What role does the Pickup Coil play in the distributor? If one doesn't have spark @ the ignition coil, could the Pickup Coil be the culprit? Thanks.

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-jason
'87SE

Yes, it could be. However, the ignition module is FAR more likely to be the culprit. The pickup coils seem to last forever compared to the Ig. coils and modules. Then again, they do die.

If you have not replaced the module in a while, try it first.

Good luck!
Beno

I've had p/up coils die on me. I've never had an ign module go bad yet. Its different for everyone, but with that said, generally the ign module goes bad more often. Don't forget the ign coil in the mix either. It can and does also go bad.

Well, my distributor was new/rebuilt 'bout a year ago. Also, I have a new ign. coil on right now. I'm going to pop off the cap and see what everything looks like today. Wondering if it is something simple. Going to clean the ign. coil's ground and solder on a new 4-wire plug for the dist. Anyway to test the pickup coil? Thanks.

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-jason
'87SE

Yes,
1) remove the distrib from engine
2)disconnect teh P/U coil from the module
3) test each terminal of the lead to gnd with an ohmmeter while flexing them to check for broken wires inside the connector. Reading should be infinite during all tests.
4) connect the ohmmeter to both leads at the same time and flex again. reading should be steady between 500 and 150 ohms.

If it fails either one of these tests it is bad.

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Another test for the pickup coil is to hook a multimeter set on low AC voltage (~2V) to the two wires from the coil. Make sure all wires are clear of any rotating parts and crank the engine. The meter should show some voltage from the pickup coil.

Alright, thanks for the suggestions. I'll try that Steve, as I'm not too interested in pulling the distributor to remove the pickup coil if I don't have to. Tonight I cleaned the ign. coil's mount as it was rusty and soldered on the new 4-wire connector from The Fiero Store (which, btw, I have an extra new 2-wire connector). So, I suspect either the pickup coil, ign module, or the wiring itself. I'm assuming the black wire w/ red stripe is the 12v power source? I need to look for a wiring diagram (sp?). Thanks, all!

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-jason
'87SE

Oooh, you have to do more to remvoe the p/u coil than remove the distributor. Thats a whole 'nother story. I hope what your trying tonight fixes it.

great...
distributor rebuild
another plan for using my new camera...

quote Originally posted by 1MohrFiero: Oooh, you have to do more to remvoe the p/u coil than remove the distributor. Thats a whole 'nother story. I hope what your trying tonight fixes it.

Yeah. I read the 'How-To' on replacing the pickup coil. I'm going to do what you suggested and have the ign. module tested. Also going to check the input 12v. Thanks all!

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-jason
'87SE
'90GTZ

That was the culprit of my no spark problem.

quote Originally posted by Dropzone: I need to look for a wiring diagram (sp?).

All the wiring diagrams are listed here. Big images, but worth the wait, even on dialup. The black/red wire is the ground to the ECM. The 12v power wire is the pink one.

Edit: I always tell people to use phillips screws to hold the ignition module down if they change it. It is much easier to remove the IM on the side of a road if you can use a phillps screwdriver and not have to fiddle with the hex-head screws.

PS. Use heat sink compound on the bottom of the new IM if you replace it.

[This message has been edited by Steve Normington (edited 01-15-2004).]

Well, the Ign. module IS getting 12 volts. I flipped through my Chilton and found a diagram (thanks though Steve for the URL!!). Yeah, I found out the pink wire is the hot wire (also figured out that it is only hot when the key is in 'Run' position. Again, digram indicated that.)

I also checked the pickup coil w/ distrib. still in car. In Haynes, it tells you to do two things: (1) do a resistance check on the two leads (kinda like you suggested, 1MohrFiero), (2) touch one probe to one of the leads and the other probe to the dis. body (Should read infinite). I had a reading of .767 Ohms on the K scale. SO, it is either ign. module or ECM.

Also, while cranking the engine, I made sure to check to see if the ign. rotor was spinning. Since the dist. is cam driven and the cam is crank driven, if the timing chain were to break, I seriously doubt one would get spark, right? Thanks all!!

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-jason
'87SE
'90GTZ

Well, the ign. module checked out good (3/3 tests). I checked all the wiring and the 4-wire plug had continunity to the ECM. The ign. module is getting 12v, the pickup coil shows .767 K Ohms (767 Ohms - within range of 500 to 1500 Ohms), and the ign. coil checks up (also ign. coil is a new coil - brand Advance Auto carries). Sooooo, I believe I have a bad ECM. Am I missing anything? Thanks.

BTW, the white wire from the 2-wire connector, that goes to the tach. filter. Would that keep a car from getting spark? I doubt it since the tach. filter is only connected to the gauge. If I remember correctly, the tach. filter registered @ 14.41 K Ohms. Sound about right?

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-jason
'87SE
'90GTZ

Was the rotor turning when you cranked the engine? If not, then you probably have a broken timing chain. You should be able to look in the oil fill port while someone cranks the engine. If you don't see the rockers moving, then you need to look at your timing chain. If the rotor is turning, then you need to look some more. Did you do the test for voltage from the pickup coil?

IMS, you can disconnect the wires that go from the IM to the ECM and the IM will control the timing on its own. Don't do this until someone else has confirmed that this won't damage anything.

Pickup coils can (and often do) fail intemittantly. May test ok, then fail. Same with ign coils.
Replacing pickup coil isn't hard as long as you are careful. The first time takes about an hour, next time 25 mins....

ANYONE can drive a new car!

Do not forget the heat factor. Electrical components can fail once heated, and coils are good for this since the wires can melt together and short.

quote Originally posted by Dropzone: Well, the ign. module checked out good (3/3 tests). I checked all the wiring and the 4-wire plug had continunity to the ECM. The ign. module is getting 12v, the pickup coil shows .767 K Ohms (767 Ohms - within range of 500 to 1500 Ohms), and the ign. coil checks up (also ign. coil is a new coil - brand Advance Auto carries). Sooooo, I believe I have a bad ECM. Am I missing anything? Thanks. BTW, the white wire from the 2-wire connector, that goes to the tach. filter. Would that keep a car from getting spark? I doubt it since the tach. filter is only connected to the gauge. If I remember correctly, the tach. filter registered @ 14.41 K Ohms. Sound about right?

It's possible that a bad tach filter could cause a no spark condition - just unplug the tach filter and see if you get spark to verify this.

But the MOST LIKELY cause for your problem is the ignition module. This is a fairly complex electronic module; static tests may say it's OK when in fact it is completely dead. The ONLY sure test is to replace it with a good one and see if that corrects the problem. If so, you're good to go - if not, you've now got a spare; but it in the trunk with the tools you need to change it and you'll be glad you did one day in the not-too-distant future.

Thanks all that replied! Yesterday I tossed in the reman. ECM and it fired right up. I guess the ECM wasn't getting a signal from the IM to tell the ign. coil to spark....

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-jason
'87SE
'90GTZ