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  3.4 DOHC Owners. How fast ur temp gauge reach 220*?

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3.4 DOHC Owners. How fast ur temp gauge reach 220*? by DreXteR
Started on: 10-20-2003 01:26 PM
Replies: 7
Last post by: mike kaas on 10-21-2003 05:27 PM
DreXteR
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Report this Post10-20-2003 01:26 PM Click Here to See the Profile for DreXteRClick Here to visit DreXteR's HomePageSend a Private Message to DreXteRDirect Link to This Post
I start my engine from bone cold and in 1 or 2 min it reaches 220*!!! And it dont have the stat on. I beleive is the sensor or the gauge.

What sensor did you used?


Thanx
DreX

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DreXteR
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Report this Post10-20-2003 01:29 PM Click Here to See the Profile for DreXteRClick Here to visit DreXteR's HomePageSend a Private Message to DreXteRDirect Link to This Post
Also I noticed that whe I start the engine a whine sound comes from the engine. Its like supercharger sound but not loud. Another thing is that I can hear the valves thiking all the time, is this normal?

Thanx
DreX

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TK
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Report this Post10-20-2003 03:19 PM Click Here to See the Profile for TKSend a Private Message to TKDirect Link to This Post
Are you sure the noise isn't the injectors clicking (normal)?

The temps sound like you have air in the system assuming the gauge is working right. We used the stock gauge sender (green wire, not brown/yellow. That's for the ECM).

The whine is likely the timing belt. Normal on the one's I've been around, but it wasn't real loud. Could be the alternator too. Remove the accessory belt for a second and see if the noise goes away.

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DreXteR
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Report this Post10-20-2003 04:23 PM Click Here to See the Profile for DreXteRClick Here to visit DreXteR's HomePageSend a Private Message to DreXteRDirect Link to This Post
We flushed the cooling system system and the problem persist. A un usual behavior was that some times the gauge was 2 lines above 100* and then start to climb to 200* then go back to the previous position. This was with the the engine in idle and direct radiator fan.

Other one is the engine in idle at 200*, turn off the engine and put the switch back on and the gauge start to lowering the temp pretty fast to -160 and we fire up the engine and then it goes to +200* in fast.


About the injectors clicking I will have to verify. It sound like lifters but im using 5w30 to make the oil get all over faster. Is there any way to know if are the injectors??


The whine sound is like u describe. Sure is belt. Makes sense. I adjust it very tight.

Thanx
DreX

[This message has been edited by DreXteR (edited 10-20-2003).]

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SplineZ
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Report this Post10-20-2003 06:09 PM Click Here to See the Profile for SplineZClick Here to visit SplineZ's HomePageSend a Private Message to SplineZDirect Link to This Post
My water pump made a "super charger" like sound just before it died... Im pretty sure I over tensioned the belt, which caused pre-mature bearing failure..

It'd still push some water around, but not very much..

James Z

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TK
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Report this Post10-20-2003 08:35 PM Click Here to See the Profile for TKSend a Private Message to TKDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by DreXteR:

We flushed the cooling system system and the problem persist. A un usual behavior was that some times the gauge was 2 lines above 100* and then start to climb to 200* then go back to the previous position. This was with the the engine in idle and direct radiator fan.

Other one is the engine in idle at 200*, turn off the engine and put the switch back on and the gauge start to lowering the temp pretty fast to -160 and we fire up the engine and then it goes to +200* in fast.


About the injectors clicking I will have to verify. It sound like lifters but im using 5w30 to make the oil get all over faster. Is there any way to know if are the injectors??


The whine sound is like u describe. Sure is belt. Makes sense. I adjust it very tight.

Thanx
DreX

[This message has been edited by DreXteR (edited 10-20-2003).]


How long does it take to swing up and down? In seconds, it's air (usually), in a minute, it might be normal since it takes time for the coolant in the front to flow to back and close the stat back off. Getting all of the air out takes a couple of burps.

Getting to the injectors is a bit tough but you might be able to get to an end injector and put a long screwdriver to the body of one with the handle to your ear and use it like a stethoscope. Injectors sound more like clicking vs the rattling of low oil pressure in lifters. Both will follow the RPM in rate so that doesn't help much. You can try turning the TPS while the throttle is closed. It will put it in power enrichment and the injectors will change sound. If it's lifters, it won't. Doing that will make the engine run rough for second.

[This message has been edited by TK (edited 10-20-2003).]

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DreXteR
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Report this Post10-21-2003 12:22 PM Click Here to See the Profile for DreXteRClick Here to visit DreXteR's HomePageSend a Private Message to DreXteRDirect Link to This Post
My engine dont have the stat. Since day 1 I had overheat problems. The first time with the stat on while we where fixing a few stuff a heater hose blew off. Since then I running w/o stat.

Its possible that hooking the exahust(cat and muffler) did this effect????

DreX

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mike kaas
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Report this Post10-21-2003 05:27 PM Click Here to See the Profile for mike kaasSend a Private Message to mike kaasDirect Link to This Post
drexter
normally you would want to run with a thermostat, it is there to restrict the flow down to a usable level. the antifreeze flows through the radiator too fast for the radiator to cool it down. but this is only noticable on warm days and the temp would not rise as fast as you say.
first thing i would check is to feel the radiator hose at the front of the car when the gauge says it is getting hot. check to see if it is warm to see if the water is flowing through.
on my swap i modified the 2.8 housing and put it on the 3.4 and i can take the cap off and put my finger in the water to see if the water is warm ,which means the water is flowing
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