I just bought an 88 fiero! Its looks good but I want to lower the front suspension to give it a better stance. Right now it sits to high for my taste. I found some drop spindles for an 88 but they cost almost 600 dollars! Would using lower springs be OK??? I bought the 88 cause its has the best suspension and I don't want to screw that up! Thanks

yeah lowering springs are fine

I believe spindles allow you for bigger tires? someone please correct me if I'm wrong. There aren't to many suspension parts to lower an 88 I'm in the same boat as you that wheel gap is really annoying me. I see the fiero store sells lowering springs that they made .75-1 inch drop front and back, then of course the spindles.

I know awhile ago some company did offer eibach's, but they aren't offered for the 88 I've looked high and low for them and even posted in the mall. I forgot who but they got in contact with the company and they'll do them for $300? a spring! I sometimes wish I had an 87 suspension parts are easier to get

oh yeah I forgot on summit they sell intrax springs 1.7" in back 1.8" in front, I was looking for a 1 inch drop max. Not sure if I'd feel comfortable with almost a 2" drop
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88 5spd Modified 3800 Series II SC Formula
Modifications 2004 - Intercooler | 2.8 pulley | 1 inch drop | Interior | 17 inch wheels

[This message has been edited by LoW_KeY (edited 02-01-2004).]

In a few weeks I'll have some lowering front ball joints. They will drop the front end 1". 'll have a few sets to give out N/C for R&D. I'll have some for both the 88's and the 84-87's. In the past some have used a FWD GM ball joint that has a longer stem. Mine have the same lenght stem but a longer body.
https://www.fiero.nl/forum/Archives/Archive-000001/HTML/20010116-2-003344.html

I will be willing to try out the balljoints for the 88 for R&D. My car is a daily driver so I can put them thru the test. Let me know anymore info on them.

quote Originally posted by Rodney: In a few weeks I'll have some lowering front ball joints. They will drop the front end 1". 'll have a few sets to give out N/C for R&D. I'll have some for both the 88's and the 84-87's. In the past some have used a FWD GM ball joint that has a longer stem. Mine have the same lenght stem but a longer body. https://www.fiero.nl/forum/Archives/Archive-000001/HTML/20010116-2-003344.html

I have a front end apart and I am rebuilding it now. I could supply digital pictures to compare with the other lower ball joint that you sell which I have in the LCA now.
jp jones

quote Originally posted by Rodney: In a few weeks I'll have some lowering front ball joints. They will drop the front end 1". 'll have a few sets to give out N/C for R&D. I'll have some for both the 88's and the 84-87's. In the past some have used a FWD GM ball joint that has a longer stem. Mine have the same lenght stem but a longer body. https://www.fiero.nl/forum/Archives/Archive-000001/HTML/20010116-2-003344.html

Oops, I don't have your lower now--it's a Moog. At the time I ordered, you only offered uppers. jp

[This message has been edited by L67Formula (edited 02-01-2004).]

Yeah Rodney! I'm also willing to try those out for you on my 88. Keep us posted.

I too would also like to try them out on my 88gt if possible. I have already cut one coil off the front coils but it still has 3'' between the tire and fender. WAY too much in my opinion.

As I understand, the lower part of the spindle would be 1" closer to the lower control arm. Am I correctt? What, if any, effect on the upper control arm? Would the spring compression be decreased by the same 1 inch?

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FierOmar

Omar, as I understand it, following the link to the thread that Rodney posted, the lower part of the spindle will be placed further away from the lower control arm. The angle of the UPPER control arm will change...not sure if this pic will work or not...

If this pic works, it will explain it. If it doesn't, check out Rodney's post above, and click on the link...the pic shows up in that archived thread.

Your upper control arm will be closer to it's upward limit of travel, but I don't think that 1" will make that much difference...certainly no more difference than using lowering springs. However, your spring won't be compressed as much at rest, which makes me wonder how it will perform under compression/rebound. Reading in the thread, though, the one gentleman that has perfomed the modification using the Cadillac ball joints says that if anything, the suspension geometry is improved by doing it, and the stock ride quality is retained. It seems to be an inexpensive alternative to drop spindles. My concern might be the strength of the ball joint.

Rodney, I've sent you an email...

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Mike...86 GT 4 Speed
"Sucks to be me..."

[This message has been edited by litespd (edited 02-01-2004).]

hahahahhahaa sorry first thing came to mind is put some 13" playa rims on with some low profile tires that should drop it like 2-3" or so! lol.....hahahahhaha

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no, i dont race anything that has more cubic inches in the exhaust tip then the engine!

Will this ball joint installation require an alignment after installation? Is this a stock ball joint or something special? I was going to install cut springs on the front of my 88, I will wait to hear the feedback on these.

RODNEY ... 'In a few weeks I'll have some lowering front ball joints. '
I think you got everyones attention with this one, I want to lower the front on my '88 Formula as well.
Keep up the good work and PLEASE let us know when they are available.

Rodney, I'm willing to put them on my '88GT. I currently have The Fiero Store's front springs on, but I wouldn't mind going lower. As a previous customer (shifter & leather boot), can I get on the trial list? Thanks.

Any update on the new product yet?

I am still waiting on the sample sets I ordered. I ordered 10 of each type. 5 sets for the 88's and 5 sets for the 84-87's. If all goes well I should have them in about 1 1/2 weeks or so. I have not heard lately if there will be any delay. I would expect them here on or about Feb. 20th or 23rd. I should know more this week if that date still stands.

Rodney, I am in the process of rebuilding my front end and will be lowering it somehow in the process. As you know, I have just received the inner tie rod and rack bushing for my '88 from you. I would be very interested in installing the lowering ball joints at the same time I rebuild rack.

If you want to put me on the '88 R & D list, I appreciate it and will give you a report quickly.

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Here is what I did to my '88GT autocrosser fiero:
Suspension:
Koni adjustable struts and shocks, 1988 ACE-Eibach 1 Ό” lowering springs, poly control arm / trail arm bushings, new outer tie rod ends, new inner tie rods, new upper / lower ball joints, grease-able poly sway bar bushings and end links w/ ½” grade-8 bolt, and all new parts for the steering rack assembly.

ALL of the suspension parts were purchased from Summit Racing:
’88 Parts List:
Control Arm Poly Bushing Set PTP-7-207 $39.95
Trailing Arm Poly Bushing Set PTP-7-305 $41.69
Outer Tie Rod Ends MOG-ES3238RL $31.99
Sway bar Bracket Poly ENS-9-5158G $13.95 Greaseable 22mm rear GT
Sway bar Bracket Poly ENS-9-5163G $13.95 Greaseable 28mm front GT
Poly Tie Rod Boots $3.95/pr

Inner Tie Rod Ends and Rack Bushing from “Rodney”

Poly Grease:
Marine Lubricant 2-4-C W/Teflon $2.59/Tube

Home Made End Links:
Front: 7 ½” or 8” ½-20 Grade-8 Bolt
½” USS Flat Washers Grade-8 Note: USS is larger outer diameter than SAE.
End link Sleeve made from ½” ID 1040 Steel Black Pipe, cut to length.
Mods to Front Sway Bar Bracket: Predrilled bracket slot hole and car frame hole to accept 3/8” ID bolts. The original bracket has a nut welded to the bracket. These new brackets will need nuts to go with them. Purchase 3/8” USS flat washers. Must slot the washer part way to fit over the top of the bracket. Use Ύ” lengths bolts for the front and 1” length bolts for the back of the bracket. Use the slotted flat washers for both the top and bottom side of the brackets. Torque to 35’/lbs.
3/8”-24, Ύ” & 1” lengths, Grade-8 Bolts. With 3/8” USS flat washers, Grade-8.

Rear: 6” or 6 1/2”, ½”-20 Grade-8 Bolt
½” USS Flat Washers Grade-8 Note: USS is larger outer diameter than SAE.
End link Sleeve made from ½” ID 1040 Steel Black Pipe, cut to length.

Poly Bushings for the end links can be purchased from any auto shop. Drill out the ID to ½”. Most poly end link bushings are either 5/16” or 3/8” ID.

Front Shock Bushings: Replaced the stock rubber bushings with poly bushings. Used the same end link bushings that where use for the end links. These poly bushings you can get at any auto store. Look for end link replacement bushing set, all are Energy Suspension products. Drilled out the ID to match the OD of the Shock shaft. Purchase USS Flat washers, Grade-8.

The front sway bar bushing bracket is more stronger and more ridged than the original, therefore, it is like purchasing a bigger diameter sway bar, for a lot less $$$. The stock sway bar is 28 mm, with these stiff mods, the sway bar acts and handles like a 30 mm bar.

Solo2,

Great write up. I added that one to the file.

Rob

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88 TTop coupe, soon to be fitted with a 96 DOHC 3.4/5spd