All,

The culprit car is my 88 coupe in which I have installed new poly bushings. I wasn't to sharp on bushings so I started with the rear bushings first. They proved to be no problem. I removed the links and arm assemblies and burned out the old bushings. I got plenty of extra grease with my new prothane bushings and I did not get stingy on grease application during assembly.

Before the bushings, the car drove fine and acceleration/deceleration was normal. Now I have a torque steering issue. Under acceleration it feels like the rear of the car wants to come right, which then pushes the nose to the left in an effort to compensate. I thought it was just an alignment issue. I then chaged all the bushings in the front along with all new ball joints (uppers and lowers) and all new tie-rods. The front shocks are brand new (20 miles) and the rear struts have about 3K on them.

The car has never had a problem of this kind untill after I installed the new poly in the back (owned for 10 years). I drove it for a week before I did the front end, so the problem lies some where in the back where I worked last.

I had the car aligned today and the torque steering is not as bad, but it is still there. The algnment specs all looked good and the shop found no problems. This problem did not occur untill I changed the rear bushings. So the problem logically is there. The car was aligned only 1 year ago and there have been no curb checks or any damage to the car since. The motor mounts are new, and a crack in the cradle was welded and beefed up last year.

The shop I took it to is going to recheck it with another mechanic on Monday but if I can check it out and find a problem before and fix it, that would be ideal. Looking for some ideas here. This did not come up untill AFTER I changed the rear bushings. There were no problems untill then.

Thanks for looking.
88Ironduke

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Pilots with out maintainers are just pedestrians with a cool jacket and sunglasses.
I.Y.A.M.Y.A.S.

I had a similiar problem on my 88 and it turned out to be one of the long bolts that hold the lower suspension links (from the cradle to the spindle) was bent. As the suspension moved, the bent bolt made it change toe in/toe out and drive really crazy.

Are you speaking of the long bolt that connects the links to the rear spindal? Anyone else?

88Ironduke

Yes, the long bolt that holds the outer ends of the links to the hub carrier. That bolts needs plenty of torque and can work loose, causing the symptoms you describe.

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'87 Fiero GT: Low, Sleek, Fast, and Loud
'90 Pontiac 6000 SE AWD: None of the Above

Luck, Fate and Destiny are words used by those who lack the courage to define their own future

Something is loose or badly worn. That's the only way you can get torque steer on a Fiero.

Phil

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86 GT TTops, 3.4 Auto.....bought from Doug of Fiero Warehouse

GM auto tech for 27 years. Specializing in electrical and computer problems. I will never be able to return as an auto tech again. I get EXTREME satisfaction helping others and will go to Extreme levels to help you if you need help. I have LOTS of free time on my hands. This forum and the help I give, allow me to have a purposeful life. Bring on the problems......LOL.

Thanks guys, I'll check those two bolts in the back and re-torque them. A+ for ya.

thanks
88Ironduke

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Pilots with out maintainers are just pedestrians with a cool jacket and sunglasses.
I.Y.A.M.Y.A.S.

Yep, if that long bolt that connects the two lateral links to the bottom of the knuckle comes loose the wheel will turn under acceleration and braking forces, making the rear of the car steer left and right. Mine was loose once and I could actually make controlled lane changes with just the throttle.

Based on your description I would say the problem is on the left side.

JazzMan

quote Originally posted by GTDude: Something is loose or badly worn. That's the only way you can get torque steer on a Fiero. Phil

On an '88 anyway...

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'87 Fiero GT: Low, Sleek, Fast, and Loud
'90 Pontiac 6000 SE AWD: None of the Above

Luck, Fate and Destiny are words used by those who lack the courage to define their own future

Walk up to your car and grab each rear wheel at 9 and 3. Now try to push/pull and see if there is any movement. If there is then the long bolt that goes thru the lower links and spindle are loose. To tighten properly you need to jack the car up and then place a jack stand under the spindle(s) (to load the suspension) then losen and torque all the bolts. I dont have my manual in front of me but make sure you torque and add the extra 90deg where specified!

If they keep working loose (like mine did) I had to buy that long bolt for each side thru GM.

I put the car up on ramps and gave some extra torque to the bolts in question. The passenger side didn't budge, but I got a full turn and a half on the drivers side. I took for a short drive and it seems much better. I'm gonna get it looked at again at the alignment shop torrow and make sure everything is buttoned up right.

Thanks yall.

88Ironduke

Get those bolts as tight as you can, unless you're a 400 lb power lifter, in which case get them tight but don't break them. If they get loose it can wallow out the hole through the knuckle, in which case it is time to buy a new knuckle.

JazzMan

i had to re-tighten various rear susp. bolts three or four times after i went poly in my 88. eventually they stayed. Don't know why (poly squishing/breaking in?), but not suprised you had to re-tighten it. don't be suprised if you have to do it yet again in the next few months. fortunately it's really easy to test; flat road hands off the steering...go from 0% throttle to 100%, then after a few seconds back to 0%. if the car changes directions with throttle changes AT ALL somethins' loose.

Thanks for the input everyone. Thats why I love this FORUM!!!!!!

88Ironduke
Pauly