Remove the horn button Remove the attached wire and using a pair of needle nose pliers, push down and turn the part at the 10oclock position, 1/4 turn to the left. It should pop out. Parts include a small black plastic keeper, a round piece of metal and a spring. Next remove the clip that (should) be over the steering wheel nut. Remove the steering wheel nut and with a rented steering wheel puller, remove the steering wheel. Using a small phillips screwdriver, remove the hazzard switch on the RH side of the steering column. Next, rent a steering wheel lock plate remover tool. Install the tool and tighten it until you can see the small 3/4 round spring clip that secures the lock plate. Try to get it to go down about 1/4" past the spring clip. Using an ice pic and small regular screwdriver, pry the clip out and above the notch it rests in. Loosen the tool and pull the clip all the way up and off of the shaft. Next, remove the lock plate and plastic horn part. Note that these will only go back on one way...for future knowledge. Remove the large spring that fits around the shaft. Next remove the phillips screw on the LH side that hold down a metal part which fits into a slot on the plastic part not visible, but attaches to the turn signal lever. Next remove the 3 phillips screws that hold the turn signal switch in position. Pull the switch out of the column as far as possible. You can disconnect it at the bottom if you need more length. Turn the ign switch to the on position and remove the small plastic piece with 2 brass prongs sticking out. Note that the metal clip hooks to the back of the plastic piece and rests under the plastic. Directly under the lock cyl is a torx 15 screw which must be removed. This holds the lock cyl in place and once removed the lock cyl slide out. (NOTES ABOUT REINSTILLATION Replace the lock cyl and torx bolt. Carefully install the piece with the two prongs. Note: it will NOT go back into position unless the lock cyl is in the on position. When you install the piece on the LH side that holds down the metal piece for the TS lever, make sure that the little round ball of the metal piece fits in the slot made for it. You may need to move the TS lever up and down until it falls in place. The rest is nothing more than reversing the teardown procedure. Good luck!
------------------ 87 FIERO GT 2.8 5spd
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Dec 18th, 2003
Posts: 759 From: Sherwood Park, Alberta, Canada Registered: May 2003
Yeah I somewhat have the same problem. I'm going to eventually get some locks from somewhere because I don't have any on my car....this'll be useful for me. One of these days I'll open up my door and find out what is rolling around on the inside. Sometimes when I accel or brake, there's a little something that rolls in my doorframe. It actually is somewhat entertaining for some reason..... BTW GTDude, thanks for your help earlier, and oh......my.......gosh what the heck did you just say?! hehe, jk. I actually understood it very well.
------------------ Practice makes perfect, but since nobody's perfect, why practice?
If life gives you lemons, take them and throw them at people you hate.
Posts: 2414 From: Beckwith Township, ON, Canada Registered: Jan 2003
Originally posted by GSXRBOBBY: I bought the lock kit from the Fiero store and I am going to replace the pass. door handle and all the locks on the 86 Fiero and I was hoping to find some help from somebody that has done it before!
Go with what GTDude said regarding the ignition lock cylinder, minus the comment about removing the wire behind the horn button (see his post at the end of this thread.
Decklid lock... easy. What I'm about to write assumes that you have a notchback. It is probably different for the fastback lid.
Open the decklid.
Disconnect any wires you may have at the latch for the trunk and/or ajar light, and the remote release solenoid.
Mark the current position of the latch with your favorite method, and remove the two bolts which hold it in place (10mm heads I believe), and set the latch aside.
Directly below the lock cylinder, on the bottom "lip" of the lid, you'll see a metal plate with two phillips screws in it. Remove the screws, and pull the plate straight down. This is where you discover that it's not really a plate, but an L-shaped bracket which keeps the lock cylinder in place.
If it hasn't fallen out, grab the flat rod which was sticking into the latch, and pull straight back toward the front of the decklid. The lock cylinder will follow.
If necessary, transfer the cylinder/latch linkage bar to the new lock cylinder.
Installation is the reverse of removal. Just make sure you line the latch up as close as possible to it's original position before tightening it down.
It's been too long since I've done the door lock cylinders, so hopefully someone else will complete this part for you. All I remember is a multitude of bleeding knuckles.
1985 2M6 SE (his) 1984 2M4 (hers)
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[This message has been edited by dguy (edited 12-18-2003).]
James Bond 007 Member
Posts: 8745 From: California.U.S.A. Registered: Dec 2002
How to remove the door skin without removeing the inner door pannel
1.Remove the Plastic Torx screws arround the edge of the door. 2.Remove the 2 nuts holding the side mirror on the inner edge were the window pops through (use a curved wrench).Then remove the side mirror. 3.Pop the rivets on the bottom of the door skin with a hammer and chisel. 4.I belive there are 3 or 4 screws under the molding,so try and lift the door skin off befor removeing the molding. 5.Pull back the door skin and remove the door locking washer. 6.Now lift the door skin up and off.Thats it.
For the door handles your gonna have to remove the door skin.... if you have smaller arms this will be easy but bigger arms is a paint the ass.... there is a rod with a plastic housing connected to the handle you will need to remove the rod from the handle and take off the plastic housing... then remove the 2 bolts holding the handle to the door.... the handle should slide out easily.... then put the new handle in bolt it in then reconnect the rod and housing.... very easy but hard to get to.... GOOD LUCK
Posts: 5498 From: Tarpon Springs, FL USA Registered: Nov 2000
Ignition and decklid locks are pretty straightforward - but those door locks (and that door handle) are much more difficult. It's possible to change them from inside by removing the door panel, and also possible to do it by removing the door skin.
If you have small arms or know someone with small arms to help you may be OK doing it from the inside. It'll take a while, and you'll learn some new ways of using old words to express yourself before you're done. Disadvantage: you're going to lose some skin and bleed all over things...
Better is to remove the door skin; when you do, the door handle and lock are right there and easy to change. This might take a little longer, but you'll keep your skin and your sanity. Disadvantage: you're going to need to replace some plastic rivets and molding clips.
If you want to do an excellent job, take the door latch out while you're in there, soak it in solvent to remove gummy grease and dirt, relube it, and put it back in. It'll work a whole lot better if you do this and you won't have to worry about breaking keys...
Posts: 3122 From: Southern Indiana USA Registered: Aug 2003