after all the engine problems.......now this. i pretty sure i know what it is.my e-brake is not hooked up.when i had that brake done(it caught fire because of this problem)he hooked the e-brake piece in a way he said it wouldnt come off.i'm not for sure but i think thats it.how do i fix this?
Posts: 92 From: northampton, pa Registered: Nov 2002
the mech i took it to said that the spring will make it ingage unless the cable is hooked up.
If the spring is making the ebrake engage, the you've got a calipers that was rebuilt wrong. I've found two of them that were assembled with piston assembles from the wrong side. I.e. a right caliper with a left piston assembly. (the ebrake is on when the lever is against the stops.) I don't know where these calipers come from, because both of mine where on the cars when I bought them and when I tried to get the ebrakes working I found the problem. I'd like to know what store sold them so I could track the problem.
Good luck, Dave
Posts: 185 From: Fayetteville, NC Registered: Oct 2003
Call me crazy, but doesn't the e.brake cable put the tension on the caliper to engage the e.brake feature and the spring merely return the brake arm back to a neutral position once the tension is removed....
Replace the brake hose!! I had a caliper 'lockup' and catch fire. It turned out to be the brake hose. The metal clip that holds it in place rusted on the inside of the clip, where it contacts the rubber. The rust swells and pinches the hose!!!! It acts like a check valve and builds up pressure at the piston and won't release the brakes.
[This message has been edited by Michelhaugh (edited 01-06-2004).]
Posts: 13353 From: kansas city, mo Registered: Jul 2002
yep, i'm voting on the hose as a good place to start.
turn the wheel, notice how much pressure is on the rotor. now open the bleeder and turn the wheel again. if it's easier then it's probably the hose. if there is no change then the caliper is holding or the e-brake part of the piston is causing problems