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Oh this can't be good, where did this wire come from. by Capt Fiero
Started on: 09-22-2005 09:03 PM
Replies: 8
Last post by: Capt Fiero on 09-23-2005 10:06 PM
Capt Fiero
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Report this Post09-22-2005 09:03 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Capt FieroClick Here to visit Capt Fiero's HomePageSend a Private Message to Capt FieroDirect Link to This Post
Ok so I am still working in some issues with the car. I had an minor accident when the cradle dropped during the last tranny swap.

I found a loose wire. However the car seems to run and drive fine. With the exception of a error #19 a “short in my fuel pump circuit” code And sometimes Error #51 Master Reset.

Well I tried to get the damn idle learn procedure to work today and no dice.

For some stupid reason the car goes into open loop whenever it sits idling for any length of time. Ya I am at 205F and it is switching to open loop. But if I take it out on the road, giver a good romp it goes back to closed loop and will stay there until I stop for a min or two.

Ugh driving my nuts.

Ok back to that loose wire. Well in my insanity I traced it down.

There are 3 wires hooked to the alternator. One big fat wire bolted to the back and 2 in a plug on the underside of the alternator.
One is a larger red wire and the 2nd is a smaller red wire. Well it seems that the larger of the 2 red wires in the plug is my loose wire from when I dropped the cradle.
I checked using the ohm meter and double checked.

Can someone tell me where that wire is suppose to be hooked to.

I read in my schematic and can’t make heads of tails of it.

I wonder if this is why the O2 sensors are so damn slow as well. Reading a near constant 444mv

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85GT 5spd MSD Everything,4.9 With Nitrous. www.captfiero.com

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s550w
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Report this Post09-22-2005 10:26 PM Click Here to See the Profile for s550wSend a Private Message to s550wDirect Link to This Post
I have limited experience with wiring but, if a 4.3 votec from '93 is similiar...one should go to the battery...one will go to a "junction" to power acccesories. My dad shorted the wire to the junction and it would not run until I ran a line from the battery + to the junction to bypass the short. The back one should be a ground wire I would think. I suspect you are powering something in an abnormal manner???

My 2 cents worth of thought.

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Capt Fiero
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Report this Post09-22-2005 10:34 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Capt FieroClick Here to visit Capt Fiero's HomePageSend a Private Message to Capt FieroDirect Link to This Post
Ok the funny wire news update.

I forgot to mention this earlier. The Funny Wire is not hot, not hot when off. not hot when running. Not hot at all said the cat in that hat.

However when I take the not so hot funny wire and run it across the volt meter to the hot side of the battery I get solid 14.5 so the not so hot wire is a very very good ground. Why would the alternator have a ground wire comming out of it?

Where should this be going to?

Any Idea's

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triker
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Report this Post09-22-2005 11:03 PM Click Here to See the Profile for trikerSend a Private Message to trikerDirect Link to This Post
That is your "sensor" wire, telling the alternator what your battery voltage is. It Y's off your big fat battery wire about five inches from where it connects to the alternator.
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s550w
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Report this Post09-22-2005 11:14 PM Click Here to See the Profile for s550wSend a Private Message to s550wDirect Link to This Post
I got curious and looked in Haynes...

one red to battery and a split to elect. fuel injection.

one red to starter solenoid and a split to ignition switch.

Brown to ignition switch

There is a ground symbol for the "generator" as it refers to it.

Since there is also a wire from starter to the battery +, I suppose you could be recharging the battery that route instead of a direct link? It sounds like your wire goes to the positive terminal of the battery. My 4 cylinders have the big wire to the positive terminal and starter with a smaller wire crimped in at the battery + as well that I have never traced. I hope this helps.

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avengador1
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Report this Post09-23-2005 08:50 AM Click Here to See the Profile for avengador1Send a Private Message to avengador1Direct Link to This Post
As for you open loop problem, I have read in the service manual that the ECM can and will go into open loop during an extended idle.
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TK
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Report this Post09-23-2005 01:28 PM Click Here to See the Profile for TKSend a Private Message to TKDirect Link to This Post
Yeah, that's not unusual. The O2 will cool off at idle and stop switching. Totally normal. If you need it to stay in closed loop then a heated O2 is in order.

I have switched to those in a couple of vehicles for various reason. My Turbo Regal idled better in closed loop and my truck would cool off during idle emission testing and fail.

Do you need it to stay in closed loop at idle? If not, don't worry about it.

As for the switching speed, if the O2 is not an AC Delco and/or it's got more than 20k miles on it, it will definitely switch slower. I've tried NGK and some others and brand new AC's switch far faster. As time goes on the switch speed slows. I just change them every year or so.

[This message has been edited by TK (edited 09-23-2005).]

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Jncomutt
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Report this Post09-23-2005 09:13 PM Click Here to See the Profile for JncomuttSend a Private Message to JncomuttDirect Link to This Post
Just to confirm what others said. The brown wire in the 2 plug goes to the C500. The other wire in that 2plug goes connects to the fat red wire about 5" up. The fat red wire goes to batt...
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Capt Fiero
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Report this Post09-23-2005 10:06 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Capt FieroClick Here to visit Capt Fiero's HomePageSend a Private Message to Capt FieroDirect Link to This Post
Which means I need to figure out what plug it is suppose to go into on the C500

Ugh.

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85GT 5spd MSD Everything,4.9 With Nitrous. www.captfiero.com

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