Just looking for input from those with experience. My slave cylinder failed over the winter, and I finally removed it from the car yesterday.
There's a small amount of surface rust at the end of the bore, but nothing that I imagine wouldn't disappear with a little bit of steel wool. I haven't a good idea yet what the rest of the bore looks like--I've only inspected it by shoving the piston back with a screwdriver instead of removing it.
Any suggestions? Success/failure stories? The easy way is certainly to just buy a new one, but the easy way isn't always the fun way.
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his: 1985 2M6 SE mostly stock, but becoming more my creation than GM's with each passing day
hers: 1984 2M4 all stock... with plans for something bigger in the future
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09:31 AM
PFF
System Bot
topcat Member
Posts: 5486 From: Charleston SC Registered: Dec 2001
I would replace it. Even thought the surface rust looks minimal, as soon as you start at it with steel wool, you change the bore size. Also if there are any scores in there at all, you will not get a good seal with a rebuild kit. A rebuild might work, but for the cost of the replacement vs. the cost of a rebuild kit (if you can find a kit for a good price) would not be worth the effort and time. I say replace it.
I took my slave and master cyls. apart and cleaned all of the sludge off them. I then used a small hone and cleaned up the bores in both of them, I did not have any scoring in mine and they work fine. I do have a new GM master and slave cyl. just in case. If you flush the old brake fluid out of the system every once in a while you will eliminate rust and sludge build up.
You don't want that cast POS Wagner aftermarket replacement.
How do the uninitiated tell the difference between an aftermarket vs. GM slave cylinder? From everything I've read so far, the GM unit is made from tubular steel, whereas most aftermarket slaves are cast? Are there any additional differences, such as casting numbers or manufacturer branding?
I suspect that what I have is the GM slave--it appears to be made from a tube, with the end cap, bleeder, and hydraulic line fittings welded in place. Are the fittings also welded in place on the cast slave, or are they part of the casting?
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09:49 AM
dguy Member
Posts: 2416 From: Beckwith Township, ON, Canada Registered: Jan 2003
Are Raybestos slaves any more reliable than Wagner's?
Seal kits are hard to find 'round here, and the one place which might be able to get one also sells a new Raybestos slave for about $10 more than the kit.
...then of course there's the slave from GM which sells for about 2½ times that.
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01:43 PM
StuGood Member
Posts: 3172 From: Wichita, KS, USA Registered: Jun 2000
Well after all of the various replies, I'm certainly not going to get rid of what appears to be a GM-issue slave.
Where do you guys & gals to the south of me (as in the U.S.A.) purchase your rebuild kits from? Like I said a couple of posts ago, only one retailer up my way will even tentatively say "yes" that they can get a rebuild kit, and it's a special order part at that. Online vendors appreciated, but those with 1-800 numbers will do as well.
The Fiero Store appears to carry a rebuild kit, but are there others who do as well?
[This message has been edited by dguy (edited 03-29-2004).]
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04:22 PM
spark1 Member
Posts: 11159 From: Benton County, OR Registered: Dec 2002
I recently had the same problem and ordered the rebuild kit through Auto Zone cost $34. As far as the rust on inside of cylinder wall I used 400 grit wet sand paper and smooth it out. It left the inside of the wall like new. Installed it, bled it and have not had any problems. The fiero store has the kit at a good price as well. I don't know which engine your working on I see that you have both. The price will vary according to which tranny you need it for.
[This message has been edited by rgirau (edited 03-29-2004).]
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10:36 PM
Mar 30th, 2004
dguy Member
Posts: 2416 From: Beckwith Township, ON, Canada Registered: Jan 2003