I finally completed the installation of my water/alcohol injection system and the results have been great! The system is set to start injecting at 5 psi and so far, no detonation (the car always had WOT detonation after the turbo install). Since the installation the boost has been increased from 8 to 10 psi and I've bumped the timing tables up 5 degrees across the board with no detonation noted. I'm planning on bumping the timing up as much as it will handle but will stay at 10 psi due to the fact that this is a stock 88k engine.
After looking over the rear section of the car I opted to mount the pump up front as opposed to the trunk area. This solved the H20 resevoir problem. After I'm completely confident of the system I will flip the pump to the underside of the sparetire tub so its out of sight.
The manifold top was removed to drill and tap the Hobbs switch mounting location. Other options are to tap a vacuum line and mount the switch somewhere off the engine.
I determined this location (below the IAT sensor) to be the best nozzle area on the charge pipe.
The relay was mounted in close proximity to the power block to facilitate installation. 12 volt switched power was pick up from the pink wire in the main wiring loom. 12 volt unswitched ws picked up from the block to the rear left in the photo. Ground to the gnd point below the battery tray.
The LED indicator light can be seen to the left of the boost gauge.
Yeah TK, its working out better (and easier) than I expected. Also, many thanks to you and your excellent program that allows me to easily do what I need to with the spark and fuel tables.
Darn it, I meant for the pictures to show in the post. Gotta fix that....
Rod
Edit: I can't speel tonight...
[This message has been edited by X86GT (edited 05-13-2004).]
Looks great! I have always been fascinated by this mod, yet have not had anything that I can actually do it to
I was wondering about the placement of the nozzle being that it's right there in front of the AIT.
Is that not going to cause some issues being that you are going to spraying the AIT sensor w/ H2o / alcohol, or is it in such a fine mist, and the addition of pressure w/ the flow of air going past going to negate this fact?
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01:24 AM
hugh Member
Posts: 5563 From: Clementon,NJ,USA Registered: Jun 2000
I used an Aquamist and added a water level sensor so the motor wouldn't run when the water level was too low.Those pumps are too expensive to take a chance on running them dry.
------------------ #1112 Question my ability,question my intelligence,never question my integrity!
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06:48 AM
TaurusThug Member
Posts: 4271 From: Simpsonville, SC Registered: Aug 2003
The picture of the nozzle placement makes it appear closer to the IAT sensor than it actually is. With the flow through the charge pipe I doubt the the sensor is getting sprayed.
If you check my website I have a major parts list and vendors for the system. I haven't done an exact tally but estimate the total cost of parts to be around $140.00 plus or minus a few bucks. The actual install doesn't take long at all. The time consuming portion is tracking and chasing parts.
The turbo is a Garret T-3 .63 A/R
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10:55 AM
Ales Member
Posts: 249 From: Milwaukee, WI Registered: Mar 2003
Im planning to buy this turbo kit myself, and I just need to know how fast is your car wiht this turbo system, do you have any 1/4 mile times ???, also does the car had detonation also when it was at 8 psi ??? didnt you got rid of the detonation when you relocated the air filter in your car ???
Sorry no 1/4 mile times. My best pre-water injection 0-60 G-Tech at 5-6 psi has been 6.24 seconds. Don't know how accurate this is but it works out to approximately 14.75 quarter mile time on the calculator. I'm shooting for a high 5 second average 0-60 (with this old engine). I haven't G-Tech'd the car yet but will soon. I'm still playing with the timing tables.
The car had detonation at 8 psi after initial turbo installation. Not real bad detonation but it was audible and thus damaging to the engine. I attributed a lot of it due to picking up the already hot air from the engine compartment with the kits air intake and filter set-up. So I fabricated a piping set-up to relocate the intake air back to the stock fender well location and tested it on what happened to be a cool day (for South Texas) and everything was great, no detonation. When the ambient air temp came back up the detonation came back with it. Not as severe as before the intake mod but was there none the less. My interim solution was to back the boost off to 5-6 psi which solved the detonation problem until I decided which intercooling set-up to use.
edited for clarity
[This message has been edited by X86GT (edited 05-14-2004).]
Nice, clean and good looking setup! Maybe I will add a similar system after getting everything to run OK. What spark timing table did you start out with?
I'm verrrry naive on Turbo' mods but I do read a lot. Anyway this water injection business cropped up to my knowledge in the mid 70's. I bought a kit from J.C. Whitney (or was it Honest Charlie?) for my slant 6 Dodge van. It was nothing more than a plastic resevoir, some tubing and a remotely located needle valve for fine tuning. The tubing connected to your intake vaccum. I paid less than 20 bucks and it worked well. More pedal power and all that. One could make their own with a needle valve from plumbing supply, a piece of tubing and if money is real tight make your washer bottle double as the resevoir. Water injection in those days was more for densifing the air charge than for cooling.
The item described above is much better of course due to the pressure pump action at W.O.T. and the on-off action. Now back to 2K4 !!
3.4DOHC/5speed swap coming soon..(gathering part's now!)
