I have more of the 1" lowering ball joints. The last batch I had ordered 8 pair of each but only recieved 4 pairs of each. This time I have ordered and I have received 30 pairs of each. 30 pairs for the 84-87 and 30 pairs for the 88's. The first ones I gave out free for R&D but I did not get a lot of feedback. The little feedback I did recieve was encouraging so I had this new batch made. These I will be selling for $69.00 per pair. Since these are longer they should be tach welded in the swing arms and you will need to watch the lenght of the sway bar links. They will need to be lenghtened 1" also from what I have seen. I may offer longer link kits in the future for these lowering ball joints.

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PLEASE NOTE MY NEW ADDRESS

Rodney Dickman's Fiero accessories
7604 Treeview Drive
Caledonia, WI 53108
(262) 835-9575

www.rodneydickman.com

I want a set but ive killed my car/ bike budget for the week allready.....ill hit you up in two weeks.

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1984 Indy Fiero 3.4L 4spd
www.cardomain.com/id/donk_316

i just received mine, everyone else better jump on this before they are gone.

quote Originally posted by joshua riedl: i just received mine, everyone else better jump on this before they are gone.

I've jumped..hope to have them installed in the next 2 weeks!! Still hope stock lace 15" wheels won't have a clearence issue, but hey if they do it just gives me an excuse to get new wheels...hehe

Dan

edit:if someone knows of a swaybar link that is 1 inch longer, let me know so I know what to ask for at the part store.

Thanks,

Dan

[This message has been edited by DanFiero (edited 12-03-2004).]

auto zone has sway bar links on the shelf.

quote Originally posted by joshua riedl: auto zone has sway bar links on the shelf.

I'll have to check them out!! Thanks. By the way since my fiero's our currently in storage, whats the current length of a Fiero sway bar link? Or more to the point, how long of one will I need??

Thanks,

Dan

I was one of the persons doing the preliminary testing for Rodney and notice no need to use longer swarbar links... you will however need to raise the stop on the control arm that acts as a steering stop or else there will be drag between the rim and the control arm. This is because you are effectively raising the spindle one inch so it can no longer contact the stock steering stop... welding a small piece of steel barstock will suffice as a correction to this problem and won't take too long at all.

Rodney

I would really like to try a pair for my 88!
How much should I paypal including shipping to Netherlands?

Thanks
Iwan

[This message has been edited by fiero-iwan (edited 12-04-2004).]

I would really like to try a pair for my 88!
How much should I paypal including shipping to Netherlands?

Postal air is $25.00 or Global Priority mail (faster) is $28.00. I send it as a used auto part.

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PLEASE NOTE MY NEW ADDRESS

Rodney Dickman's Fiero accessories
7604 Treeview Drive
Caledonia, WI 53108
(262) 835-9575

www.rodneydickman.com

Rodney

94 dollar sent with paypal.
I chose $25 shipping.
Look forward to seeing them arrive !!

Iwan

The '88s will require a 1" longer end link or the tie rod and sway bar will hit when when the steering wheel is turned 3/4 to 1 turn. On the '88, the tie rod passes under the sway bar to connect to the steering arm on the knuckle. Normally there is about an inch clearance between them.
The new ball joint moves the knuckle 1" higher (further away from the LCA) and thus closer to the sway bar which is fixed to the LCA by the end link.

The picture on the left is with Rodney's ball joint and the stock end link. The picture on the right is a temp fix with all thread rod and an additional 1" spacer.
I helped install these on Sparkles' car and they work great. The end link is the only problem and that is an easy fix, especially so if Rodney offers some parts for this.

quote Originally posted by L67Formula: The '88s will require a 1" longer end link or the tie rod and sway bar will hit when when the steering wheel is turned 3/4 to 1 turn. On the '88, the tie rod passes under the sway bar to connect to the steering arm on the knuckle. Normally there is about an inch clearance between them. The new ball joint moves the knuckle 1" higher (further away from the LCA) and thus closer to the sway bar which is fixed to the LCA by the end link. The picture on the left is with Rodney's ball joint and the stock end link. The picture on the right is a temp fix with all thread rod and an additional 1" spacer. I helped install these on Sparkles' car and they work great. The end link is the only problem and that is an easy fix, especially so if Rodney offers some parts for this.

So do you know if this will be a problem on the 87' then? I pm'd Sparkles to see how he liked them or if he has had a problem, but haven't gotten a reply. Just really want to know if the ride is changed or if it's rougher say compared to lowering springs.

Thanks,

Dan

[This message has been edited by DanFiero (edited 12-06-2004).]

quote Originally posted by The Aura: I was one of the persons doing the preliminary testing for Rodney and notice no need to use longer swarbar links... you will however need to raise the stop on the control arm that acts as a steering stop or else there will be drag between the rim and the control arm. This is because you are effectively raising the spindle one inch so it can no longer contact the stock steering stop... welding a small piece of steel barstock will suffice as a correction to this problem and won't take too long at all.

Is this on an 88 ?

The Aura is the guy who did the '84-87 so he is the one to ask about those.
Spring rate is unchanged and ride quality is the same as before. I have not flogged the car so I can't comment on changes in cornering.
I'll email Sparkles about the PM.

doesn't this change the geometry of the arms?

I'm having trouble picturing how a ball joint can lower the car. I know a little about the 88 suspension having replaced springs, shocks and end-links, but I just can't visualize how the ball joint can lower the car. Any help here? Is the ball joint just physically 1 inch shorter? It's hard for me to visualize a ball joint being 1 inch shorter.

And how hard are these to install? And if you put on a 1" drop spring would it drop the car 2"? I think it would and it would also fix the endlink problem, as I have 1" drop springs and the end-links are nearly too long.

[This message has been edited by jscott1 (edited 12-06-2004).]

quote Originally posted by jscott1: I'm having trouble picturing how a ball joint can lower the car. I know a little about the 88 suspension having replaced springs, shocks and end-links, but I just can't visualize how the ball joint can lower the car. Any help here? And how hard are these to install?

There are several threads in the archives discussing how this works with lots of nice pictures but, to put it simply:

The top of the spring attaches to the chassis, the bottom attaches to the lower A-arm. If you move the lower A-arm down, the chassis will follow (remember, the spring length will no change). Since the height of the spindle is determined by the wheel/tire selection, it cannot change. Ergo, the body will drop if you drop the lower A-arm.

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Roy

double-click on this link to follow my interior build-up https://www.fiero.nl/forum/Forum1/HTML/023174.html

Blue 87 GT w/ 4th generation Firebird interior.
Suncoast Fieros

Judged "Best Custom Interior" at the 20th Anniversary Show @ Pontiac, Mich - 7/2003
Judged "Best Custom Interior" at the 8th Annual Fiero Fun Weekend @ Daytona - 3/2004

quote Originally posted by jscott1: I'm having trouble picturing how a ball joint can lower the car. I know a little about the 88 suspension having replaced springs, shocks and end-links, but I just can't visualize how the ball joint can lower the car. Any help here? Is the ball joint just physically 1 inch shorter? It's hard for me to visualize a ball joint being 1 inch shorter. And how hard are these to install? And if you put on a 1" drop spring would it drop the car 2"? I think it would and it would also fix the endlink problem, as I have 1" drop springs and the end-links are nearly too long.

1" longer actually - they raise the knuckle up an inch from the lower control arm.. which lowers the car an inch

quote Originally posted by Kohburn: 1" longer actually - they raise the knuckle up an inch from the lower control arm.. which lowers the car an inch

Exactly !!
I am currently working on this install and will have everything cleaned up, painted and back on by this weekend I hope.
I was going to wait and post all the pics when I have finished but just so some will have a better idea of what it looks like and can better picture it in there mind. Side by side , 1 new drop ball joint ( one on the left) and stock ball joint (one on the right)

I'll start another thread when I am finished and post more pics.

[This message has been edited by Zoom88 (edited 12-07-2004).]

Just got mine today, just waiting on new bushings from the Fiero Store and I'll hopefully have them on in the next week or 2.

Dan

Suppose this means I should be shopping for new rear springs to bring the back down and inch.

quote Originally posted by Zoom88: Exactly !!

Thanks for the picture Zoom88 and verbal description, MrFixit58.

Now that I have seen them, what about my two questions?

1) Does a 1" drop spring lower the car another inch?
2) Does the 1" drop spring compensate for the endlink length? i.e. you won't need longer end links?

Thanks.

- Jonathan

[This message has been edited by jscott1 (edited 12-06-2004).]

quote Originally posted by jscott1: Thanks for the picture Zoom88 and verbal description, MrFixit58. Now that I have seen them, what about my two questions? 1) Does a 1" drop spring lower the car another inch? 2) Does the 1" drop spring compensate for the endlink length? i.e. you won't need longer end links? Thanks. - Jonathan

From what I understand , yes it will drop another inch. I have springs with 1 coil cut now (about a 1" drop) so I will be able to let you know for sure this weekend when I get it back together, I will also post some before and after pics.
I thought about the same thing on the endlinks , will find this out also !!!

(This is a copy from the other thread, it may be more pertinent in here than the mall)

Well, I got my car back with these installed today!! I do have pictures, but with the temp at about 10 below windchiil and the loss of feeling in my fingers by the time I got the car warmed up, picture taking was not the best conditions considering where I was parked (non-flat surface for comparison shot). I did measure and it looks like it may have gone down 1' to 1'1/4 (need to park on flat surface to be sure of total). I drove it for about 6 to 8 miles and the ride felt the same as normal, so I'm sure the ride is not changed at all for the worse. However I am limited to 40 to 45 miles an hour until I can get an alignment done which is on hold till I can complete the lowering with rear lowering springs.

The mechanic said he didn't notice any clearance problems with the Sway bar end links, bump stop, or rim clearance. I did notice a clunk when I cranked the wheel to get out of the parking lot, but as I hate temps colder than 30 degrees, I chose to park the car in the storage facility till the temps come up and I can get down and crawl around to see how it looks!! At that time if i can get some pictures I will. I plan on working on the rear before or at the latest in March so then I will pull the front wheels off and take some good pictures of these on a stock suspension.

One more thing is they did not weld them in as they said they went in way tighter than OEM balljoints so they did not see a reason to tack weld them. I guess we'll see!!!

Another big Kudos to you Rodney...Thanks!!

Dan

I'll see if the pics I took can show a difference. Not quite the right angle, but it's all I have right now, the lower picture is after installation. Remember that the rear is not lowered yet.

Hey DanFiero,
I hope you re-read this link. That 'clunk' you heard leaving the mechanics probably was your sway bar getting hit by the endlink because you didn't lenghthen the links by an inch also. Your mechanic didn't notice clearance issues because he obviously didn't turn the wheel when checking. Don't get me wrong, as I didn't think of it either. See L67Formula's pics in the middle of this page. https://www.fiero.nl/forum/Forum2/HTML/057689.html
Good luck and nice car,
John

I can't be the only one who thinks these are not safe in some way...

Hey, don't get me wrong ~ I don't think they are not safe. I think they are great and they fit exceptionally well when I pressed them in, but you do need to do the follow up steps. I got longer links at Checkers for the huge sum of $6, and welding a stop tab will be a breeze for me too! I am very happy with them.

quote Originally posted by Skybax: I can't be the only one who thinks these are not safe in some way...

At first glance, they're kind of unconventional... but unsafe? Care to expand on that?

Other than the balljoint itself, and possibly the extensions for the swaybar end links (not a big deal) nothing has changed. As long as the balljoint does it's job (no reason why it shouldn't work as well as any other balljont) everything should be fine.
Actually, I like the idea.

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Raydar
88 3.4 coupe...........

Coming soon...
88 Formula, presently under the knife.
Read Nealz Nuze!

[This message has been edited by Raydar (edited 03-13-2005).]

quote unsafe? Care to expand on that?

I have no evidence, nor am I saying they are unsafe. I am only questioning an aftermarket product, like it's done so many times on the forum, only this one involves the safety of the vehicle. These should be looked at more carefully than shift knobs.

quote nothing has changed

Come on now... what used to be a ball joint pressed into a control arm is now a ball joint sitting on top of a tall tower. It's been changed drasticly.

The only thing I'm saying is, after working on cars for 20 years, and seeing many suspension related failures on factory designs, when I look at those it gives me a feeling of concern.

Auto makers spend millions on research and development, and they still have failures. As far as I know, the research and development on these lowering ball joints are just a few forum members. Has anyone installed these ball joints and taken their car to a test facility for hard evasive manuvers at highway speeds?

When I look at these ball joints, I think of this...

http://www.consumerreports.org/main/detailv4.jsp?CONTENT%3C%3Ecnt_id=46 5657&FOLDER%3C%3Efolder_id=10875

I have seen many lower ball joint failures and have had 2 happen to me personally. It's nothing to take lightly.

What I should have said was.....

"I can't be the only one who thinks these might not be safe in some way"

[This message has been edited by Skybax (edited 03-13-2005).]

Rodney recommends welding them in presumably to make them more robust and less likely to fail. The higher height of the ball joint does seem like it might want to unseat, but the tack weld should compensate.

I just installed them on my 88 Mera with longer end links and like the way the car looks. Now I will drive it for a while and see how I feel about the handling. I do notice a tendency to rub somewhat at low parking lot speeds when making a tight turn. However, I am running stock 265 x 50 X 15s on the car.

quote Originally posted by Skybax: <snip> I have seen many lower ball joint failures and have had 2 happen to me personally. It's nothing to take lightly...

I understand your concern. That would make me a bit wary, too.

Just on the face of things, it looks like they may exert a bit more leverage on the end of the "outside" control arm in a turn. Not completely sure that's true, though.
Wouldn't stop me from buying a pair if I were in the market. But I would pay attention, as I would after doing *any* mod.

[This message has been edited by Raydar (edited 03-13-2005).]

Well, I finally got the car up on stands and had a chance to take some pictures. The car is a stock 87' GT. The sway bar links do need to be replaced as they do hit at full lock turn (see picture).

Here's a picture of the balljoint installed:

If someone knows the part number or the make and model that the longer end links come from, please let me know!!

thanks,

Dan

[This message has been edited by DanFiero (edited 03-31-2005).]

https://www.fiero.nl/forum/Forum2/HTML/060015.html

Check this thread for recent info... sounds like a solution is being formulated as we speak.

Thanks for the pics! I'm feeling good about this mod. Always wanted to tweak the fender gap without having to lower the whole car...

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Patrick W. Heinske -- LZeitgeist@aol.com
1988 Red Fiero Formula Convertible

[This message has been edited by LZeitgeist (edited 03-15-2005).]

I updated my progress on longer swaybar endlinks in the other thread for thsoe that are interested.

https://www.fiero.nl/forum/Forum2/HTML/060015.html#lastpost

Just FYI, mine are on a stock 87 GT

Dan

hey rodney, how come I don't see drop ball joints for the 84-87 on your website?

i'm going to get some 90* zerk fittings so i can grease them without removing the wheel, i recommend everyone else does the same thing.

quote Originally posted by joshua riedl: i'm going to get some 90* zerk fittings so i can grease them without removing the wheel, i recommend everyone else does the same thing.

an angled grease nipple? yeah they are cheap and most hardware store carry them.. I install them on my poly bushings