I know how to do the toe, but what do you do to move the caster and camber, what do I adjust? I need to know this because I have to drive the car a decent amount of miles to get it to the alignment shop on the highway, and I have to have the car somewhat aligned. Thanks for all the help, pictures whould be greatly appreciated.
------------------ Gold 86 Fiero GT Future plans: Not to start on fire!
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09:56 PM
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Racingman24 Member
Posts: 2304 From: Land of 10,000 Idiots Registered: Apr 2003
Well, that depends. I'm assuming you are talking about your 86 GT. In which case, if you do not have adjustable ball joints, then the camber and caster are set from factory and cannot be adjusted [IIRC] I am 99% positive you need the adjustable balljoints to properly align your car if it has been lowered, if it has not, then you should be ok with the factory specs.
Eric
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Used is such a harsh term. . . I perfer "Previously obsessed over" ;)
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10:43 PM
Golden86 Member
Posts: 1191 From: Glen Ellyn IL Registered: Jan 2004
The toe-in is what will really tear up your tires, as long as you set that you should be able to drive it for 100 miles easy without doing damage. How far do you need to go?
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01:30 AM
rogergarrison Member
Posts: 49601 From: A Western Caribbean Island/ Columbus, Ohio Registered: Apr 99
The toe-in is what will really tear up your tires, as long as you set that you should be able to drive it for 100 miles easy without doing damage. How far do you need to go?
Yep, just setting the toe will be fine to get to the alignment shop. Moog makes the adjustable ball joints for Fiero. Caster and Camber are set by using shims and washers on the mounting bolts of the upper 'A' arm. Wouldnt hurt to soak them both down on both sides with PB Blaster the day before you take it. The can really rust in their, then you have a big problem. Using the adjustable slotted joints helps eliminate having to take the arm off to set it.
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06:34 AM
Golden86 Member
Posts: 1191 From: Glen Ellyn IL Registered: Jan 2004
Ok, thanks. so I don't have to get the adjustable ball joints? My car is lowered, can it still be aligned to specs without the adjustable ball joints? Oh, and someone said something about a cady?
[This message has been edited by Golden86 (edited 03-30-2004).]
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11:55 AM
Whuffo Member
Posts: 3000 From: San Jose, CA Registered: Jul 2003
The caster is adjusted by changing spacers on the upper control arm bolt - this was set at the factory and unless your car has been damaged it won't need adjusting again. The camber is adjusted at the upper ball joint - the factory joint has a limited amount of adjustment which is done by rotating the ball joint 180 degrees in its mount on the upper control arm. Moog "Problem Solver" ball joints have slotted mounting holes and can be adjusted more easily.
Make sure that your ball joints, control arm bushings, and tie rod ends are tight and right before attempting an alignment!
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03:51 PM
rogergarrison Member
Posts: 49601 From: A Western Caribbean Island/ Columbus, Ohio Registered: Apr 99
Lowering it may make a spec adjustment hard to get unless you change the joints. Not necessarily though, you wont know till they spec it. By lowering it, you have changed the front and rear suspension geometry slightly. Also insist on ' on spec' when they do it, not the typical ' within approved range ' that most shops seem to like doing better.
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04:21 PM
USFiero Member
Posts: 4873 From: Everywhere and Middle of Nowhere Registered: Mar 2002
I cut one spring from my fronts. From what I have gathered from Herb Adams and Gerald Stvorik you can rotate the stock upper front ball joints to compensate for conservative drops (1 inch projected) If you notice the stock ones aren't centered, they are offset. I put the stock spacers from the upper a-rams in envelopes labled 'right front' 'right rear' 'left front' etc to put them back to stock caster. Some caster change might be desired for racing, but I don't want that twitchy a car. I guess all you can really adjust on a stock car is toe in. Adding the adjustable uppers lets you adjust camber which is unneccesary with a stock setup but (from what I have been reading) if you lower more than an inch up front you'll need the MOOG problem solvers.
Get your front lower ball joints replaced for safety sake!!!
Out back I'm going with ST 1.5 inch lowering springs, a Monroe cmber bolt for the lower mount of the strut. I'm going to make up for the extra drop in the back with a larger rim/tire combo. Speedometer calibration be danged. Toe in in the back is adjusted by lining the wheels up to the body so the car doesn't dog-track.
------------------ John DuRette Black 85 SE, undergoing work as we speak! Battery re-located up front using a V8 Archie box Remote Start/Window Rollup/Lock/Trunk Release/Alarm White Gauge Faces w/120 MPH Speedometer Conversion Hidden Antenna Urethane Suspension Bushings Sequential Tallights Custom Painted Dash Panels Oreif's painted door tabs and horn button Shortened Automatic Shifter w/Beretta shiftknob SpyHunter Intake Scoop H4 Headlight Conversion - done right! LED Third Brake Light/Custom Headliner Thunderbird Turbo hood scoops Braided Steel Brake Hoses Lowered an inch
