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88 suspension question by warden
Started on: 10-19-2003 11:17 PM
Replies: 7
Last post by: SeattleRedFormula on 10-20-2003 11:04 PM
warden
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Report this Post10-19-2003 11:17 PM Click Here to See the Profile for wardenClick Here to visit warden's HomePageClick Here to Email wardenSend a Private Message to wardenDirect Link to This Post
i am looking at a 88 were all the 88's equiped with the better suspension or only the GT's

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$Rich$
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Report this Post10-19-2003 11:18 PM Click Here to See the Profile for $Rich$Click Here to Email $Rich$Send a Private Message to $Rich$Direct Link to This Post
all 88's had differant suspension, and brakes than the 84-87's

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Rich AIM one fast 2m8
WTB: 3.32 OR 3.65 4 speed tranny
'92 325i-- X-brace, eibach pro-kit, bilstein sport, S.T. brace, borla cat back,
'86 Fiero 2M8 ,350 bored .030 over,World Products s/r Torquers-ported, Manley valves, Weiand X-CELerator, edelbrock 750cfm.carb hypereutectic pistons, 1.5 rollers,lumpy cam, sanderson cc90's,2-1/4" exhaust4:10 tranny, Spec stage 3copper puck clutch, adj.Koni's, Eibach's,polly, tons more...
'86 Fiero 2m6, 2 inch drop, KYB's, coil overs, ocelot exhaust, No cat.

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shark93726
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Report this Post10-19-2003 11:34 PM Click Here to See the Profile for shark93726Click Here to visit shark93726's HomePageClick Here to Email shark93726Send a Private Message to shark93726Direct Link to This Post
The suspensions are the same on all '88s, except only the GT and the Formula came with the rear anti sway bar.

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Gerald Storvik

http://www.8shark.com

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Rickady88GT
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Report this Post10-19-2003 11:55 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Rickady88GTClick Here to Email Rickady88GTSend a Private Message to Rickady88GTDirect Link to This Post
Shark is right. But just like any other year GM car the 88s also came with a few spring rates and shock combos. The GTs and Formulas had the best of the two.
BTW if you want to upgrade your 88 call shark93726, "8 Shark" for some great bushings
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Solo2
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Report this Post10-20-2003 07:22 AM Click Here to See the Profile for Solo2Send a Private Message to Solo2Direct Link to This Post
When it is time to upgrade the '88 suspension, purchase the following

ALL of the suspension parts were purchased from Summit Racing:
’88 Parts List:
Control Arm Poly Bushing Set PTP-7-207 $39.95
Trailing Arm Poly Bushing Set PTP-7-305 $41.69
Outer Tie Rod Ends MOG-ES3238RL $31.99
Sway bar Bracket Poly ENS-9-5158G $13.95 Greaseable 22mm rear
GT
Sway bar Bracket Poly ENS-9-5163G $13.95 Greaseable 28mm
front GT
Poly Tie Rod Boots $3.95/pr

Inner Tie Rod Ends and Rack Bushing from “Rodney”

Poly Grease:
Marine Lubricant 2-4-C W/Teflon $2.59/Tube

Home Made End Links:
Front: 7 ½” or 8” ½-20 Grade-8 Bolt
½” USS Flat Washers Grade-8 Note: USS is larger outer
diameter than SAE.
End link Sleeve made from ½” ID 1040 Steel Black Pipe, cut to length.
Mods to Front Sway Bar Bracket: Predrilled bracket slot hole and car
frame hole to accept 3/8” ID bolts. The original bracket has a nut
welded to the bracket. These new brackets will need nuts to go with
them. Purchase 3/8” USS flat washers. Must slot the washer part way to
fit over the top of the bracket. Use ¾” lengths bolts for the front and
1” length bolts for the back of the bracket. Use the slotted flat
washers for both the top and bottom side of the brackets. Torque to
35’/lbs.
3/8”-24, ¾” & 1” lengths, Grade-8 Bolts. With 3/8” USS flat washers,
Grade-8.

Rear: 6” or 6 1/2”, ½”-20 Grade-8 Bolt
½” USS Flat Washers Grade-8 Note: USS is larger outer diameter than SAE.

End link Sleeve made from ½” ID 1040 Steel Black Pipe, cut to length.

Poly Bushings for the end links can be purchased from any auto shop.
Drill out the ID to ½”. Most poly end link bushings are either 5/16” or
3/8” ID.

Front Shock Bushings: Replaced the stock rubber bushings with poly
bushings. Used the same end link bushings that where use for the end
links. These poly bushings you can get at any auto store. Look for end
link replacement bushing set, all are Energy Suspension products.
Drilled out the ID to match the OD of the Shock shaft. Purchase USS Flat
washers, Grade-8.

Note: It helps to have a caliper or measuring tape handy to take the ID
& OD
Measurements.
Either remove or trim the front control arm “Bumper Stops”. I trimmed
mine off 1” from the top of the stop.
If you have already purchased the end links, I would use them as is or
drill the id out to accept the new bolts. In most situations, the STOCK
END LINKS are OK. If you do autocrossing, I would recommend my mods.

The front sway bar bushing bracket is more stronger and more ridged than
the original, therefore, it is like purchasing a bigger diameter sway
bar, for a lot less $$$. The stock sway bar is 28 mm, with these stiff
mods, the sway bar acts and handles like a 30 mm bar.


I would highly recommend that you purchase the “Fiero Service Manual”.
It can be purchased from the “Fiero Store” for around $100, or try your
luck on e-bay for an average selling price range $65 - $85.

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SeattleRedFormula
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Report this Post10-20-2003 01:26 PM Click Here to See the Profile for SeattleRedFormulaClick Here to Email SeattleRedFormulaSend a Private Message to SeattleRedFormulaDirect Link to This Post
Hey Shark and Solo2,

I replaced all the bushings in my '88 with poly and I had one problem that maybe you can help me with. I could not get the front swaybar mount bushings (greasable) to fit in the same place as the originals. The originals have a flat spot in the metal part of the mount that the replacements don't. I left the old mounts installed and still have the new ones sitting on a shelf. Do you have some advice on how to install them?

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Solo2
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Report this Post10-20-2003 07:00 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Solo2Send a Private Message to Solo2Direct Link to This Post
Follow my directions:
The attached sway bar bushing has the grease fitting on the very top of
the bushing. You must remove the nipple and weld that hole shut. Then
re-drill your new grease fitting hole to the 90 deg left hand side away
from the previous top postion.

The orginal bushing has a nut welded to the bushing. With using the
attached bushing the weld nut is not there, therefore, you must use the
old fashion way of one bilt and a nut. I used 3/8" USS bolt, washers,
and nuts - grade 8. You will use top and bottom washer. The top washer
must be modified and ground off tell the washer is "D" in shape. In
other words one side of the washer must be ground off so as the washer
just sits at the bracket.

Re-drill the frame hole to the bigger 3/8" size. That is all it takes.
e-mail me if you have any firther questions.

Mods to Front Sway Bar Bracket: Predrilled bracket slot hole and car
frame hole to accept 3/8” ID bolts. The original bracket has a nut
welded to the bracket. These new brackets will need nuts to go with
them. Purchase 3/8” USS flat washers. Must slot the washer part way to
fit over the top of the bracket. Use ¾” lengths bolts for the front and
1” length bolts for the back of the bracket. Use the slotted flat
washers for both the top and bottom side of the brackets. Torque to
35’/lbs.
3/8”-24, ¾” & 1” lengths, Grade-8 Bolts. With 3/8” USS flat washers,
Grade-8.

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SeattleRedFormula
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Report this Post10-20-2003 11:04 PM Click Here to See the Profile for SeattleRedFormulaClick Here to Email SeattleRedFormulaSend a Private Message to SeattleRedFormulaDirect Link to This Post
Great. That doesn't sound too hard. I'll give that a try. Thanks a bunch.
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