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EGR system testing by jeremymarsh
Started on: 08-22-2003 10:35 AM
Replies: 3
Last post by: JazzMan on 08-23-2003 10:13 AM
jeremymarsh
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Report this Post08-22-2003 10:35 AM Click Here to See the Profile for jeremymarshSend a Private Message to jeremymarshDirect Link to This Post
While I have a code 32 now I need to know how to test each component, I have unplugged the valve and pressed up on the diaphram and plugged off the line and it stays up but when I start the car with everything plugged back in and press it up it does not change idle could it be just the valve or how do you test the solenoid. It never had this high idle until I started messing around with the idle screw on top of the throttle body to keep my throttle from sticking, put everything back were it was atis there anything else it could be. Need help please Thanks.
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JazzMan
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Report this Post08-22-2003 11:15 PM Click Here to See the Profile for JazzManSend a Private Message to JazzManDirect Link to This Post
You've got several problems going on at once here.

First, the EGR code 32 is set when the vacuum switch attached to the EGR solenoid bracket doesn't detect vacuum when the ECM commands the solenoid to provide vacuum to the EGR valve. This can be for several reasons. A broken or missing vacuum source line from the throttle body to the solenoid, a missing or broken vacuum line between the output (bottom) vacuum line on the solenoid and the EGR valve/vacuum switch. A defective vacuum switch or it's related wiring. Note: The vacuum switch only tells the ECM when there's vacuum. It cannot detect a faulty EGR valve or other fault in the exhaust part of the system. With a properly running system you should be able to feel the EGR diaphragm move as you rev the engine up over 2k rpm.

If you manually open the valve and the engine doesn't change idle, there are a few common reasons why. One is the valve is plugged with carbon. Remove the valve and clean it. Next is a clogged EGR tube, you can remove and clean it also. A cracked EGR tube will allow a big enough air leak that the additional flow of exhaust gases when you manually open the valve won't change the idle qualities.

Next is the idle adjustment. This isn't meant to be adjusted. Once it's been messed with, the only way I can think of to properly set it is using a scan tool or PC with WinALDL and interface cable to look at the IAC counts. Adjust the screw a little bit at a time until you're seeing 16-20 counts with the a/c and cooling fan off and the car at operating temperature.

JazzMan

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jeremymarsh
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Report this Post08-23-2003 01:55 AM Click Here to See the Profile for jeremymarshSend a Private Message to jeremymarshDirect Link to This Post
I did push up on the valve and no change in idle, also cant feel the diaphram moving at all, this just all of a sudden started happening when I messed with the idle screw was running fine before, so do I have to re-time it or what. Thanks
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JazzMan
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Report this Post08-23-2003 10:13 AM Click Here to See the Profile for JazzManSend a Private Message to JazzManDirect Link to This Post
Did you check the things I mentioned in my earlier post? If so, what were the results?

BTW, here's a vacuum hose routing diagram:

JazzMan

[This message has been edited by JazzMan (edited 08-23-2003).]

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