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Fiero Interior Disassebly by RWDPLZ
Started on: 10-24-2003 09:06 PM
Replies: 10
Last post by: ohio86se on 11-08-2003 10:00 PM
RWDPLZ
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Report this Post10-24-2003 09:06 PM Click Here to See the Profile for RWDPLZClick Here to visit RWDPLZ's HomePageSend a Private Message to RWDPLZDirect Link to This Post
My younger brother knows a girl at the High School who has a Fiero, but she wrecked it (rear-ended another car- poor Fiero) I asked my brother to ask her if she would sell any parts off the car, and she said I could have anything I want off it (insert maniacal laughter here ) So I want to take out the entire (or most of the) interior.

SO the question is: what tools do I need to disassemble the entire interior? So far I have

-13mm socket
-10mm socket
-wheel puller
-torx screwdriver (would this work? http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/product.do?BV_UseBVCookie=Yes&vertical=TOOL&pid=00930527000
-large phillips head screwdriver
-slotted screwdriver

What else?

I have the Chilton and Haynes manuals, and the articles from the Michigan Fiero club website.

The Fiero:
VIN: 1G2AM37RXEP334487
Miles: unknown
Color: Black w. grey interior
Condition: wrecked
Where: Traverse City, Michigan

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RWDPLZ
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Report this Post10-24-2003 09:35 PM Click Here to See the Profile for RWDPLZClick Here to visit RWDPLZ's HomePageSend a Private Message to RWDPLZDirect Link to This Post
Also: On the center console where the radio and climate controls are located, do you remove the face plate by unscrewing the four screws circled below? And if so, is it with a phillips head screwdriver, or torx screws, or what?

You know you have a Fiero problem when you start hoarding parts for a car you don't have yet

Thanks in advance!

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derangedsheep
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Report this Post10-24-2003 09:38 PM Click Here to See the Profile for derangedsheepSend a Private Message to derangedsheepDirect Link to This Post
that torx bit set is pretty good, that the one i have and it only doesnt fit 2 things. the door striker and the seatbelt torx bit on the pillar.

how about an angled screwdriver incase you decide to take the dash speakers.

maybe some box wrenches to get to the seats

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derangedsheep
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Report this Post10-24-2003 09:40 PM Click Here to See the Profile for derangedsheepSend a Private Message to derangedsheepDirect Link to This Post

derangedsheep

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Member since Mar 2003
the radio surround is torx screws. i believe T10 but im not sure. on that torx set its on the side with smaller bits, in the middle
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Roylmohr
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Report this Post10-24-2003 10:03 PM Click Here to See the Profile for RoylmohrSend a Private Message to RoylmohrDirect Link to This Post
Michigan yeah plan on putting some grunt into those driver side seats. The passenger side usually come out pretty easy on the cars I have worked on. Good luck! What kind of fiero is it? Is it a manual?
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JazzMan
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Report this Post10-24-2003 10:17 PM Click Here to See the Profile for JazzManClick Here to Email JazzManSend a Private Message to JazzManDirect Link to This Post
All of the interior torx panel screws are T-15. The seatbelts use T-45 or T-50, I can't remember which, and you have to remove the belts to get the side panels off. Most of the small screws are 7mm, use a nutdriver for those. A small-blade flat screwdriver is good for getting the inside rocker trim screw covers off. Use a wide spatule for the speaker grills so that you don't crack the dash, assuming the dash is saveable. There are screws under the speaker grills that hold the dash on. The steering wheel uses a 7/8" for the big hub nut and you'll need a puller for it, $10 at AutoZone. The seats are held on with 13mm nuts, you'll need a wrench if the socket is too deep to fit under the seat.

To remove the console related stuff, start with the ash trays, under them are 7mm screws holding on the shift surround. Once that's removed, remove the screws holding the front of the center console on. Open the glove compartment to expose some more 7mm screws. Now remove the center console. The ECM has some value, particularly if it's a V6, use a 10mm wrench to loosen, but not remove, the four nuts and slide it out. Disconnect the wiring by depressing the locking tabs.

Next remove the radio face plate. You'll see some screws at the bottom that were under the shift surround, remove those. Look closely to determine which screws to remove to take off the radio surround. If it has the guage pod, the screws for it are behind the radio faceplate, the metal bracket comes out with the guage pod.

BTW, pulling the wheel makes it easier to pull the dash.

Door panels are held on with screws that also hold the armrests in place. Once removed, take off the window crank knobs (if so equipped) by taking a jumbo paperclip and bending a slight L at the very end, no more than 1/8", and sliding it between the crank and the plastic disk, in line with the handle, to hook and remove the metal spring clip. Once removed, take off the door latch handle by removing teh screw that's under the little "Fiero" emblem. The bottom and side edges of the door panel are held on with "Christmas trees", it's better to cut those rather than risk tearing a hole in the door where they attach. The top edge of the door panel hooks onto the door structure, lift up and out to unhook it.

If the plastic structure that holds the radio, center console, etc. is not cracked or broken at the screw holes, save it as it is fairly rare. There are clips that hold it to the carpet, pry the carpet out of the clips. Remove any further screws and take the support off.

That's all I can think of at the moment.

JazzMan

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RWDPLZ
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Report this Post10-25-2003 09:26 AM Click Here to See the Profile for RWDPLZClick Here to visit RWDPLZ's HomePageSend a Private Message to RWDPLZDirect Link to This Post
OK, so:

-10mm socket
-10mm box wrench
-13mm socket
-13mm box wrench
-7/8 socket
-7mm nut driver
-wide spatula
-wheel puller
-torx sizes T-15, T-45, and T-50
-large phillips head screwdriver
-slotted screwdriver
-door panel removal tool (where do I get this?)

Thanks to all who responded +'s for all Looks like I have a lot of tools to buy. Anyone else find it odd an american car uses metric sized parts? Anything else I need?

The car is a black 1984 Fiero Sport Coupe with grey interior and automatic transmission, and those turbo-finned rims (think I might get those, too).

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derangedsheep
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Report this Post10-25-2003 10:55 AM Click Here to See the Profile for derangedsheepSend a Private Message to derangedsheepDirect Link to This Post
for the 13mm nuts for the seats. if you can, get a ratcheting box wrench. its a pain in the a$$ when youre crammed behind the seat and you have to lift the wrench off the nut and try to re-position it every time you loosen it a bit.
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GreenZ28in503
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Report this Post10-25-2003 11:46 PM Click Here to See the Profile for GreenZ28in503Click Here to Email GreenZ28in503Send a Private Message to GreenZ28in503Direct Link to This Post
I just reassembled most of my interior (waiting for gauge faces and speedo parts to show up). Your tools list is pretty complete, probably more so than what I used!

Things I used.

T-10 and T-50
7mm and 1/4" nutdrivers
10 and 13mm sockets and box wrench
#2 Phillips(fits every phillips screw I found) and large blade flathead (good for popping the door panels) screwdrivers

You might also want a small extension for your sockets, so you can take the SAIL PANELS if they are in good shape. (You'll need it to get into the hole behind the rear trim pieces.

Take some pliers and extra sockets and if by chance that car has a STEEL CLUTCH PEDAL (they are all black vs the originals which are black/silver), get that too! Take all the little clips that hold the carpet to the center console as well. I lost one.

I can't think of anything else right now.

------------------
Donny
95 Z28 M6; Free mods, bolt-ons, 13.3@102 1.9 60' on DRs (Pic)
91 AccordA4; Stock. 140K miles. Runs like new.
86 Fiero SE M4; Not even mine anymore but I'm still stuck working on it 3.4L, bolt-ons
86 Fiero SE M4; Restore and heads/cam 3.4L in progress.

[This message has been edited by GreenZ28in503 (edited 10-25-2003).]

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css9450
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Report this Post10-26-2003 08:34 AM Click Here to See the Profile for css9450Click Here to Email css9450Send a Private Message to css9450Direct Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by derangedsheep:

for the 13mm nuts for the seats. if you can, get a ratcheting box wrench.

Yes, definately! Craftsman has nice ones, with your choice either straight or angled end. I bought the angled end, and got the seats out in about 15 seconds.

Some GM cars have occasional 5.5 mm bolts on them, so if you can find a 5.5 nutdriver you might grab that also (aren't the V6 ignition modules held on with 5.5 mm's? - its either that or 7 mm).

[This message has been edited by css9450 (edited 10-26-2003).]

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ohio86se
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Report this Post11-08-2003 10:00 PM Click Here to See the Profile for ohio86seClick Here to visit ohio86se's HomePageClick Here to Email ohio86seSend a Private Message to ohio86seDirect Link to This Post
get yourself a "skew-driver" set
the kit has a variety of drivers and an
angled handle that makes getting into tight spots very easy.also the angle head has gearing in it that gives you extra torque and removes screws fast

rick

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