Greetings to all. This is another attempt to obtaining some info that will help me correct the problem with my 86 SE, 2.8. I can't get the rpms below 1400. I have done the following:
1. Tested the PCV
2. Tested and cleaned the EGR.
3. Removed and inspected the EGR tube for cracks (including hairline).
4. Replaced all of the EGR gaskets.
5. Removed TB and cleaned thoroughly with TB cleaner. Also removed the IAC valve from the TB and cleaned out where it goes mounted.
6. Removed the Air Plenum and checked all vacuum hoses/lines underneath it for cracks.
7. Replaced the TPS.
8. Replaced the O2 sensor.
9. Replaced the solenoid located on the passenger side in the engine compartment next to the thermostat housing. This eliminated the 32 SES code I was getting.
10. Replaced the MAP sensor.
11. Tested and inspected the Evaporative Emmissions Control Canister.
12. Replaced the coolant temp sensor.

The only sensor I have not replaced is the one located in the air filter canister and I have not replaced the IAC. Can anyone tell me if either one of these is defective would cause a high rpm? Any suggestions will be greatly appreciated. Thanks.

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JAG

Check the idle screw on the TB. Someone might have messed around with it. I don't know if there is a factory spec setting, hopefully someone will pipe in with it. Long shot, but something to check.

Also check your timing, should be 10* BTDC on the 2.8.

[This message has been edited by Street&Strip Performance (edited 11-19-2003).]

Have you driven it since you cleaned the throttle body and the IAC?? If you clean these, You need to drive the car over 40mph so the ECM can reset the IAC. The MAT sensor on the air cleaner just measure air temp. The IAC stands for Idle Air Control. It could be bad, But usually they just get dirty. Now that you've cleaned it, It needs to be reset.

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Happiness isn't around the corner...
Happiness IS the corner.

Thanks for the suggestion. Already had checked for the Idle screw adjustment. I backed it out and then back in to where it is slightly touching. Checked timing also. Any more suggestions? Thanks.

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JAG

OK, One more Idea. Since you removed the TB, Did you seat the metal tube that plugs into the bottom of the TB all the way? There is an "O" ring that seals this tube and sometimes it splits/dries out from age and allows more air into the idle circuit. The Tube plugs into the base of the TB from the lower intake.

Thanks for the suggestion. Yes, I did make sure that one was in and not cracked or damaged when I put the TB back. There is one plug which, after taking the engine apart partially to give it a minor overhaul, I could never figure out where it goes. The cable runs together with another cable which goes connected to the transmission. I assume its the speedometer sensor switch. Well there is another one running along side of it and I can't figure out where it goes connected to. I doubt it has to do anything with the high rpm problem, but you never know. Does anyone know where it goes hooked up to??? Please advise. Thanks to all.

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JAG

Did you check all of the plastic hoses under the plenum. They can become brittle with age and crack. This will cause a vacuum leak and high rpms at idle. You must make sure that all of your vacuum lines are hooked up and not cracked. Do you have cruise control? It could be that your vacuum reservoir can is rusted out and leaking also. As for the elctrical connections on your tranny, one set should be for the VSS, the other could be for your reverse lights. At least that is the way they are on my 5 speed Getrag.

O.K you cleaned your IAC, but did you check it for proper distance? If so, try this; Turn key on (but start engine), jump the two lower left pins ont the test connector (behind the cigar lighter panel), allow a few seconds for the the IAC to close, then unplug the Connector from the IAC. Remove the jumper and start engine. If it idles above or around 800rpm, start looking for a vacume leak. If it stalls or idles very low, recheck that IAC setting and or timming.
By the way, if your not going to use your AC for awhile and like the way race engines rumble and pop when you let-off the gass, leave the IAC unpluged and just turn you idle screw up tp about 600rpm (it's hidden under a thin plug on top of the TB). It sounds awsume that way.

I'll do the IAC test and see what happens. As for the vacuum lines and hoses, I inspected all of them thoroughly for cracks and also made sure they were connected properly. My reverse lights are working so I still don't know where that extra plug goes connected to.

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JAG