What else will I need? I know I will need paint and the color I want is I believe "torch red", I think thats the corvette color if not, I want that color. I dont know where to order the paint and clearcoat from either.

All I know is I need to sand down the car, im taking the paint off down to the point where it turns black when you sand it. Then primer, sand again, clean with tack cloth, 1st base coat of torch red, 2nd coat, then clear coat and let dry for a week in my garage with a tarp over it

Is there something vital im missing? Please fill me in on anything

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G Mo

Quote from Street&Strip

I also purchased:

(1) 32038 3M 400 grit wet or dry Imperial sand paper
(2) 32023 3M 1500 grit wet or dry Imperial sand paper
(2) 32044 3M 2000 grit wet or dry Imperial sand paper
(1) 3M series 5000 respirator disposable Please use this. Isocyanates
are a nasty thing.
(2) Generic air line dryers and oil filters
(3) 3M Scotch masking tape rolls of 3/4"
(1) Roll of 1" masking tape 3M
(1) Roll of fine line tape 1/4" vinyl very thin 3M
(6) 10' x 20' 2 mil plastic tarps
(1) Rubber sanding block
(2) 39004 3M Super duty heavy cut rubbing compound
(1) 05993 3M Liquid polish

3rd:
The first thing is to wash the car. I used a lot of soap and a good sponge.
As I washed it, I scrubbed every square inch very well. I then rinsed and
dried the car.
The second step was to remove all of the tar and bugs. This was not too
difficult.
De-wax and degrease using Prep-sol. You may want to do this step two -
three times depending on how often you waxed your car. Reason being is that
the build up can be pretty thick. I used the Prep-Sol by wetting a clean
cloth and wiping over the entire car, bumpers and all rough and smooth
paint. This was to remove all waxes and residues. I did this twice. It
actually makes the car look great, until it evaporates. On the last
application of Prep-Sol wipe on and wipe dry at the same time.
Wet sanding. This will create a mess. This is where your arms get the work
out. Use clear water in a bucket. Use 400 grit wet or dry sandpaper. I
cut mine into strips 3 inches wide by 8.5 inches long. I folded it in half
and half again. (abrasive side out). Dip the sandpaper into the bucket
and get it wet. Wet the car as well. I found it works best to keep the
panel you are sanding wet at all times. Just like you are waxing use
circular motions about 4" in diameter. You will have to rinse out your
sandpaper as you begin to rough up the paint. As you start you will see a
white foam start to form. This is the clear coat. As you proceed you will
begin to see a foam the color of your car appear. At this point you are
through the clear coat. It is not totally necessary to go through the clear
but in some cases you need to know how deep you are going. Paint is not
very thick. Watch out for curved areas and sharper corners as you can
quickly sand through them and hit the plastic. Use your other hand to feel
the surface as you go to see if it is smooth to the touch.
Wet sanding rough spots. In some locations you will have heavily oxidized
paint. Mine was the roof and hood. At this point I used a 320 grit wet or
dry sandpaper. Be careful because this is more abrasive than a 400 grit.
After it is smooth to the touch use a 400 grit to remove the deeper
scratches left by the 320 grit.
Wash the car thoroughly. After you are happy with the sanding it is time
to wash the car. Use a good sponge and a little soap. Wash with the sponge
in one hand and follow by wiping with your other hand to loosen any residue
that may be clinging to the surface. Dry the car with a towel. Don't let
it air dry by itself. This will further remove any residue.
Prep-Sol the surface again. Use the same procedure as before. Wipe on and
leave it to air dry and then wipe on and immediately wipe off.
Inspection and preparation of your "garage". At this point you should see
the entire car look very hazy. Inspect that the car has been sanded
completely over every square inch. If you need to do some touch up sanding
now is the time. The car will have basically the same color as before but
there will be no shine. (Mine was black and after I sanded it was gray).
This tells you that the entire surface is roughed up. I hung tarps all
around the garage, on the ceiling and floor. Believe it or not the fumes
from the paint kill bugs and they love to fall on the hood of the car you
are trying to paint.
Body work / repairs. If needed (mine did not) all repairs should now be
performed. Instructions are on the container of what ever you use. Talk
with your paint dealer on application techniques and working times and
tools. Sand to smooth once completed and remove all dust and residue using
Prep-sol.
Pre-masking. Disconnect the battery! When you spray paint / primer goes
everywhere, even into tiny openings. I don't recommend removing the plastic
trim around the windshield but if that is your preference then go ahead.
Prior to masking you can remove all the trim, door handles, ornaments and
mirrors. I did not remove any of these items. I used a product from 3M
called fine line tape. This is a thin vinyl tape that stretches and curves
to form to the contour of any surface. It is thinner than conventional
masking tapes so it will leave less of a witness line (raised area where the
paint stops). I used 1/4" to cover all the windshield seal, around the
mirror bases, around the antenna base, sunroof gasket that meets the roof,
metal trim over the top of the windows. The purpose of this tape is to give
you a place to stick the regular masking tape. You do not have to cover a
whole item with this. I used one piece to run along the windshield seal
just where it meets with the roof. It will take you some time to mask this
off the way you want it.
Masking. After masking with the fine line tape you can mask with the
regular masking tape. You can purchase masking paper for large areas like
the windshield or use a couple of layers of newspaper. It is your choice.
With whatever you use, you will invariably run into a spot that curves.
Simply fold the paper to follow the contour and stretch the masking tape to
cover the rest. Yes, masking tape will bend a little. Just pull and press
into place, it will stick. I recommend removing the tail light assemblies.
Roll the wire harnesses up, twist tie and remove the bulbs. You may want to
mask the sockets to keep them clean. Mask off and cover the engine. You
can remove the trunk gasket but mine was brittle so I did not. You will be
painting the underside of the hood and deck lid (if you are changing the
color) so cover the labels, etc. with masking tape or fine line tape. If
your labels are loose or peeling off you can use a heavy layer of Petroleum
Jelly to cover it and then wipe it off after the car has dried. Be
extremely careful if you use this because wherever the Vaseline goes the
paint will not adhere. Mask off under the hood as well. Cover all with
sheets of paper. Cover everything. Make sure the overlaps of paper are
taped off so no overspray can get in there. If you are going to paint the
door jambs as well, you will need to leave the doors opened so that they
don't get painted shut. (Disconnect that battery or it will be dead!) To do
this you will need to mask off the entire door opening to the inside of the
car. Hang paper over the entire opening and make sure it is tightly closed.
Paint on an interior will not come out.
Prep-sol again. Doing this will remove any oils left behind from your hands
and lint / dust during the masking portion. Use one wipe on and wipe off
immediately application.
Leave the hood and deck lid propped open with something. I used a pop can
under the hood spring and left the deck lid down but still open. If your
car has the spoiler remove it. It uses 10mm nuts in (4) locations to secure
it. Hang it for painting. Note: the studs and nuts will probably be
rusted. Use WD-40 if you need to but Prep-Sol after to remove any oils.
Paint does not like oil. I also propped the headlight covers up about 1
inch to paint around the sides. I used a spark plug socket on each side to
keep them propped up. (Don't use the headlights to do this, you do not want
them up that high) only enough to paint the sides of the headlight doors.
Spray equipment. At this point you are ready to spray. I used a Binks
Model 62 spray gun with a 66SD tip and a 1 quart cup. I rebuilt the gun
prior to painting to make sure it would work properly. This is a
conventional siphon spray gun. HVLP (High Volume Low Pressure) guns are
expensive but you get less overspray. I used a 3/8" diameter 25' air hose.
Set air at 40 psi for base coat application and 32-35 psi for clear (less
overspray). These pressure values are set by the manufacturer of your
paint. I set the gun to a 5 to 6" fan spray vertical. I used a 20 gallon 5
HP air compressor. I installed a disposable air filter/dryer at the inlet
of the gun along with a pressure regulator for quick access. There are
other guns available but be careful of the lesser expensive guns. The paint
will specify a tip size know this if you have to buy a spray gun. You can
get a decent gun for around $100.00.
Spraying (This is largely technique and requires practice for first timers).
If you are spraying the car yourself then follow this closely. Practice
without paint if you need to or if this is your first paint. Use air and an
empty gun to get the feel of it. Whenever filling the cup always pour
through a strainer. I mixed the basemaker with the paint in a 1:1 ratio
(specified by manufacturer) in an empty clean gallon paint can then poured
it into the paint cup of the gun. If you are using plastic flex additives,
add them in the cup of the gun. For clear coat only, add your activator for
the clear in the cup of the gun. Keep the spray gun at least 8 to 10 inches
from the surface you are spraying. Follow the contour of the surface. If
you get too close you will get a puddle or a nice run / sag in your paint.
This is where the paint runs down the side of the car. Base coats are
usually pretty tolerant to this. Don't get in a hurry to apply. Use a
constant motion with the gun. You will usually spray in a left to right and
then back technique. Do it this way: start at the left (press the trigger
as you begin to move right) continue to move to the right, once you stop at
the right let off the trigger if you are going to go back left then press
the trigger when you begin to move. In other words, do not leave the gun
spraying as you switch directions moving right to left or vice versa. Go
one arms length or off the car. If your arm stops moving, stop spraying.
This will prevent spray from collecting at the stop and start points. You
can effectively spray 3 or 4 ft wide on each pass. Overlap each pass about
half starting at the top and working your way down. The way I painted my
hood, roof and decklid was I stood on the side by the front wheel and
started in the middle and went windshield to radiator working my way out
(towards me). I spray the sides of the car first including the front and
back ends then the hood, roof and decklid. In my opinion, this will
prevent overspray from settling on the hood, roof and decklid. Check your
work before you move on to the next application. CLEAN THE GUN OUT WHEN YOU
SWITCH MATERIALS. I used Lacquer thinner for this. Primer, clean gun, base
paint, clean gun, clear, clean gun.
How many coats? I sprayed (3) base coats and (3) clear coats. I use a
mid-temperature paint (70 to 80 degrees ambient temperature). It had a
flash time of 10 minutes. This means that I can re-coat after 10 minutes.
I waited over night to apply the clear. The paint that I used allowed up to
24 hours for clear coat application. If you wait over night, then before
you spray the clear, dust the car off with a dry lint free cloth. I used
about 1/2 gallon of base paint and 1/2 gallon of clear coat. DO NOT MIX
BASE PAINT AND CLEAR COAT. The base paint uses an additive called basemaker
and the clear uses an additive called an activator.
After spraying. Give the car a week or two to cure. Delivery time (cured
and derivable) will be specified on the particular product that you used.
Mine was 24 hours, but I gave it a week. At this time you can do one of two
things: 1. You can be tickled that you did an excellent job and un-mask
everything and be done or 2. You can polish.
Polishing. If you are like me and want a perfect mirror shine then read on.
I used a 1500 grit wet or dry sandpaper and wet sanded the entire vehicle.
This will take some time. I used a firm rubber sanding block to sand the
large flatter areas. Don't apply too much pressure but apply some. You
should work up a light white residue. You will feel the paper grab when you
are getting close. Dry the spot you are working on and look at the
reflection from an angle. (While you are sanding you are looking 90 degrees
to the surface), sight down the side or across the hood to see the images.
Look at the way objects in the room appear. If they are not clear enough
then continue sanding. Once you are happy with that, I used a 2000 grit wet
or dry sandpaper following the same approach. After you are happy with
that, I used a Dewalt 90 degree (angle) polisher to buff the car at 1400
RPM. I used the hook and loop foam rubbing pad (made for polishers) it is
about 7 inches in diameter, and 3M Super Duty heavy cut liquid rubbing
compound. I followed this by buffing the car three times with a 3M clear
coat safe liquid polishing compound and a new polishing pad at 1800 RPM.
After this I was done. I waited 3 months before I waxed the car to give it
ample time to dry out.

Its that easy????

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Bobby from NW Indiana
86 Fiero GT, Looking to ad a 93 Northstar soon
thespeedshop@sbcglobal.net