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Help With A/C HR6 Connections by Larry Nakamura
Started on: 11-15-2003 10:44 PM
Replies: 8
Last post by: Larry Nakamura on 11-17-2003 12:15 AM
Larry Nakamura
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Report this Post11-15-2003 10:44 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Larry NakamuraClick Here to Email Larry NakamuraSend a Private Message to Larry NakamuraDirect Link to This Post
I have a new HR6 A/C compressor ready to go
in the car. I can tell where the in/out lines
connect to, but the other two electrical
connections have a plastic cover on them with
a metal ring holding them in. How do I get
the metal rings out so I can make the
connections when I install it? Is there a
special tool to use. What if I took it to a
shop and asked them to remove them for me?
Anyone have experience with this?

Note; The in/out connections just have a
rubber cap which pulls right out.

1988 GT - 3.4L Conversion.

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Electrathon
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Report this Post11-15-2003 11:41 PM Click Here to See the Profile for ElectrathonClick Here to visit Electrathon's HomePageClick Here to Email ElectrathonSend a Private Message to ElectrathonDirect Link to This Post
There are electrical preasure switches that go in the two holes. They are held in place with snap rings. If your new compressor came without the switches then you need to transfer them from the old compressor. Remove the snap rings and GENTLY wiggle and pull them out. It is a good idea to use a little penetrating oil, they like to stick.
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Larry Nakamura
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Report this Post11-16-2003 02:42 AM Click Here to See the Profile for Larry NakamuraClick Here to Email Larry NakamuraSend a Private Message to Larry NakamuraDirect Link to This Post
The question is how to remove the rings that
are holding the plastic covers on the new
compressor? I'm not sure if it has the
electrical plugs or not as I can't get the
metal rings out of the new compressor. It
doesn't look like it does and I was already
anticipating having to transfer the
connectors. I can send you a picture of what
I'm talking about, but don't know how to
post them.
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ammotrup
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Report this Post11-16-2003 08:34 AM Click Here to See the Profile for ammotrupClick Here to Email ammotrupSend a Private Message to ammotrupDirect Link to This Post
You need snap ring pliers to remove the internal snap rings. After the snap rings are out, you can remove he plugs. If you leave the plastic plugs in the hose connectors and turn the compressor, the plugs should pop right out. Before you do this on the old compressor, be sure to flush the area well to remove the old grime and corrosion and the flood with lube (compressor oil). If the old compressor isn't frozen, you should be able to turn it to force the switches out (after adding some oil and plugging the outlet hose connection-Use the plastic seal from the new unit). If you resort to some type of brute force to remove the switches, be prepared to start looking for replacements.

Use new o-ring seals (There should be some on the plugs on the new compressor) before you install the switches in the new unit. Lube well and slide them in until they bottom out and then reinstall the snap rings. Add the required oil to the new unit before you install on the car.

James

[This message has been edited by ammotrup (edited 11-16-2003).]

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Larry Nakamura
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Report this Post11-16-2003 07:51 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Larry NakamuraClick Here to Email Larry NakamuraSend a Private Message to Larry NakamuraDirect Link to This Post
Thanks for your help. I actually already
found out what they were by going to the
store and looking around. I found the snap
ring pliers and got the rings off. Also,
pulled the plugs just to see how it works.
Thanks for the suggestion on getting out the
plugs on the old compressor. I'll be careful.
These are the little details that you never
know until you have done this job once
before. I need to have the system flushed
as I'm converting to r134a from r12 or I
would do as you suggest about adding the
oil. Also have new O rings for the in/out
hose and the new compressor has new O rings
for the plugs. Thanks again for the assist.
Now to get those upper bolts out to remove
the old compressor. I understand this is
another real fun part of the job.
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Electrathon
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Report this Post11-16-2003 08:10 PM Click Here to See the Profile for ElectrathonClick Here to visit Electrathon's HomePageClick Here to Email ElectrathonSend a Private Message to ElectrathonDirect Link to This Post
You can't flush the system with the compressor installed! Also you need to replace the accumulator when you do the conversion.

Don't know if you realized this, didn't want you to ruin a new compressor.

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Larry Nakamura
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Report this Post11-16-2003 08:47 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Larry NakamuraClick Here to Email Larry NakamuraSend a Private Message to Larry NakamuraDirect Link to This Post
I have replaced the accumulator, Orifice
valve, All O rings and will be doing the
A/C compressor. I will do all the hardware
and take it in to have it flushed and
recharged since I don't have the stuff to
do this. I will supply them the new oil and
coolant to do the job. Also, Will let them
know how much to put in the system and to
adjust it at the compressor. I did go with
a VOV (variable orifice valve too). Thanks
for the heads up about fushing. Right now
the only parts of the system that should
have old oil in it is the condensor. Maybe
alittle in the evaporator, but this drianed
out when I disconnected the orivice tub. I
will leave the in/out hoses disconnected and
the rubber plug in the new compressor. Plug
the in/out tubes so no air can get in.
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Electrathon
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Report this Post11-16-2003 08:59 PM Click Here to See the Profile for ElectrathonClick Here to visit Electrathon's HomePageClick Here to Email ElectrathonSend a Private Message to ElectrathonDirect Link to This Post
OK, you need to be carefull. It should be flushed through the comperssor ports on the hose at the compressor. The new compressor will be connected after the flush. It sort of depends what they are going to consider flushing, but the good systems run the solvent through at the lines at the compressor manifold. The accumulator should not be changed till after the flushing is done, the solvent will ruin the new one. Actually you should not have broken the seals on the accumulator till you were ready to seal the system. Just leaving it open a few days will saturate the desicant in it.

If you have installed the new accumulator in an open system you should pull it and "bake" it in the oven at about 275 for a couple hours, this will dry the desicant back out, so you do not need to replace it again.

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Larry Nakamura
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Report this Post11-17-2003 12:15 AM Click Here to See the Profile for Larry NakamuraClick Here to Email Larry NakamuraSend a Private Message to Larry NakamuraDirect Link to This Post
OK, I put in the new accumulator and sealed
the system right back up. I am aware of
the desicant issue. The new compressor should
not need to be flushed and it does come with
some lubricant in it.

I will be sure I talk to the shop and let
them know exactly what I have done to the
system and what they need to do for flush
and charge. There should only be residual R12
oil in the lines, evaporator and condensor.

I have read were some people just filled the
system with new oil and R134a and it was
fine. I'm trying to do what is the recommed-
ed process. IE replace some parts, flush and
recharge. I think I've got everything
covered.

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