I want to put a new paint job on my car, I am going to be painting it the 2004 Grand Am Metallic Orange, but I want to bead blast. Is this a safe venture or is there a better way to "blast" the car? My intention is to paint the car whole (as opposed to parting it and then reassembling it). I heard that sand blasting isn't the safest way to go because of pits being left.
------------------ Coupe85 (with an 84 2M4 se) No Longer Fieroless 1984 2M4 SE - Now in my possesion 1985 Sport Coupe - Sold to Fierobob 1988 Formula - Sold to fellow PFFer
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11:30 PM
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Firefox Member
Posts: 4307 From: New Berlin, Wisconsin Registered: Feb 2003
I wouldn't use any blasting techniques. Sandpaper is the best way to go because the pressure from the blasting will distort the plastic and fiberglass.
Mark
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11:34 PM
GSXRBOBBY Member
Posts: 3122 From: Southern Indiana USA Registered: Aug 2003
------------------ Coupe85 *** No Longer Fieroless with an 84 SE 2M4*** 1984 2M4 SE - Now in my possesion***1985 Sport Coupe - Sold to Fierobob (Twin Lakes Fiberglass)***1988 Formula - Sold to fellow PFFer
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12:07 AM
Fieroking Member
Posts: 2150 From: Coeur D Alene Idaho USA Registered: Jun 2002
There is a new blasting process that uses baking soda as the blast media. It is so fine that it does not generate heat or ripple the underlying material. The soda is so fine that it can remove one layer of paint at a time and also has the neat feature in that it is water soluable. So after they are done blasting all you need to do is wash the car and all the soda dissolves and is washed away. You might ckeck to see if anyone in your area is using this process and check it out.
Joe Sokol 85 SE 5 Speed 2.8 88 Formula/GT 5 Speed 4.9 Caddy
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12:42 AM
SplineZ Member
Posts: 952 From: Edmonton, Alberta, Canada Registered: Nov 2002
Came out great, the place that blasted it put the inital black primer on it and we did more work on them. Like the front bumper was pretty beat up on the bottom so we filled the gouges with filler and sanded it smooth as well as a few low spots.
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08:48 AM
fierofool Member
Posts: 12963 From: Auburn, Georgia USA Registered: Jan 2002
Correct me if I'm wrong. Isn't baking soda what's used in dry powder fire extinguishers? You should see what that stuff does to an engine. Corrodes everything. It's dang near impossible to get it all off, unless the operation may include some method of capturing it as it's blasted.
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01:38 PM
GTDude Member
Posts: 9056 From: Keysville, Virginia, USA Registered: Nov 2001
No........you got your powders mixed up. Baking soda is not caustic. It is an alkaline and used to neutralize acid.
Best bet on a Fiero. Sand it!
Phil
------------------ 87 FIERO GT 2.8 5spd
GM auto tech for 27 years. Specializing in electrical and computer problems. Now on workers comp. and it looks like I will be unable to return to work as a tech.
Baking Soda Blasting is not new, it's been around for a few years (mid 90's). I had an 89 S-Blazer blasted with baking soda and it did a good job. Another benefit to baking soda is you don't have to remove trim, the soda doesn't harm anything. The downside, while technically it will dissolve in water, it was probably a good 2 years my Blazer would weep soda out of all the crevases/window cracks ect. Rest assured it wasn't a case of lazy washing, we tried and tried but she'd always have white streaking. I can imagine in a Fiero it would probably be forever due to the nature of the panels/trim. Good luck on what you chose.
The problem with using blasting techniques on the Fiero panels is that the rigid panels are made from material that is softer than the paint the factory put over it. When sanding you can very easily control the pressure and technique so that you minimize the amount of through-sanding you do into the base material. Blasting on the other hand is very difficult to control and relies on the substrate being much harder than the overcoat, or paint. A person blasting will quickly put many craters and divots in the base material as the blasting media eats through the hard paint and into the softer substrate.
Besides, the factory paint makes a good bonding medium if it's prepped correctly.
Ok so it sounds like sanding is the most efficient way to do the prep work. What about removing the luggage rack and trim pieces? Is this a tough job or is it fairly simple? Thanks in advance.
------------------ Coupe85 *** No Longer Fieroless with an 84 SE 2M4*** 1984 2M4 SE - Now in my possesion***1985 Sport Coupe - Sold to Fierobob (Twin Lakes Fiberglass)***1988 Formula - Sold to fellow PFFer
Corvette guys all the time get them blasted. Friends of mine all do them with walnut shells. It wont damage the plastic panels and takes off all the paint and primer. Anything else may damage it. Call around for blasters in your area. You can always let them do a test panel for you to check first. They also did that on a Vette on TV they restored. The ones ive gotten to repaint after blasting just needed DA'd and primered.
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08:13 PM
TaurusThug Member
Posts: 4271 From: Simpsonville, SC Registered: Aug 2003
Correct me if I'm wrong. Isn't baking soda what's used in dry powder fire extinguishers? You should see what that stuff does to an engine. Corrodes everything. It's dang near impossible to get it all off, unless the operation may include some method of capturing it as it's blasted.
Baking soda is the main ingredient used in certain dry chemical fire extinguishers....only B-C rated units, and not all of those have the sodium bicarbonate. Baking soda is not corrosive, as you are thinking. The stuff you are referring to is the A-B-C rated dry chemical, which has a mono-ammonium phosphate base. That's the corrosive stuff and not baking soda.
If baking soda does a good job in blasting, it won't hurt the car.
Mark Fire Protection Specialist Interstate Fire Protection Milwaukee, Wisconsin
Custom Auto Painting
[This message has been edited by Firefox (edited 01-31-2004).]
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10:46 PM
Feb 1st, 2004
Shadow_Wolf Member
Posts: 759 From: Sherwood Park, Alberta, Canada Registered: May 2003
Mar-hyde does make a chemical stripper specifically for plastic body panels... can't remember the product number but on the can it even has a picture of the front of a fiero.
Mar-hyde does make a chemical stripper specifically for plastic body panels... can't remember the product number but on the can it even has a picture of the front of a fiero.
Thanks for this but all I see is a pic of a can. I don't have a pdf reader so I can't see the MSDS. Can you post the info on the MSDS for us? Would be greatly appreciated!
------------------ Coupe85 *** No Longer Fieroless with an 84 SE 2M4*** 1984 2M4 SE - Now in my possesion***1985 Sport Coupe - Sold to Fierobob (Twin Lakes Fiberglass)***1988 Formula - Sold to fellow PFFer
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01:29 AM
watts Member
Posts: 3256 From: Coaldale, AB, Canada Registered: Aug 2001
Well... some of it explains a few people I know...
Teratogenicity (risk of malformation in an unborn fetus): Reproductive Toxicity (risk of sterility): Mutagenicity (risk of heritable genetic effects): Methylene chloride may be considered a weak mutagen based on animal tests. Toluene is a known mutagen. Proposition 65: WARNING: This product contains a chemical known to the state of California to cause cancer and birth defects or other reproductive harm.
Well... some of it explains a few people I know...
Teratogenicity (risk of malformation in an unborn fetus): Reproductive Toxicity (risk of sterility): Mutagenicity (risk of heritable genetic effects): Methylene chloride may be considered a weak mutagen based on animal tests. Toluene is a known mutagen. Proposition 65: WARNING: This product contains a chemical known to the state of California to cause cancer and birth defects or other reproductive harm.
Since we are on this topic of the best sandblasting.... whats the best way to clean up corroded and peeling clear coat tech4 rims?
I tried the acid spray from a detailing shop, cleared some off, tried some aircraft paint remover but it didnt remove much of the old clearcoat, tried finesanding, but would estimate that would take me another 20-30 years to complete.. any way to sandblast? and if so, best stuff to sandblast with?
Thanks
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09:59 AM
freedog81 Member
Posts: 240 From: Orangeburg SC Registered: Feb 2002
See if you can find a antique shop where they restore brass and other metals and tell them you need the rims bead blasted it cost me around 30$ to get it done locally and they came back bare aluminum. I think that would be the easiest and best route to go.
See if you can find a antique shop where they restore brass and other metals and tell them you need the rims bead blasted it cost me around 30$ to get it done locally and they came back bare aluminum. I think that would be the easiest and best route to go.
Thanks freedog81!! gave you a positive
I checked with some sandblaster shops here, but I never thought to check with any auto restorers
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03:25 PM
Feb 3rd, 2004
SplineZ Member
Posts: 952 From: Edmonton, Alberta, Canada Registered: Nov 2002