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3800sc mistery connectors by ohio86se
Started on: 03-11-2005 07:09 PM
Replies: 6
Last post by: Darth Fiero on 03-12-2005 10:25 PM
ohio86se
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Report this Post03-11-2005 07:09 PM Click Here to See the Profile for ohio86seClick Here to visit ohio86se's HomePageSend a Private Message to ohio86seDirect Link to This Post
please look at these pistures and tell me what they are for. i took them off of the 97 3800sc gtp engine and I cant for the life of me identify them. im doing a swap into my 86 se with a 4 speed. i will not be using a egr so if any of these are that please advise.


NUMBER 1


NUMBER 2


NUMBER 3


NUMBER 4


NUMBER 5

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RCR
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Report this Post03-11-2005 08:20 PM Click Here to See the Profile for RCRSend a Private Message to RCRDirect Link to This Post
It's been a while since I looked at the connectors, but I think the top one is ABS related.
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FastFieros
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Report this Post03-11-2005 08:29 PM Click Here to See the Profile for FastFierosClick Here to visit FastFieros's HomePageSend a Private Message to FastFierosDirect Link to This Post
I will take a shot at them.

Number one - Dump it.. Evap
Number two - Yellow black pink on 97 I believe was the MAF
Number three - Brown Pink? Dump it ... It is either the oil level for the oil pan, or the EVAP ... or it might fit the boost bypass also...
Number 4 very important. Idle Air Control (IAC) next to TPS and MAF
Number five - dump it... EGR


Loyde

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Darth Fiero
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Report this Post03-12-2005 12:43 AM Click Here to See the Profile for Darth FieroClick Here to visit Darth Fiero's HomePageSend a Private Message to Darth FieroDirect Link to This Post
No3 looks like it could be pink and purple -- in which case that would be for the EVAP vacuum diagnostic switch (tells the PCM when EVAP is functioning).

Since we are on the subject of the EVAP system I think I should explain why I think you should NOT "dump it". The EVAP system is designed to remove (purge) gas vapors from the charcoal canister. The charcoal canister stores gasoline vapors from the gas tank.

Sounds like another one of those "useless" emissions devices, right? Well, not exactly. The stock Fiero fuel system (tank, fill, supply, etc) is a closed (non-vented) system. The gas cap has a one-way check valve in it that allows fresh air to enter the tank at a preset pressure differential so no significant vacuum can build in the tank (as fuel is used, or as the fuel cools). The problem is as the fuel is heated up (during engine operation and hot summer days) fuel expands and evaporates within the tank. These "fumes" have to go somewhere and you can't simply remove the EVAP system from the Fiero (or any other car) without causing a problem. Leaving the vent line open to atmosphere can result in raw gas fumes coming from the car when the fuel heats up; and plugging the vent line can result in a pressure build-up in the gas tank that can cause all kinds of problems.

But Darth, the evap canister is ugly and I don't want it crowding up my engine bay... No problem, there is more than enough room in the Fiero between the engine compartment bulkheads and outer body panels just in front of the rear tires to mount your evap canister. All you need to do is mount your EVAP solenoid (if your engine uses one) on it and run your wiring/vac lines to it and you are all set.

The EVAP system does NOT hurt performance, and it doesn't add any significant amount of weight to the car. What it does do is keep those annoying raw gas fumes from gathering around your car on those hot summer days; plus your engine gets to "burn" these 'useless' gas fumes which probably improves gas mileage by 0.01 mpg (I know, big deal).

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fieroX
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Report this Post03-12-2005 02:26 AM Click Here to See the Profile for fieroXSend a Private Message to fieroXDirect Link to This Post
my car always smells like fuel, but nothing is leaking. no evap here. oh well.
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ohio86se
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Report this Post03-12-2005 06:59 AM Click Here to See the Profile for ohio86seClick Here to visit ohio86se's HomePageSend a Private Message to ohio86seDirect Link to This Post
thanks guys. number 3 i believe i unplugged from a device that was mounted on the same bracket as the MAP sensor. on the subject of evap ...hows does the existing fiero evap system tie into the 3800sc system ( wiring and vacuum lines)? And the MAF do i keep it? Not to change subjects but if im going with a 4 speed do the pins at c1 and c2 pertaining to the auto tran get taken out?.So when the ECM get reprogrammed the codes for the auto get deleted? Or does that matter? It seems like im jumping around but Id like to understand the whole "wiring issue" better. Ive been studying the wiring diagrams and I've NOT fully decided to do the wiring myself or sub it out. ive got the wires stripped of loom and tape and im just studying it.

a big thanks to all and keep it coming

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[This message has been edited by ohio86se (edited 03-12-2005).]

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Darth Fiero
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Report this Post03-12-2005 10:25 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Darth FieroClick Here to visit Darth Fiero's HomePageSend a Private Message to Darth FieroDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by ohio86se:

thanks guys. number 3 i believe i unplugged from a device that was mounted on the same bracket as the MAP sensor.

Yup, that would probably be the EVAP diagnostic vacuum switch.

 
quote

on the subject of evap ...hows does the existing fiero evap system tie into the 3800sc system ( wiring and vacuum lines)?

The stock Fiero EVAP charcoal canister has 3 ports on it. 1 port (in the center of the top of the canister) goes to the steel line that leads to the gas tank or vapor tank (depending on what year Fiero you have). The smallest port at the very top of the canister goes to manifold vacuum, but you can also "tee" this in with the larger port right below it which gets hooked to the EVAP purge solenoid.

 
quote

And the MAF do i keep it?

MAF as in Mass Air Flow Sensor, yes you need that.

 
quote
Not to change subjects but if im going with a 4 speed do the pins at c1 and c2 pertaining to the auto tran get taken out?.So when the ECM get reprogrammed the codes for the auto get deleted? Or does that matter? It seems like im jumping around but Id like to understand the whole "wiring issue" better. Ive been studying the wiring diagrams and I've NOT fully decided to do the wiring myself or sub it out. ive got the wires stripped of loom and tape and im just studying it.

If you are going to run the manual trans then you can remove most all of the electrical connections that hook to the auto trans. Personally, I like to hook up the speed sensor so the computer can see vehicle speed and I also like to hook up a circuit to the trans range switch inputs on the PCM so anytime I hit the clutch the PCM will think I just shifted into neutral. I do this so the computer can more accurately control decel fuel cutoff and idle functions, but it is not absolutely necessary. Best thing to do is consult whoever is doing your tuning and ask them what they want you to do.

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