I have bled my clutch according to the world of Archie. And I still have about 3/4" free play at the top of the pedal. It will not disengage the clutch when pressed. Push rod only travels about 3/4". Either I still have air in the system, which I doubt or I have a problem with my Master Cylinder. Any suggestions? If it is the Master Cylinder should I rebuild or buy already rebuilt?

hello, Get a adjustable banjo rod from Rodney Dickman Parts about 20 bucks, thanks Norm.

is the u-bracket part of your pedal bent? if it is, you wont be able to use the full range of travel at the slave cylinder, which i think should be 1&1/4 to 1&1/2 inch. at rest, does the clutch pedal sit even with the brake, or does one sit higher than the other?

[This message has been edited by lurker (edited 01-07-2004).]

okay i had the same problem. Archies method didnt work for me.

GRAVITY BLEED

front higher than rear, open slave all the way, drain into canister until its a non black liquid. dont let the master dry out, keep it filled properly and then replace the bleeder tight. and your done.

Also, archie says it doesnt work but i have proved him wrong, take the rod at the end of the slave cylinder out, and make a longer one, you will have to experiment for your car, about what length you will need and then replace it, it made my clutch work really well! i only have to push it in half way for it to fully disengage!!

Also this is a goofy thing but i was messin with the shifter linkages. and the cables were floppin around on the mounts under the center consol, so i took the clips that hold them down and flipped them, this made a huge difference, no more play, just smoothe shifting!
Good Luck

------------------
Cameron Hoag

~*I want more than this world has to offer.
AIM: CDubbZ111

maybe you have a bent pedal

C Dub, Like I said get the adjustable banjo rod from Rodney Dickman.

What Norm said.

Also--check the shaft bushings that the clutch and brake pedal pivot on. That's good for a little wiggle room. Replacements at autozone for around 2 bucks.

-Jeff

Did you bleed the slave? After bleeding the system, remove the bleeder screw and push the slave pushrod all the way back into its housing. Then while holding it in, put the screw back in and tighten (two person job).

This lets the air out that is between the screw and the pushrod. Otherwise, you will always have air.

10:1 you're dealing with the late model master with the reservior in the middle.

I have found that trying to bleed using the pedal got me nowhere on my 88 with the later model master. Gravity bleed work worked somewhat but not good enough to get the clutch to disengage. A vacuum pump pulling on the slave bleeder finally got it.

On my '84 with the early model master, I can clear the air from the system in about 6 iterations using the pedal.

To check the master seals, unbolt the slave from the transaxle. Then push the pedal. If it goes down part way and then gets rock hard you still have air in the system. The reason the pedal gets hard is that the slave plunger is all the way out and contacting the retainer. If the pedal stays squishy but goes all the way to the floor, then I'd suspect the master.