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  howmuchhard is to pull the head after u have the intake off

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howmuchhard is to pull the head after u have the intake off by fierobrian
Started on: 02-11-2004 11:55 AM
Replies: 5
Last post by: fierobrian on 02-11-2004 02:49 PM
fierobrian
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Report this Post02-11-2004 11:55 AM Click Here to See the Profile for fierobrianClick Here to Email fierobrianSend a Private Message to fierobrianDirect Link to This Post
i'm going to be replacingthe whole intake setup and i'm thinking about getting heads and rebuildinng them and porting and polishing them to match the intake setup.
HOW MUCH MORE WORK IN IT GOING TO BE TO CHANGE HEADS AND CAN THE MANAFOLDS COME OFF WITH THE HEADS
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Kento
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Report this Post02-11-2004 12:07 PM Click Here to See the Profile for KentoClick Here to Email KentoSend a Private Message to KentoDirect Link to This Post
A PAin! or not. You would have to disconnecy the exhaust and depending on if you removed them from the head or at the "Y" pipe would make a big impact on difficulty. Getting to the head bolts on the firewall side might be difficult as well. I am only guessing as all my motor work was done while mounted on engine stand.

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Pyrthian
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Report this Post02-11-2004 12:34 PM Click Here to See the Profile for PyrthianClick Here to Email PyrthianSend a Private Message to PyrthianDirect Link to This Post
not to bad, have to take a few things of the front - alt bracket, oil sender bracket, among other odd thingys. Then separate the exhaust at the y-pipe, and take the exhaust manifolds off with the heads, then take the manifolds off the head on a bench, be much easier, and WHEN you break/strip a bolt, you'll have better access to get it out. Good time to get a dremel & port the heads too.
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DanielKJenkins
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Report this Post02-11-2004 12:54 PM Click Here to See the Profile for DanielKJenkinsClick Here to Email DanielKJenkinsSend a Private Message to DanielKJenkinsDirect Link to This Post
Soak the exhaust manifold bolts in a penetrating oil. The get brittle with heat and age.

An impact wrench is better for removing the exhaust bolts. Heating the bolts with a propane torch may also be necessary.

Get new head bolts and exhaust bolts. Use the Loctite Anti-sieze on the ex bolts.

If the bolt breaks and it cannot be removed with vise grips take it to a machine shop. Quality bolt removal equipment (ez outs, center drills etc) is expensive and easily broken. The guys that use it on a daily basis develop the skills that make it look easy.

Just my .02 worth (I hate broken bolts)

[This message has been edited by DanielKJenkins (edited 02-11-2004).]

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webbee
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Report this Post02-11-2004 01:17 PM Click Here to See the Profile for webbeeClick Here to Email webbeeSend a Private Message to webbeeDirect Link to This Post
If you replace the manifold bolts with stainless ones, you solve the corrosion, rusting problem.
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fierobrian
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Report this Post02-11-2004 02:49 PM Click Here to See the Profile for fierobrianClick Here to Email fierobrianSend a Private Message to fierobrianDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by Pyrthian:

not to bad, have to take a few things of the front - alt bracket, oil sender bracket, among other odd thingys. Then separate the exhaust at the y-pipe, and take the exhaust manifolds off with the heads, then take the manifolds off the head on a bench, be much easier, and WHEN you break/strip a bolt, you'll have better access to get it out. Good time to get a dremel & port the heads too.

that is what i was thinking it would be the whole reason i will pull the heads is after i get the spare heads i going to buy rebuilt .and then i wil port the intake to match the port heads and i will put stainless STUDS in for the manfolds .I HAD THE CROSS OVER OFF a about a year ago and put stain less in with anti-siece so that schould not be a problum .DOES ANYONE HAVE PHOTOS OF THERE REWORKED CROSS OVER PIPE OR A PLACE THAT CAN DO THAT .thatnks a lot for all the info

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