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x-threaded Oil filter? by Erockrocket
Started on: 03-26-2004 07:35 PM
Replies: 7
Last post by: Erockrocket on 03-27-2004 06:18 PM
Erockrocket
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Report this Post03-26-2004 07:35 PM Click Here to See the Profile for ErockrocketSend a Private Message to ErockrocketDirect Link to This Post
Okay, call me stupid. I replaced my alternator recently, and while replacing the oil filter, I think I cross threaded it. Is there an easy way to replace the oil filter receiver. Is it even replaceable. What a pain in the butt changing the alternator. I even bought the 160 Amp alternator, cause I knew I wouldn't want to do it again in a year or so. Now this. And too top it off, I now have to replace the passenger outer tie rod. Shouldn't use a sledge as an automotive tool. It causes errerversible damage. Oh well. Any help greatly appreciated. Eric
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Oreif
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Report this Post03-26-2004 09:18 PM Click Here to See the Profile for OreifClick Here to visit Oreif's HomePageSend a Private Message to OreifDirect Link to This Post
You can remove the threaded center section of the oil filter mount. It uses a large allen wrench in the center. Just unscrew the insert and buy a new one.

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FieroJimmy
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Report this Post03-26-2004 09:44 PM Click Here to See the Profile for FieroJimmySend a Private Message to FieroJimmyDirect Link to This Post
You may be able to just put a new filter on. Generally the filter is not as hard as the adapter, so the threads on the filter will deform first. Check the threads, you may be lucky.

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theogre
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Report this Post03-27-2004 12:59 AM Click Here to See the Profile for theogreClick Here to visit theogre's HomePageSend a Private Message to theogreDirect Link to This Post
What FieroJimmy said... filters are soft. inspect the engine part threads before you assume they are bad. And Definitely get another filter.

If the engine part threads are bad.. you can replace them as Oreif said. If you can't find new then you'll have to get it from a used engine at a salvage yard.

my first guess is that the filter was marginal to start with. Most filters have good enough threads that you can't cross thread them without a major screwup. IE you have to try to start them with a wrench and allot of force.

I would try a new filter from a reliable brand before worrying about bad hardware on the engine.

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Erockrocket
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Report this Post03-27-2004 11:00 AM Click Here to See the Profile for ErockrocketSend a Private Message to ErockrocketDirect Link to This Post
I used a K&N filter. About 10$. The old one was also the same. What type of seal is used at the block. I can't really see. Thanks to all that replied!!!!

Tried puttin my old 78 Shaggin Wagon Van on the road. Been sitting for a couple of years. Changed the oil, added some slick 50, changed some other hoses and stuff. Now it has a collapsed Lifter. Time for a top end rebuild. O boy. I need a good daily driver.

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theogre
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Report this Post03-27-2004 03:14 PM Click Here to See the Profile for theogreClick Here to visit theogre's HomePageSend a Private Message to theogreDirect Link to This Post
I don't think the threaded part for the filter mount has any sealer or anything else. It's been so long since I had one out I don't remember for sure.

On the Fiero ones... I think the filter bypass valve is under the filter mount tube. If it is, I would replace that valve while you have it appart. I think you can get those thru ACDelco or Fram. (I think there are notes about it in my cave but I'm not sure what page or if I actaully posted them at the moment.)

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The Ogre's Fiero Cave (It's also at the top of every forum page...)

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FieroJimmy
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Report this Post03-27-2004 04:29 PM Click Here to See the Profile for FieroJimmySend a Private Message to FieroJimmyDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by Erockrocket:

I used a K&N filter. About 10$. The old one was also the same. What type of seal is used at the block. I can't really see. Thanks to all that replied!!!!

Tried puttin my old 78 Shaggin Wagon Van on the road. Been sitting for a couple of years. Changed the oil, added some slick 50, changed some other hoses and stuff. Now it has a collapsed Lifter. Time for a top end rebuild. O boy. I need a good daily driver.

On the Fiero, do you mean the seal from the filter to the block? That's a big, squared o-ring.

On the van, if you run the engine for a little while, like up to operating temperature, the lifter may unstick. Also, oil pressure will climb as the engine speed climbs. You might be able to let it warm up, then rev it a bit (I wouldn't go over about 2500rpm, with it tapping)

Sounds like you're having fun this weekend.

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Erockrocket
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Report this Post03-27-2004 06:18 PM Click Here to See the Profile for ErockrocketSend a Private Message to ErockrocketDirect Link to This Post
Well it's fixed. Finnally got the new filter off, to discover an old o-ring still attached to the block. Dohhh. I didn't check the old filter when I took it off. It's wayy up under everything, I couldn't see and I was in a hurry. Now I know to check. Got the new alternator installed, and it runs fine now. Now all I have to do is replace the outer tie-rod and I' ll be back on the road. Soon I will have a second vehicle, soo I'll be able to give the Fiero my full attention. Thanks too all that responded, I really needed the help and you all were there. I need to donate more to Cliff, because without the Forum I would be lost. I love my Fiero, but it's challeneging to work on. Goodday and goodnight Eric
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