Shark is right. But just like any other year GM car the 88s also came with a few spring rates and shock combos. The GTs and Formulas had the best of the two. BTW if you want to upgrade your 88 call shark93726, "8 Shark" for some great bushings
When it is time to upgrade the '88 suspension, purchase the following
ALL of the suspension parts were purchased from Summit Racing: ’88 Parts List: Control Arm Poly Bushing Set PTP-7-207 $39.95 Trailing Arm Poly Bushing Set PTP-7-305 $41.69 Outer Tie Rod Ends MOG-ES3238RL $31.99 Sway bar Bracket Poly ENS-9-5158G $13.95 Greaseable 22mm rear GT Sway bar Bracket Poly ENS-9-5163G $13.95 Greaseable 28mm front GT Poly Tie Rod Boots $3.95/pr
Home Made End Links: Front: 7 ½” or 8” ½-20 Grade-8 Bolt ½” USS Flat Washers Grade-8 Note: USS is larger outer diameter than SAE. End link Sleeve made from ½” ID 1040 Steel Black Pipe, cut to length. Mods to Front Sway Bar Bracket: Predrilled bracket slot hole and car frame hole to accept 3/8” ID bolts. The original bracket has a nut welded to the bracket. These new brackets will need nuts to go with them. Purchase 3/8” USS flat washers. Must slot the washer part way to fit over the top of the bracket. Use ¾” lengths bolts for the front and 1” length bolts for the back of the bracket. Use the slotted flat washers for both the top and bottom side of the brackets. Torque to 35’/lbs. 3/8”-24, ¾” & 1” lengths, Grade-8 Bolts. With 3/8” USS flat washers, Grade-8.
Rear: 6” or 6 1/2”, ½”-20 Grade-8 Bolt ½” USS Flat Washers Grade-8 Note: USS is larger outer diameter than SAE.
End link Sleeve made from ½” ID 1040 Steel Black Pipe, cut to length.
Poly Bushings for the end links can be purchased from any auto shop. Drill out the ID to ½”. Most poly end link bushings are either 5/16” or 3/8” ID.
Front Shock Bushings: Replaced the stock rubber bushings with poly bushings. Used the same end link bushings that where use for the end links. These poly bushings you can get at any auto store. Look for end link replacement bushing set, all are Energy Suspension products. Drilled out the ID to match the OD of the Shock shaft. Purchase USS Flat washers, Grade-8.
Note: It helps to have a caliper or measuring tape handy to take the ID & OD Measurements. Either remove or trim the front control arm “Bumper Stops”. I trimmed mine off 1” from the top of the stop. If you have already purchased the end links, I would use them as is or drill the id out to accept the new bolts. In most situations, the STOCK END LINKS are OK. If you do autocrossing, I would recommend my mods.
The front sway bar bushing bracket is more stronger and more ridged than the original, therefore, it is like purchasing a bigger diameter sway bar, for a lot less $$$. The stock sway bar is 28 mm, with these stiff mods, the sway bar acts and handles like a 30 mm bar.
I would highly recommend that you purchase the “Fiero Service Manual”. It can be purchased from the “Fiero Store” for around $100, or try your luck on e-bay for an average selling price range $65 - $85.
IP: Logged
07:22 AM
SeattleRedFormula Member
Posts: 385 From: Seattle, WA, USA Registered: Aug 2002
I replaced all the bushings in my '88 with poly and I had one problem that maybe you can help me with. I could not get the front swaybar mount bushings (greasable) to fit in the same place as the originals. The originals have a flat spot in the metal part of the mount that the replacements don't. I left the old mounts installed and still have the new ones sitting on a shelf. Do you have some advice on how to install them?
Follow my directions: The attached sway bar bushing has the grease fitting on the very top of the bushing. You must remove the nipple and weld that hole shut. Then re-drill your new grease fitting hole to the 90 deg left hand side away from the previous top postion.
The orginal bushing has a nut welded to the bushing. With using the attached bushing the weld nut is not there, therefore, you must use the old fashion way of one bilt and a nut. I used 3/8" USS bolt, washers, and nuts - grade 8. You will use top and bottom washer. The top washer must be modified and ground off tell the washer is "D" in shape. In other words one side of the washer must be ground off so as the washer just sits at the bracket.
Re-drill the frame hole to the bigger 3/8" size. That is all it takes. e-mail me if you have any firther questions.
Mods to Front Sway Bar Bracket: Predrilled bracket slot hole and car frame hole to accept 3/8” ID bolts. The original bracket has a nut welded to the bracket. These new brackets will need nuts to go with them. Purchase 3/8” USS flat washers. Must slot the washer part way to fit over the top of the bracket. Use ¾” lengths bolts for the front and 1” length bolts for the back of the bracket. Use the slotted flat washers for both the top and bottom side of the brackets. Torque to 35’/lbs. 3/8”-24, ¾” & 1” lengths, Grade-8 Bolts. With 3/8” USS flat washers, Grade-8.
IP: Logged
07:00 PM
SeattleRedFormula Member
Posts: 385 From: Seattle, WA, USA Registered: Aug 2002