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3800 Experts by red88gt
Started on: 02-11-2005 09:22 PM
Replies: 13
Last post by: FastFieros on 02-15-2005 11:55 PM
red88gt
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Report this Post02-11-2005 09:22 PM Click Here to See the Profile for red88gtSend a Private Message to red88gtDirect Link to This Post
Well, I finally got around to replacing the crankshaft sensor in my Pontiac Transport with the 3800 engine. I'm hoping someone here has a trick for me. I'm trying to get the front pulley off from the dampner and the engine just spins when I turn the bolt in the center. There's a couple of slots in the pulley but I can't seem to find just the right tool to jam it up so it doesn't spin. Anybody have a trick ? It looks fairly easy after I get this pulley off & I'm guess I'm being lazy & don't want to crawl under & remove the flywheel cover to jam that up. Any suggestions ?
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htexans1
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Report this Post02-11-2005 09:24 PM Click Here to See the Profile for htexans1Send a Private Message to htexans1Direct Link to This Post
http://fastfieros.com or 3800v6superchargedfieros@yahoogroups.com If these guys cant help I guess its broken for life.
S.Williams

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MstangsBware
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Report this Post02-11-2005 09:26 PM Click Here to See the Profile for MstangsBwareSend a Private Message to MstangsBwareDirect Link to This Post
,,,,

[This message has been edited by MstangsBware (edited 02-11-2005).]

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MstangsBware
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Report this Post02-11-2005 10:23 PM Click Here to See the Profile for MstangsBwareSend a Private Message to MstangsBwareDirect Link to This Post

MstangsBware

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There is a special tool that GM makes that replaces the starter and holds the flywheel. Not forsure where you can get the part but sure from a GM dealer. I am not at home right now or I could give you the part numbers from my manuels. This is the proper way to do it or you can use a screwdriver and wedge it in the flywheel to hold it still.
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MstangsBware
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Report this Post02-11-2005 10:25 PM Click Here to See the Profile for MstangsBwareSend a Private Message to MstangsBwareDirect Link to This Post

MstangsBware

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Edit cause I hit the wrong button...........

[This message has been edited by MstangsBware (edited 02-11-2005).]

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FastFieros
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Report this Post02-11-2005 11:50 PM Click Here to See the Profile for FastFierosClick Here to visit FastFieros's HomePageSend a Private Message to FastFierosDirect Link to This Post
Yup, there is a nice Kent moore tool to hold the flywheel so the 110 Ft lb crank bolt can be broke loose. You can also use a nice BIG screw driver or something heavy duty to lock the flywheel. Usually 2 people make this easier.

I hope you also have the right tool to remove the crank damper. You cannot use a 3 jaw puller. It will damage the threads inside the crankshaft. AutoZone rents this special damper puller for the 3800's.

Loyde

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David DeVoe
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Report this Post02-12-2005 08:39 AM Click Here to See the Profile for David DeVoeSend a Private Message to David DeVoeDirect Link to This Post
Actually the torque on the balancer bolt if the balancer has never been removed before is closer to 300 ft lbs. Also if you try to use a standard pulller you WILL ruin the balancer by separating it where the inner and outer sections are vulcanized together. You must block the flywheel there is no other way to break the balancer bolt loose that I know of. In the plant we use a 600 ft lb air wrench to remove them. Get a long bar, lock up the flexplate and good luck.
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red88gt
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Report this Post02-12-2005 08:59 AM Click Here to See the Profile for red88gtSend a Private Message to red88gtDirect Link to This Post
Thanks to all for the advise. I'l be back at it this morning. Think I'll go with the big screwdriver in the flywheel & then the special puller, if I can break the bolt loose.
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skitime
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Report this Post02-12-2005 09:51 AM Click Here to See the Profile for skitimeSend a Private Message to skitimeDirect Link to This Post
I was able to remove mine with a visegrip locked in the flywheel. The visegrip was caught in one of the pressure plate bolts. I then used a breaker bar and a additional 2' cheater bar on that. Damn those things are put on tight. I wonder why they had to be so tight?

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Crow
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Report this Post02-12-2005 10:49 AM Click Here to See the Profile for CrowSend a Private Message to CrowDirect Link to This Post
I had that problem on a 3300 in an A-body. You can put a breaker bar on the bolt and place the handle against the subframe then tap the ignition switch to turn the engine over and loosen the bolt. Just make sure you know which way the engine will turn and brace the breaker bar carefully. If you mess up you could launch the breaker bar and hurt yourself. be careful and think.
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David DeVoe
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Report this Post02-12-2005 03:17 PM Click Here to See the Profile for David DeVoeSend a Private Message to David DeVoeDirect Link to This Post
Skitime, I think I can shed some light on why the balancer is so tite. Until the 90 M.Y the balancer was a slip fit and the bolt torque was quite a bit less. Then engineering was tearing some engines apart and found fretting corrosion between the crank key and the balancer keyway, also the keyway was slightly enlarged. The corrosion was caused by micro movement of the balancer. So we went to an interference fit and a torque spec of 150 nm + 76 degrees which translates to a clampload of approx 40k lbs and a final torque of 375 to 400 nm. In other words tite as hell. And yes in the plant we routinely hold the flexplate with visegrips......its the quick and easy way to do it.
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skitime
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Report this Post02-12-2005 04:57 PM Click Here to See the Profile for skitimeSend a Private Message to skitimeDirect Link to This Post
Thanks for shedding some light on this DeVoe.
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red88gt
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Report this Post02-15-2005 09:35 PM Click Here to See the Profile for red88gtSend a Private Message to red88gtDirect Link to This Post
Still fighting with this 3800 guys. I got the balancer bolt loose, it was a #@&*^ !. I was trying to take FastFieros advise and get the correct balancer puller from Autozone but the local AutoZone
store here has no idea what kind of puller to use for a GM 3800. They have a three arm puller (which everyone cautions against using) and a regular balancer puller which looks like a crows foot that you bolt to the balancer & then tighten the center bolt against the balancer center to pull out. The trouble with that one is I don't have any bolt holes that I can see unless I haven't removed enough. My balancer / pulley looks to be one piece with some molded rubber & metal in the center that doesn't seem to come apart, no bolts or holes that I can see. I'm used to seeing the pulley bolted to the balancer & you would use those holes to mount the balancer puller. Enlighten me guys, how's this thing come off ? What kind of puller do I ask for ? My manual says "remove balancer".
Big help .
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FastFieros
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Report this Post02-15-2005 11:55 PM Click Here to See the Profile for FastFierosClick Here to visit FastFieros's HomePageSend a Private Message to FastFierosDirect Link to This Post
Ok guy, here is what the puller looks like, and the flywheel holder just for reference.

The bolts are 1/4x24 if I remember correctly. The holes are very small in the harmonic damper. The bolts are about 4-6 inches long and pass through the puller and into the damper where they screw in. If the threads are lightly rusted, they will be difficult to screw into.

Loyde

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