My 2.8 is having some issues that have been going on for quite some time.
The issue is intermittent, but the symptons all tie together: jump tach, engine is missing (maybe down a cylinder), and there is a distinct loss of power.
From researching the issue the plugs have been replaced, the wires are pretty new (Accel 8mm), I sprayed the ignition module connections w/ WD40 (which helped for the first few minutes of the next drive) and replaced the ignition module this morning -- but the issue persists. The contacts on the inside the distributor cap looked good.
Does it sound like a bad coil?
TIA!!!
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03:49 PM
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fieroman87 Member
Posts: 647 From: Lancaster, PA Registered: Nov 2003
sounds like youre having the same problem i'm having... here's a sugestion, at night, have someone start your car and while they're doing that, take a look at what the coil is doing. you shouldn't have any light present so that you can see the arcing if there is any. do this with and without the coil wire attached to the distributor. if you see an arc, this is a bad thing. also think about replacing the pick-up coil as these tend to burn themselves out over time.
also pay close attention to the Accel wires as i have had these as well and they arced badly.
Also could be ignition module going bad, tach jumping is a strong indicator. (When you go to look at the engine in the dark as suggested above, allow your eyes at least 5 minutes to adjust to the darkness;10 would be better.)
I am going to lean twords your pigtail connector from the coil to the module. They are probably arcing together, and causing problems. When my car was stolen, they ripped the pigtail wires off, and now I am experiancing the same problem. My wires are stripped on the coil end and shoved in the coil with the plug stuck in on top to hold them in. They keep coming loose, and or arcing together and I experiance this problem.
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10:06 PM
p8ntman442 Member
Posts: 1747 From: portsmouth RI Registered: Sep 2003
The magnet in the distributor shaft assembly can't be damaged by the alternator or anything else in the car, but they have been known to crack (creating more poles and confusing the ignition module). Here's my old one:
You can see the crack as it runs by the rivet holding the pole piece in place. New shafts are still available, they run arouns $60 IIRC.
JazzMan
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10:12 PM
Dec 13th, 2004
Whuffo Member
Posts: 3000 From: San Jose, CA Registered: Jul 2003
Jumping tach with misfiring is classic symptom of ignition module on it's way to module heaven. Be prepared; it's usually only a few more miles until total failure..
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01:28 AM
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86_FiErO_GT Member
Posts: 266 From: Mill Creek,Washington,USA Registered: Jun 2003
I am going to lean twords your pigtail connector from the coil to the module. They are probably arcing together, and causing problems. When my car was stolen, they ripped the pigtail wires off, and now I am experiancing the same problem. My wires are stripped on the coil end and shoved in the coil with the plug stuck in on top to hold them in. They keep coming loose, and or arcing together and I experiance this problem.
hmm, I think that was the short wire that was replaced w/ an OEM replacement about five years ago (still in fresh heat protective wrap). I will check out that wire! thanks!
quote
Originally posted by JazzMan:
The magnet in the distributor shaft assembly can't be damaged by the alternator or anything else in the car, but they have been known to crack (creating more poles and confusing the ignition module). Here's my old one:
You can see the crack as it runs by the rivet holding the pole piece in place. New shafts are still available, they run arouns $60 IIRC.
JazzMan
interesting! I will pull the cap and check for that. Thanks!
quote
Originally posted by Whuffo:
Jumping tach with misfiring is classic symptom of ignition module on it's way to module heaven. Be prepared; it's usually only a few more miles until total failure..
replaced w/ Fiero Store one this past weekend, but symptons are still present. thanks!
quote
Originally posted by 86_FiErO_GT:
is it always doing it or only when the motor heats up?
It is intermittent, but I would say it does it 90% of the time when the engine is cold or hot. Idle is not horrible but not smooth, and the power is certainly down.
quote
Originally posted by joeformula88:
Maybe a bad tach filter? Causing a ground while it shouldn't sure would explain your problem.
tach is jumpy when issue is present, but the power/smoothness issue looks to point to a larger issue I believe. Thanks!
[This message has been edited by gt2437 (edited 12-13-2004).]
I didn't get a chance to check things out, but the car wouldn't start this morning. Plenty of crank, but no spark.
I pushed on all the plug wires on the distributor cap and the pigtails from the coil and the ignition module to ensure proper seat -- and then it started up.
The trip to work it ran perfect!! (only 5 miles on highway) Any thoughts? I know this morning's issue was from me mucking around, but I hadn't done anything w/ it in a few days.
Definitely seems like it must be related (as suggested) to possibly the cold and arcing of the wires.
Another possible issue is that the larger electrical connection to my ignition module has a broken clip (as long as I can remember), but it looks flush when seated.
If wiggling the wiring to the distributor makes it work, I'd bet that the pigtail is bad from the coil to the distributor, or the contacts are corroded. Unplug then and see what they look like.
i found the code 42 (new) is probably caused by the crappy new fiero store ignition module (https://www.fiero.nl/forum/Forum2/HTML/055973.html)....
Issue persists but I did find build up on the back of the stationary points of the rotor, of tiny bits of magnetic material. Looks like I need a new distributor shaft. No cracks, but its obviously deteriorating.
Thanks to all and especially Jazzman for the pic! Hopefully that will take care of it.
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09:29 PM
Jan 12th, 2005
debug Member
Posts: 203 From: Austin, Texas Registered: Nov 2004
The trip to work it ran perfect!! (only 5 miles on highway) Any thoughts? I know this morning's issue was from me mucking around, but I hadn't done anything w/ it in a few days.
quote
Originally posted by gt2437:
probably caused by the crappy new fiero store ignition module
Man, that's pretty much the same thing that happened to me with the ignition module I got from the fiero store It ran beautifully until it warmed up I guess. Then I couldn't even get it to start. Replaced it with one from Autozone and it seems to be good now. Idle is off just a bit, but I can live with that. I can't believe that all the modules from the Fiero Store are crappy... That just doesn't make sense. Hope everything goes ok with your car too
-Randy
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01:03 AM
FieroMGDriver Member
Posts: 961 From: Concord, NC USA Registered: Nov 2001
The first thing I would do is remove the distributor cap. Then see how much play the rotor and distributor shaft have in them. I am willing to bet that the intermittent problems you describe have to do with the shaft of the distributor moving around too much.
------------------ -Matthew 01 325i My Transportation 87 GT My Toy 86 GT SOLD to ChuckLS1
I had the same exact problem on my Iron Duke and wound up stripping the end of the wires and soldering them directly to the coil connectors. It was annoying as all get out. Solved my problem though. It sounds very much like that is what it is...since my messing with the wires one day is what kept me from being stranded...that's how I found out that's what it was. Also going over bumps would trigger it.
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10:28 PM
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Jan 13th, 2005
Mickey_Moose Member
Posts: 7568 From: Edmonton, AB, Canada Registered: May 2001
Sounds like the pick-up coil is the problem (it is the one in the picture above)...I would also replace the module with a GM one. It has been documented many times that many people have problems with aftermarket ones.
Tim
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11:32 AM
Dirty Harry Member
Posts: 347 From: Orlando, FL, USA Registered: Jun 2003
I've had this problem for some time. Engine drops to about half power (still runs smooth though) various times hot or cold. Sometimes lasts for few seconds, may last for ten minutes. Even happens on startup at times. I've installed metal vacuum lines, new plugs & wires, new module but will do the above suggestions. I'll advise results. If anybody pinpoints this problem, please let us know. I'm sure many people are also living with this.
------------------ 87 GT Maroon & 88 Formula Red
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11:49 AM
Jan 15th, 2005
Dirty Harry Member
Posts: 347 From: Orlando, FL, USA Registered: Jun 2003
Before you spend a bunch on new ignition parts, make sure the connectors at the bottom of your distributor are seated good and not corroded. I had that same problem, tried another pickup and it seemed to fix it. Then a few weeks latter it was back. It was the connectors, buy removeing them to replace the modual I unknowning cleaned the contacts some, but they went bad again. I brought new connectors and haven't had a problem since, like a year now. One other thing, if the locking clips are broken on any of those connectors, replace the connector or forever be opening your engine compart to push it back in and get running again. Remember how old these cars are, connectors that old tend to get an ugly green inside.
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12:48 PM
Bradbitz11 Member
Posts: 1826 From: Kawkawlin, MI Registered: Dec 2002
I just had the exact same problem...In the process of replacing my pick up coil, the distributor bushing (on the housing) came out with the shaft, after much work. I replaced the whole distributor with a rebuilt unit. The only difference is that the "points" on the distributor are now a very heavy-duty "star" inside a ring with teeth pointing inward. It's a much stronger and less problem prone unit, at least by the book.
Replacing my distributor assembly solved all problems. It might cost more, but you can be sure that you won't be having issues for a long while. Mine cost about $130 after core exchange.
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07:23 PM
Feb 10th, 2005
Dirty Harry Member
Posts: 347 From: Orlando, FL, USA Registered: Jun 2003
What finally fixed mine was to just replace the distributor with a remanufactured one from AutoZone. Lifetime guarantee and it's a better design than the original; haven't had a lick of trouble from the old Duke since then...
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05:22 PM
Feb 11th, 2005
fieromadman Member
Posts: 2217 From: Oconomowoc WI, USA Registered: Jan 2003
when i still had the 2.8 i experianced this problem a few times. once the ignition coil had a bad ground so i put di-electric grease under it and it took care of it, second, one of the wire connectors on the coil (the gray one) had a bad plastic clip so it kept comming off after a while of driving. Ordered a new one from the fiero store and never had a problem again.
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12:40 AM
Feb 14th, 2005
FieroMGDriver Member
Posts: 961 From: Concord, NC USA Registered: Nov 2001
The only difference is that the "points" on the distributor are now a very heavy-duty "star" inside a ring with teeth pointing inward. It's a much stronger and less problem prone unit, at least by the book.
This is exactly what my new distributor looks like. When I opened the box and saw the different design, I was pleasantly suprised. It came from Carquest Auto Parts. I would highly recommend this style to anyone that needs to replace their distributor. I found this picture on NAPA's website. You can see the design difference in the contact points between the old style and this star shaped one.
------------------ - Matthew
Black, Wingless '87 GT
[This message has been edited by FieroMGDriver (edited 02-14-2005).]