason why there was oil leaking out. )

I tightened the new sender as much as I could, but there was still a bit of thread/teflon tape showing. Is this screwed in far enough or should I be concerned that there's tape visible?

Thanks guys!

~Tress

[This message has been edited by Miss-Tress007 (edited 01-19-2006).]

If it isn't leaking and is tight your done!
Good job.

The tape showing is alright. That is a tapered pipe thread, which means, the threads get tighter the further they are screwed in. You probably tightened it about as much as you could.
Glad you got that fixed.

The sender uses a tapered pluming thread. (It is a 1/8 inch NPT Fine fitting. Same as small pipe.)

DO NOT force it. NPT fittings are sealed by the taper in the threads. They will almost never seat fully into the fitting and you don't want them to. If you force them you can break the part or split the fitting. I've seen broken manifolds and other parts from people forcing tapered thread fitting and sensors too tight.

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Dr. Ian Malcolm: Yeah, but your scientists were so preoccupied with whether or not they could, they didn't stop to think if they should.
(Jurasic Park)

The Ogre's Fiero Cave (It's also at the top of every forum page...)

Most of these sensor come from the factory with sealant already on the threads ( usually red in color) and you do not need the Teflon tape. But you are ok looks good
Don

Also the red plug is to keep moisture out of the sensor.

[This message has been edited by ka4nkf (edited 01-19-2006).]

Thanks for the info guys. I appreciate your help.

Now.....on to the upgrades!

I'm waiting for my seats from Mr. Mikes, so stay tuned for more questions. LOL

~Tress

Hey 'Tress,
Greensboro is out I20 past Madison right? Nice little town, I used to have a customer there. Are you a member of the GA Fiero club BTW? I just joined last weekend...we meet the 2nd Saturday each month (location varies, but usually somewhere on the Northside of Atlanta); kind of a long ride from there, but it seems to be a good, knowledgable group and it could be a big help for a Fiero newbie.

http://www.gafiero.org/