ok i have the pass side one all installed and stuff but now i have to wire it up, there is a ground, ignition, a power (+12volt, w/ a 3amp fuse) and a second power (+12volt, w/ a 30amp fuse) and i realized that these are the same ones i needed for my stereo (except the two power lines) so can i just use the same ones? like splice them? if not how do i run a new ignition wire, making a new ground and running a line from the bat. is easy i can do that..... i think, i dunno how i would get the wire inside the cabin, but i need some major help i have no clue and the instructions are terribly

thanks!
Travis, 85GT

I did what you did, where I leeched off of another power wire in the car. Only problem was when i hit the switch to pop it, it would blow like 3 fuses cause those solenoids draw a ton of power from the wire. My remedy was to run a wire from the battery to under the driver side dash, in which I hooked the alarm, solenoids, etc up to that one wire - which also had a 30amp fuse in it in case something went wrong (the fuse was right next to the battery, in case it blew and I needed to change it to pop the doors). Anyway, if you need help, I've been there and done that. Finished the driver side 2 days ago, and I've been enjoying the popping action, lol. Passenger side is the easiest though

Also, autoloc will automatically pop the doors when the ignition is turned off...which is why you want a constant 12v.

ok, so i can't share the radio/soleniods power lines, where do i run the power cable into the passanger compartment?? can i hook both power lines to that one wire? and i still have no idea where to hook up the ignition one, thanks for the help

Well, basically I ran it from the engine compartment (drilled through the firewall by the ecm), and ran the wire through the center console, under the radio, and out the side....zip tie all the wires in place so they won't move....and then hook up all electronics to that live wire. What are you using the ignition for anyway (an alarm?)?

I can't emphasize this enough... Run a 10g or larger fused wire directly from you battery. These solenoids draw TONS of power..

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Or, you can use the power door lock relays.

Orville

ok so i can hook both #1. the power to the remote receiver and #2. the power to the soleniods up the same wire right?

the ignition wire is so you can't pop the doors while ur drivin on accident or something but what if you have to drop someone off? did any of you have to do this? i'm thinkin i pry don't even have to bother with it, but if i do it'd be nice to know where to look to hook it up, the only place i can think of is the ignition key hole and that doesn't sound fun to get to

thanks for the help, Travis

ok i got em to work, i ran one wire from the battery to both power lines and ignored the ignition deal, it was there so that when the ignition is on you can't pop the doors with the remote, they make a decently loud noise when they open is this normal? its like a CLINK, but they work like a charm with the windows up, when they're down you have to either help the door out or push it twice

LOVIN IT

Travis

They make poppers for shaved doors. The poppers push the door open far enough so you don't have to hit it twice!

Yeah, they work perfect with the windows up, but with they're down you need to help it a lil, lol. As for poppers -> don't use them. It's not worth the hassle. You cut your door up, and also have to slam the door to close it. And after awhile the poppers squeak. So stick with using what you have

i think that when i get new hinges it'll make things easier also

I rebuilt my hinges, it does exactly the same thing still. It just helps a tad for it to be pushed out faster.