Do they just unscrew? or do you use a ball joint type seperator and pry them out? IM really confused on how they remove.

Im also wondering if its wise to change the steering rack bushing even if there is no play?

this is an 87GT i just added poly bushings all around, and cut 1.25 coils from the springs, so it should be lowered 1-1.5" in front, i had new lower balljoints pressed in, and i installed moog problem solver upper balljoints, Ive already got the new inner/outer tie rods, and a new rack bushing, but i cant seem to get the inner tie rods off, im sure im not doing it right, and the steering rack has NO play in it, so im not sure if i should replace the bushing in it or not.

matthew

The tie rod screw on the rack. When you get the new ends you will see how it does. When taking the old tie rods off and putting the new ones on be sure to put a wrench on the racks shaft so you do not stress the rack itself.

Also it is a good idea to use a little locktite on the tie rods.

if the inner tie rods are stake to the rack it makes it a little harder to get off.
on my '88 i got out the trusty dremel and cut slits on the stake part, enough
to alow the inner tie rod unscrew.

Great timing on this post - I'm thinking about replacing the LHS inner tie rod end on my 1987 Silver GT, because the LHS tire has significant "yaw play" (not to be confused with yogurt, BTW ). You can "yaw" the tire way too easily just by grabbing it with your hands, and the tie rod moves in & out with the tire movement (like 1/2" IIRC). The RHS tire doesn't do this, so I'm thinking it's the inner tie rod end's fault.

Can one change an inner toe rod end without removing the entire rack from the car? Also, can/should the replacement inner tie rod end's ball and socket joint be greased before installing it? The joint seems awfully dry and stiff as it comes out of the box. Thanks in advance - guessing the answers to these questions will be of interest to the original poster.

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I finished replacing my steering rack yesterday with one from the Fiero Store. I also had the same problem with end play which StuGood has. I would definately recommend pulling the rack and pinion unit before trying to unscrew the link rods. It takes some powerful pulling to unscrew a link rod against the staking down. With the rack out of the car, you can work a small screwdriver in to raise the staked down part on the left side. All you can do to the right side is cuss and grunt. You definately need a long wrench on the part of the rack shaft which has the teeth. Pulling the rack is not something to make you put a gun to your head, but the steering wheel needs to be in just the right position to remove the pinch bolt which holds the rack to the steering wheel. Out of the whole 360 degrees, I only found one position for that. For me, the worst part was holding the plastic boot up so that I could get at the pinch bolt. These things are a pain, but at my age I can see that there are two differences between a Fiero and a coffin. You can't do much to a coffin to make it go faster, and no one is going to tell you that he wishes he had one just like yours. Enjoy.

There is a tool to do this and it makes it very fast. I have never had to do anything with the crimped end it will open as you unsrew it. Just put a wrench on the rack install the tool and uncrew it. I'm sure you can get the tool from the parts store lowner program. My tie rod tool is imprinted with Do not use impact. But I do wrong or not at a low setting. I would not remove the rack just to do the inner tie rod ends. It also helps to have the right tool to install the new boot clamps. But you can make it as had to do as you want. I takes longer to remove the boot then it does to remove the inner tie rod. The boot and outer tie rod must be remover first before you can slip the inner tool in place.
Rod

I did my 87 GT about 6months ago and this is how I did mine!

**I WOULD REPLACE BOTH INNER AND OUTER TIEROD ENDS ON BOTH SIDES BECAUSE ALIGNMENT WILL BE REQUIRED AFTERWARDS!!!**

First buy the new inner tie rod and if you don't have a huge wrench take the new tie rod with you to your tool store and match up the longest wrench they have (Mine is about 1-1/2 feet long). **I tried getting an inner tierod remover tool and no one had the proper one to loan and to buy one at Napa it was very expensive for a onetime job (like 80.00 or something) so I opted for the cheaper wrench route!

**Point wheels straight ahead**
1.Lift car and place it on jack stands and remove tire.
2.Remove the steering stabilizer,stabilizer stud and boot support.
3.Remove the castle nut from the outer tie rod end
4.Use an outer tie rod end remover (get one of the SOLID "U" shaped ones with the bolt in it) it's much easier to use and remove the outer tie rod end from the knuckle with one of these.
5.Cut the inner tie rod end boot clamp and slide the boot down the tie rod shaft.
6.Now use the big wrench on the inner tierod end and loosen it (I can't remember if I used a wrench or vise-grips to hold the rack piston or not...it's been awhile).
**Mine loosened pretty easily even though it looked like it was rusted fast to the rack**

If you are replacing both inner and outer tierod ends don't remove the outer end from the inner tierod (you can get a rough estimate of how far to to adjust the new outer tierod end onto the new inner tierod with this unit in one peice) !

If you opt to reuse the old outer tierod end then undo the jam bolt and unscrew the outer tierod end from the inner (count the revolutions so you can get the adjustment pretty close when you install it on the new inner)!

7.Slip the boot on the new inner tierod replace old or install the new outer tierod end (counting the revolutions..as noted earlier). Don't forget the jam bolt!
8.Screw the new inner tierod into the rack and tighten it!
9.Slip the boot back into position and use a large hose clamp, zip-tie or new clamp (what ever you choose).
10.Reinstall the the outer tierod end onto the knuckle and install the castle nut (don't tighten yet).
11.Install the boot support, stabilizer stud and steering stabilizer.
12.Replace tire and lower vehicle.
13.Check to make sure tire is pointing straight (or in the same direction as the other tire). If not adjust the tierod end until the tire is.

Repeat proceedure for other side and GET THE FRONT END ALIGNED!!!!

Hope I didn't let anything out (as mentioned eariler it has been awhile and i'm going by memory alone)!

Good Luck!

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Keith F.

[This message has been edited by camon (edited 03-12-2004).]

quote Originally posted by StuGood: Also, can/should the replacement inner tie rod end's ball and socket joint be greased before installing it? The joint seems awfully dry and stiff as it comes out of the box.

Many of the replacement inner tie rod ends now come with a small grease pack, and a small tube of loctite. The installation instructions tell you to apply the grease on the new ball/socket before you install the boot. If the flats on the tie rod are in a position that you cant get a big wrench on it, I have used a pipe wrench to remove/install them.

Edit to say I have been able to reuse the steel boot clamps by carefully spreading the crimp.
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Tim
Red 88 Formula Auto 2.8 100K+ Miles - Hypertech - No Cat - No EGR

Murphys Law - "Nothing is as easy as it looks, Everything takes longer than you expect, And if anything can go wrong - it will, At the worst possible moment!"

[This message has been edited by FrugalFiero (edited 03-12-2004).]