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Dificulty of changing a Clutch Slave Cylender by Razor_Wing
Started on: 12-31-2003 03:46 PM
Replies: 5
Last post by: Razor_Wing on 01-01-2004 02:49 PM
Razor_Wing
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Report this Post12-31-2003 03:46 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Razor_WingClick Here to Email Razor_WingSend a Private Message to Razor_WingDirect Link to This Post
Well, mine's been going out seince I changed my master cylender this summer. My dad just went to drive it down to me at work so I'll have something to drive, and it will only let you change gears....once...you can start it, put it in a gear, and your staying in that gear. I'm going to pick one up probly tommrow from a Advance Auto and try to change it. Just wanting to know about how hard is it? I don't have my shop manuel with me. Thx in advance guys!

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SCCA FIERO
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Report this Post12-31-2003 03:50 PM Click Here to See the Profile for SCCA FIEROSend a Private Message to SCCA FIERODirect Link to This Post
Getting all the air out once you're done is pretty hard.
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Tom Corey
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Report this Post12-31-2003 04:54 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Tom CoreyClick Here to Email Tom CoreySend a Private Message to Tom CoreyDirect Link to This Post
Come on guys! How hard can this be? The slave cylinder has two bolts and if you're really lazy, you can jack the front of the car up and gravity bleed the slave cylinder. Two recommendations though - 1) Use only a GM replacement part (no aftermarket parts) and 2) go to V-8 Archie's web site, read and follow his procedure for bleeding the slave clinder. It is a less than a 1 hour job!

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Tom Corey
Melbourne, FL
87 Green T-Top GT 5Spd SBC ZZ3 V8
88 Yellow T-Top GT, 4.9L Caddy, 4T60E

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musicman_L7
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Report this Post01-01-2004 12:38 AM Click Here to See the Profile for musicman_L7Click Here to Email musicman_L7Send a Private Message to musicman_L7Direct Link to This Post
One note, is that when I bought my "GM" slave cyl from GM Parts Direct it was the same price as the old stainless steel slave cylinders, but what came in the box was a cast iron one... Just like what the aftermarket sells. I don't remember the part nos. anymore, but if that's all you can get (the cast iron one), don't waste the money of buying it at a dealer. Just buy a good one from a parts store. I bought a new Wagner master cyl. for my clutch from O'Reilly Auto Parts today for $75.

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Nic
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Now accepting donations for my diseased paint...

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StuGood
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Report this Post01-01-2004 01:07 AM Click Here to See the Profile for StuGoodSend a Private Message to StuGoodDirect Link to This Post
A few details:
Use 9/16" line wrench, to take the flexible line off the slave cylinder... don't forget that, since the line comes in from underneath, you'll turn the fitting CW (as viewed from above) to loosen it.

13mm wrench removes the 2 mounting nuts, and the cylinder pulls right off. Might want to wrap a rag around it before you take it off, since hydraulic fluid will probably spill out - and you don't want to get any on painted surfaces.

BTW, it helps to remove the intake duct, to improve access to the slave cylinder (same story for V6 and Duke engines).

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Razor_Wing
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Report this Post01-01-2004 02:49 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Razor_WingClick Here to Email Razor_WingSend a Private Message to Razor_WingDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by StuGood:

Use 9/16" line wrench, to take the flexible line off the slave cylinder... don't forget that, since the line comes in from underneath, you'll turn the fitting CW (as viewed from above) to loosen it.

I just tried that but it snaped the little peice of solid pipe that is between the braided and the slave in 1/2 . Should I get a new line and just put it in or could I get just the braided part? Does a new clutch line have ALL the tubing from the master cylender to the slave, including the connectors? Where is the best place to get a new clutch line?

I need these ASAP as this is my daily driver and it currenly sits in my driveway with no slave cylender .

Bleeding is about like bleeding a brake...is'nt it?

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