I just put new rotors and new brake pads on my car and i .... first of all don't know how to retract the rear caliper piston, i've heard its bad to twist it in, and second of all i already have the fronts done and when i turn the rotor the pads rub on the rotor i don't know if this is supposed to happen or not, thanks

i had the same thing happen to me too when i did the brakes on my fiero.

If you screw in the caliper you can move it back and fourth a little bit to stop the pads from rubbing

I don't know what resource you're using but, I believe the Haynes manual is kind of unspecific on this one step. The E-brake lever needs to be removed from the actuator screw. It has a stop on it that prevents the piston from fully retracting. After that the piston should move easily with a C-clamp.
As far as the rubbing, presuming you haven't run the car. Rubbing is normal, they'll need to find their own home. You'll want to run the car and brake hard a couple of times. [NOTE: Do this in the daylight] Once done, feel around the rims. They should be warm but not HOT! Check for leaks, and so on.

[EDIT]
While you're in there, do yourself a favor and anti-seize your bleeder valves.

[This message has been edited by -=shame=- (edited 10-26-2003).]

theres a little tool you need for the rear calipers so you can push/twist the pistons back into their spots and yes the e-brake pieces on the back of the caliper need to be disconnected like mentioned above

C-clamp, and a block of wood works well to push in the piston

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Rich AIM one fast 2m8
WTB: 3.32 OR 3.65 4 speed tranny
'92 325i-- X-brace, eibach pro-kit, bilstein sport, S.T. brace, borla cat back,
'86 Fiero 2M8 ,350 bored .030 over,World Products s/r Torquers-ported, Manley valves, Weiand X-CELerator, edelbrock 750cfm.carb hypereutectic pistons, 1.5 rollers,lumpy cam, sanderson cc90's,2-1/4" exhaust4:10 tranny, Spec stage 3copper puck clutch, adj.Koni's, Eibach's,polly, tons more...
'86 Fiero 2m6, 2-1/4 inch drop, KYB's, ocelot exhaust, No cat.

quote Originally posted by $Rich$: C-clamp, and a block of wood works well to push in the piston

Not on the rear brakes, they need to be "screwed" in. If you got the stock rear calipers to go in using just a C-clamp and a block of wood you may want to do some investigating to see whats wrong with them.

As far as scrubbing on the front when first installed, thats pretty normal, as long as the wheel will still spin and does not seem to be locked you should see the scrubing dissappear as the brakes get broken in. I never really noticed any scrubbing on the rears I've done but I may have just not noticed.
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http://www.geocities.com/fierorulz/fieropage.html

[This message has been edited by DRA (edited 10-26-2003).]

I can't really tel you anything about your rear brakes, as I don't have fiero rear brakes, but the pads should ride on the rotor. If they didn't, one little piece of gravel could really ruin your day.

The Grand AM rear brake conversion is pretty simple. You may want to look into it. It uses a the front brakes from the Grand AM. You will no longer have a parking brake, but my car is an auto, so I really didn't care about that.

well i just drove it for the first time w/ the new pads and rotors, someone told me to feel the rotors when i got done drivin it to see if they were too hot.... well... i touched them and i hear the sound of bacon on a skillet, i burnt the tips of two my fingers, so i'm guessin that means that something is wrong, but thats just a guess.. anyone know what i could've done wrong to have this happen?

quote Originally posted by rims05: well i just drove it for the first time w/ the new pads and rotors, someone told me to feel the rotors when i got done drivin it to see if they were too hot.... well... i touched them and i hear the sound of bacon on a skillet, i burnt the tips of two my fingers, so i'm guessin that means that something is wrong, but thats just a guess.. anyone know what i could've done wrong to have this happen?

I think they said the rim, not the rotor, ouch! A rotor would be to hot to touch right after braking, if it starts glowing or smoking then it may be TO hot, but even under normal driving conditions you don't want to touch the rotor after you get out of the car.

ooooOOOoo ok well i learned MY lesson, but still the back brakes didn't seem to be working any idea why?