Alright, I took about 4-5 hours to do this, looked at the rack for extended amounts of time to figure things out, and I believe the way I'm doing it, will work.

As seen in the above pictures (and the ones below) I completely cut off the one mount (Lord help me if this doesn't work, a new cross member.) I'm doing this the easiest and most direct way I believe possible. I even think, I *might* not need to have any welding done, but probably will. The other mount I modfied by creating a dip in it. So in effect rack will rest up against the cross member, the one modified mount, is made so I can still use that U-strap seen in the one picture, The strap will cross over and hold it down tightly, and perfectly, the mounts sitting on top of the cross member will also be mounted, the one is going to need another metal piece added to hold it because the cross member bends to the back, the other mount has just engough clearance where I think a hole can be drilled and bolted, I can also add a spacer of sorts behind the rack, and use the other strap on that. The last pic seen with the screwdriver pointing is where the tierods are thick enough to be rethreaded again at 5/8", and use the f-body ball joints and ends, I was mistaken when I told obssesed that the rod was thick all the way down. Now obssesed is working on his own variation of the rack with a 97 rack, mines from a 2000 3.8 camaro. I believe cutting and rethreading the rods where I point my screwdriver at, should work, as the whole system is push pull in a sense... So I don't think I'll have bumpsteer problems, but time will tell. The other thing is, my steering link is pointed at a higher angle then the factory one, but I aligned it, and Think it should work with maybe some modifications to the one inside the car, or possibly cutting the top of the steering hole a little more. So whats everyone's take?

Genius is one percent inspiration and ninety nine percent perspiration.

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Proud owner of a Bright Red 1993 Grand Prix SE, 3.1 V6, 4 speed on the floor, fully loaded, very nice

In Progress Restoration/and attempt of a 1984 SE, powered by a 2.8 V6, and getting a future 350/383 SBC (after I can afford the rebuild). ;)

Great progress but what about the 88s? Is this going to work on the 88 setup?

I don't know, I don't have an 88.

I have a rack on the way and will see how well it will work in the 88

nice work so far keep us posted on the progress

Dude, if that's the rack off of your car, it looks like power steering is the last of your worries!!! There's more rust on your front cross member than my entire race car had, and I felt it necessary to sandblast the entire chassis.

I'm having a hard time visualizing what the steering shaft angle will be, as mine is an 88 and the cross member is significantly different. I can't offer much help, but good luck, it looks like you've got a handful. Since you've already modified the cross member, don't be afraid to weld the necessary brackets onto it if that's what will work the best. Once you have your brackets made, somebody can weld that in a matter of minutes, probably only charge you a few bucks.

Rickady88GT, I'm looking forward to seeing what you come up with for the 88. Your S* swap is one of my favorite documented swaps yet, and your mod execution is pretty top notch.

Bryce
88 GT

quote Originally posted by Nashco: Dude, if that's the rack off of your car, it looks like power steering is the last of your worries!!! There's more rust on your front cross member than my entire race car had, and I felt it necessary to sandblast the entire chassis.

You're lucky then. I've seen much worse. I was going to say "welcome to Michigan", but from your location I see you already know how much salt they put on the roads.

Thats not bad at all - you guys should see the cross member on my 85

Notice the rear frame rails too

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http://dewie.no-ip.com

[This message has been edited by Dewie (edited 11-30-2003).]

[This message has been edited by Dewie (edited 11-30-2003).]

Thanks Nashco, But you should see the sad shape of my extra 88 front suspension, at least it did not cost much, only $50. Just look at all that dust LOL It must suck to live where your car dies of "Car Cancer" Rust. Out here its hard to find rusted out cars. This is what I will put the power steering rack on but it wont be modified. I plan to do all the mods to the rack.
I got a Chevette power rack first but did not think it was the right one for me.

quote Originally posted by Rickady88GT: Thanks Nashco, But you should see the sad shape of my extra 88 front suspension, at least it did not cost much, only $50. Just look at all that dust LOL It must suck to live where your car dies of "Car Cancer" Rust. Out here its hard to find rusted out cars.

Haha...look at aaaallllll that dust! I know what you mean about the rust, I'm originally from the Seattle area where cars will mold ruin the interior before a spec of rust would appear! I hate rust, and Michigan DOT seems to love it...I guess they know they'll be building more cars if they keep pouring salt on the roads. Out west they don't even use salt..they plow the roads, use sand if necessary, and use a liquid non-corrosive agent on the highways. Nobody in Michigan believes me when I tell them there's just as much snow in Idaho where my parents live, but they don't use any salt on the roads. Seriously, you'd think I was trying to sell them snake oil if you saw their reactions!

I've got mixed reactions on modifying the rack vs. the cross member. In the case of modifying the cross member, you have an extra cross member if anything goes wrong and then if the rack ever needs replaced it's a pretty simple swap. However, in the case of modifying the rack, you'll always be able to return back to the normal Fiero parts in the event you're unsatisfied with the power steering or you change your priorities. I used to be of the mindset that I would modify the rack, but as I gain more confidence and experience, I am more willing to make "permanent" changes because I don't fear screwing up so much.

Bryce
88 GT

No worries, the rust buildup isn't serious actually, the picture brings it out worse then it really is. Its just some surface scale that will be sandblasted when I'm done modifying the rack. This fiero is actually the only Michigan fiero I've seen with 157k miles on it and not completely rotted out. Most of the frame is still solid other than a few areas in the back, and on the edges where the metal pieces are stamped together below the door. The frame rails are still there compltely, and this car has been in michigan its entire life. The front of the frame is pretty good too. I had problems pulling the bolts on the original rack though, all 4 of them broke off from the rust, and 2 bolts broke off into the frame from taking off the front suspension. I think I'll use stainless steel bolts for different parts of the suspension so this doesn't happen again. The steering input shaft is angled upwards about 3 or so inches than factory but shouldn't be too hard to make work still. Might have to make the steering shaft hole bigger. Is stainless steel good for using it on the major suspension bolts, or is it a no-no?

Sounds and looks like a tak-togeather job.Whatever floats your boat if you trust your assembly to hold up on the highway then go for it.

Oh I'm not going to trust it till its reinforced, but it'll be done when I have more time and work on it. I'll make sure everything is tight and aligned properly first, and the tie rod ends will have to be done right. Once my car is done and I can drive the car with the rack, I'll drive it around my neighborhood a few times to make sure it doesn't break or something. Now when I put the small block into my fiero, is there enough room to fit a power steering pump with the sbc? I really don't wanna have to wire up an eletric controller as the MR2's is ecm controlled, and I'm unsure if there are other electronic pumpsout there that could work. Itsure would be easier though. Could archie's a/c spot on his kit be made to fit a pump?

I got a one owner 84 from a guy in NC and it has 0 rust. I've been over it with a fine tooth comb. We don't usually have much of a rust problem, but this one doesn't even have any surface rust!!!! Lucky me.....about time....lol.

Hey.....it looks like this rack is gonna work. What kind of pump are you gonna use? Electric up front or engine driven rear?

Phil

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87 FIERO GT 2.8 5spd
0-60 in 6.8 seconds!
If you found my advice helpful, please take the time to give me a positive rating. Thanks

[This message has been edited by GTDude (edited 12-01-2003).]

Not sure, I need to figure out if i can fit a mechanical pump on a sbc in the back.

bump

that rack didnt look very rusted.

here is the pictures of a 87 t-top GT i picked up that came from cleveland ohio.

ewww. No work done lately on the rack, been working on my custom idiot guage overlays. See signiture.

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For more info on the idiot light overlays please click here:

https://www.fiero.nl/forum/Forum1/HTML/036100.html

quote Originally posted by 1985FieroGT: Not sure, I need to figure out if i can fit a mechanical pump on a sbc in the back.

You may be able to squeeze the small pump from a Toyota in there. They use a remote tank and are popular with the circle track crowd.

Roy