Well, mine's been going out seince I changed my master cylender this summer. My dad just went to drive it down to me at work so I'll have something to drive, and it will only let you change gears....once...you can start it, put it in a gear, and your staying in that gear. I'm going to pick one up probly tommrow from a Advance Auto and try to change it. Just wanting to know about how hard is it? I don't have my shop manuel with me. Thx in advance guys!

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www.freewebs.com/fierogti

Getting all the air out once you're done is pretty hard.

Come on guys! How hard can this be? The slave cylinder has two bolts and if you're really lazy, you can jack the front of the car up and gravity bleed the slave cylinder. Two recommendations though - 1) Use only a GM replacement part (no aftermarket parts) and 2) go to V-8 Archie's web site, read and follow his procedure for bleeding the slave clinder. It is a less than a 1 hour job!

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Tom Corey
Melbourne, FL
87 Green T-Top GT 5Spd SBC ZZ3 V8
88 Yellow T-Top GT, 4.9L Caddy, 4T60E

One note, is that when I bought my "GM" slave cyl from GM Parts Direct it was the same price as the old stainless steel slave cylinders, but what came in the box was a cast iron one... Just like what the aftermarket sells. I don't remember the part nos. anymore, but if that's all you can get (the cast iron one), don't waste the money of buying it at a dealer. Just buy a good one from a parts store. I bought a new Wagner master cyl. for my clutch from O'Reilly Auto Parts today for $75.

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Nic
1987 GT 5-spd

Now accepting donations for my diseased paint...

A few details:
Use 9/16" line wrench, to take the flexible line off the slave cylinder... don't forget that, since the line comes in from underneath, you'll turn the fitting CW (as viewed from above) to loosen it.

13mm wrench removes the 2 mounting nuts, and the cylinder pulls right off. Might want to wrap a rag around it before you take it off, since hydraulic fluid will probably spill out - and you don't want to get any on painted surfaces.

BTW, it helps to remove the intake duct, to improve access to the slave cylinder (same story for V6 and Duke engines).

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quote Originally posted by StuGood: Use 9/16" line wrench, to take the flexible line off the slave cylinder... don't forget that, since the line comes in from underneath, you'll turn the fitting CW (as viewed from above) to loosen it.

I just tried that but it snaped the little peice of solid pipe that is between the braided and the slave in 1/2 . Should I get a new line and just put it in or could I get just the braided part? Does a new clutch line have ALL the tubing from the master cylender to the slave, including the connectors? Where is the best place to get a new clutch line?

I need these ASAP as this is my daily driver and it currenly sits in my driveway with no slave cylender .

Bleeding is about like bleeding a brake...is'nt it?