Ok, real quick for ya. 84 SE 2.5L auto. I have done this so far: new ecm, checked what wiring I could reach, I can get fuel all the way to the injector it seems, throttle body pulled from working Fiero (and working injector), car will start when you put gas down the carb (but not long). Anyway, I was wondering if semi bad (the look bad, but everything still runs) would cause the injector not to open? I've tried just about everything to get that stupid injector to just open for papa, and it won't. I'm afraid I have to do the unthinkable....take it to a shop. Any ideas? And yes I did check that power wire-to-ECM under the intake, seems ok to me......and oh yeah, I can't get any check engine codes. Maybe a burned out bulb. Gotta check it though. Thanks.
Austin
------------------ Practice makes perfect, but since nobody's perfect, why practice? If life gives you lemons, take them and throw them at people you hate.
hmm, maybe a clogged injector? so u r already sure that you have fuel pressure all the way up to the injector? sounds like something my car did the other day. if u can get it running, keep on the gas for a minute or two, just keep it revving around 2k rpms. once the car warms it may stay running. hey u never know, mine kept dying at idle, so i just revved it for a minute or two and it ran fine after that. possibly an air bubble in the fuel line, that can cause the car to stall out too.
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04:03 AM
Indiana_resto_guy Member
Posts: 7158 From: Shelbyville, IN USA Registered: Jul 2000
IF your getting fuel in the correct pressure range to the injector and the car starts when pouring fuel into the throttle body, your not getting injector signals from the ECM. (BAD) Check the ecm fuse and fuse links at the starter. A "semi-bad fusible links cause a bad injector"? A fuse link is good as long as it conducts electricity and plastic sheath is in good shape, discoration of the sheath doesn't count but cracks that go all the way through do. (replace them) Get a noid light and check for injector pulse.
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09:16 AM
James Bond 007 Member
Posts: 8868 From: California.U.S.A. Registered: Dec 2002
Had the power wire going into the + battery post become an intermittent contact and it would not fire the injectors upon startup. Run good once started. As far as a fuseable link being semi bad I'd think that was like being a little bit pregnant.
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11:22 AM
Mickey_Moose Member
Posts: 7497 From: Edmonton, AB, Canada Registered: May 2001
...as stated above...there is no way a fusiable link can be 'semi' bad - a fusiable link is just like it sounds, a fuse. But instead of the 'fuse' being housed (contained) in plastic or glass, it is covered in a flexiable sheathing.
Tim
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12:10 PM
lurker Member
Posts: 12351 From: salisbury nc usa Registered: Feb 2002
I'll try to. I'll have to dig deeper for more money that I don't have.......Shaddow, I can't keep it running. Nothing comes out the injector. Its dry. Indiano, I'm not sure if I'm getting accurate fuel pressure, but I'm getting pretty good fuel pressure. I ran a fuel line hose into a pop bottle and it went in there pretty dang goodly. I also checked it just before it came to the TBI also and it still came out. As for what I mean by semi bad fusible links, it seems that they are ok, but the the wiring going in looks "fine" the wiring going out of the link looks very suspicious....what do those two fusible links control? You said ECM? Cause if I have a bad ECM fusible link, that's the key to all my problems.......also, can anybody help me with how exactly to do a fusible link "change"? I think if I remember right, it goes from one gauge wiring, to a differenty type gauge wiring, and a fusible link holds them in the middle.....cand I get the stuff I need at an auto parts store? (AutoZone, Checker, Napa?) Thanks guys. Sorry I talked so long.
Austin
------------------ Practice makes perfect, but since nobody's perfect, why practice? If life gives you lemons, take them and throw them at people you hate.
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12:54 AM
lurker Member
Posts: 12351 From: salisbury nc usa Registered: Feb 2002
Originally posted by ImmortalFirefly: (a) I'll try to. I'll have to dig deeper for more money that I don't have (b)Nothing comes out the injector. Its dry. Indiano, I'm not sure if I'm getting accurate fuel pressure, but I'm getting pretty good fuel (c) can anybody help me with how exactly to do a fusible link "change"? (d) can I get the stuff I need at an auto parts store? (AutoZone, Checker, Napa?)
(a) judging from a post in your previous thread, while a noid light is best, i think any old test light will do. (b) gas to tbi, nothing out injector. either the injector is bad, or no control signal. since this particular injector used to work, check for signal. see (a) above. (c) easy, cut out old link, splice in new with butt connectors. but first, i would test the old one for continuity. got an ohm meter? (d) yes.
if i may offer some advice, dont jump from option to option so much. try to focus on one problem at a time. it makes it very difficult for us to offer relevant advice.
[This message has been edited by lurker (edited 02-06-2004).]
loose or otherwise cruddy wiring can cause the ECM or anything else see a low volt condition. This can and often will screw with injectors. Two things are common...
The ECM will actually change its injector signal based on over or under volt. The ECM may simply not have proper voltage to operate.
Electrical problems, especially bad grounds, can fry an ECM. If the engine isn't propperly grounded to the body/frame then stuff that should not may try to ground thru the ECM wiring. Depending on what is spiking the ECM it can fry real quick.
------------------ Edison Carter: When did the News become Entertainment? Murray: Since it was invented.
also, can anybody help me with how exactly to do a fusible link "change"? I think if I remember right, it goes from one gauge wiring, to a differenty type gauge wiring, and a fusible link holds them in the middle.....cand I get the stuff I need at an auto parts store? (AutoZone, Checker, Napa?) Thanks guys. Sorry I talked so long.
Austin
A fusible link is just a short section (~6") of smaller gauge wire. It becomes the weak link and acts like a fuse. All the auto stores carry them. They typically come with an eyelet on one end and bare wire on the other. The factory service manual says to connect the wires with a splice clip and then solder. Others here will say to use a crimp style connector only on the theory that solder effects the resistance value.
