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Slave Cylinder - Rebuild or replace? by dguy
Started on: 03-28-2004 09:31 AM
Replies: 12
Last post by: dguy on 03-30-2004 09:19 AM
dguy
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Report this Post03-28-2004 09:31 AM Click Here to See the Profile for dguySend a Private Message to dguyDirect Link to This Post
Just looking for input from those with experience. My slave cylinder failed over the winter, and I finally removed it from the car yesterday.

There's a small amount of surface rust at the end of the bore, but nothing that I imagine wouldn't disappear with a little bit of steel wool. I haven't a good idea yet what the rest of the bore looks like--I've only inspected it by shoving the piston back with a screwdriver instead of removing it.

Any suggestions? Success/failure stories? The easy way is certainly to just buy a new one, but the easy way isn't always the fun way.


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his: 1985 2M6 SE
mostly stock, but becoming more my creation than GM's with each passing day

hers: 1984 2M4
all stock... with plans for something bigger in the future

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topcat
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Report this Post03-28-2004 09:38 AM Click Here to See the Profile for topcatClick Here to Email topcatSend a Private Message to topcatDirect Link to This Post
I would replace it. Even thought the surface rust looks minimal, as soon as you start at it with steel wool, you change the bore size. Also if there are any scores in there at all, you will not get a good seal with a rebuild kit. A rebuild might work, but for the cost of the replacement vs. the cost of a rebuild kit (if you can find a kit for a good price) would not be worth the effort and time. I say replace it.
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whobeyoube
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Report this Post03-28-2004 01:02 PM Click Here to See the Profile for whobeyoubeClick Here to Email whobeyoubeSend a Private Message to whobeyoubeDirect Link to This Post
If it's GM OEM, rebuild.

You don't want that cast POS Wagner aftermarket replacement.

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rodmcneill
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Report this Post03-28-2004 09:46 PM Click Here to See the Profile for rodmcneillClick Here to Email rodmcneillSend a Private Message to rodmcneillDirect Link to This Post
I took my slave and master cyls. apart and cleaned all of the sludge off them. I then used a small hone and cleaned up the bores in both of them, I did not have any scoring in mine and they work fine. I do have a new GM master and slave cyl. just in case. If you flush the old brake fluid out of the system every once in a while you will eliminate rust and sludge build up.
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MR P BODY
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Report this Post03-28-2004 09:54 PM Click Here to See the Profile for MR P BODYClick Here to visit MR P BODY's HomePageSend a Private Message to MR P BODYDirect Link to This Post
ive rebuilt both my master and slave with GREAT sucsess. so i would go the rebuild route. amd if it does fail your only out $10.

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Black 84 2M4

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sanderson
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Report this Post03-28-2004 11:53 PM Click Here to See the Profile for sandersonClick Here to Email sandersonSend a Private Message to sandersonDirect Link to This Post
Carquest sells a hone for about $15 that will fit the slave bore.
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dguy
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Report this Post03-29-2004 09:49 AM Click Here to See the Profile for dguySend a Private Message to dguyDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by whobeyoube:

If it's GM OEM, rebuild.

You don't want that cast POS Wagner aftermarket replacement.

How do the uninitiated tell the difference between an aftermarket vs. GM slave cylinder? From everything I've read so far, the GM unit is made from tubular steel, whereas most aftermarket slaves are cast? Are there any additional differences, such as casting numbers or manufacturer branding?

I suspect that what I have is the GM slave--it appears to be made from a tube, with the end cap, bleeder, and hydraulic line fittings welded in place. Are the fittings also welded in place on the cast slave, or are they part of the casting?

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dguy
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Report this Post03-29-2004 01:43 PM Click Here to See the Profile for dguySend a Private Message to dguyDirect Link to This Post
Are Raybestos slaves any more reliable than Wagner's?

Seal kits are hard to find 'round here, and the one place which might be able to get one also sells a new Raybestos slave for about $10 more than the kit.

...then of course there's the slave from GM which sells for about 2 times that.

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StuGood
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Report this Post03-29-2004 02:43 PM Click Here to See the Profile for StuGoodSend a Private Message to StuGoodDirect Link to This Post
Photo looks like original equipment slave cylinder. I would rebuild it. Whatever you do, don't throw the cylinder away.

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dguy
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Report this Post03-29-2004 04:22 PM Click Here to See the Profile for dguySend a Private Message to dguyDirect Link to This Post
Well after all of the various replies, I'm certainly not going to get rid of what appears to be a GM-issue slave.

Where do you guys & gals to the south of me (as in the U.S.A.) purchase your rebuild kits from? Like I said a couple of posts ago, only one retailer up my way will even tentatively say "yes" that they can get a rebuild kit, and it's a special order part at that. Online vendors appreciated, but those with 1-800 numbers will do as well.

The Fiero Store appears to carry a rebuild kit, but are there others who do as well?

[This message has been edited by dguy (edited 03-29-2004).]

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spark1
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Report this Post03-29-2004 08:19 PM Click Here to See the Profile for spark1Send a Private Message to spark1Direct Link to This Post
AutoPartsGIANT.com

1-877-65-GIANT (44268)

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rgirau
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Report this Post03-29-2004 10:36 PM Click Here to See the Profile for rgirauClick Here to Email rgirauSend a Private Message to rgirauDirect Link to This Post
I recently had the same problem and ordered the rebuild kit through Auto Zone cost $34. As far as the rust on inside of cylinder wall I used 400 grit wet sand paper and smooth it out. It left the inside of the wall like new. Installed it, bled it and have not had any problems. The fiero store has the kit at a good price as well. I don't know which engine your working on I see that you have both. The price will vary according to which tranny you need it for.

[This message has been edited by rgirau (edited 03-29-2004).]

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dguy
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Report this Post03-30-2004 09:19 AM Click Here to See the Profile for dguySend a Private Message to dguyDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by rgirau:

I don't know which engine your working on I see that you have both.

Oops, I forgot to mention that. In my case it doesn't really matter though--both cars have the 4-speed Muncie in them.


In any case, thanks to all who have replied. I seem to know where I'm going with this now.

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