i am currently tearing down an 84 2.5 for the head for my 85 and when i pulled my tb off i noticed theres a small metal plate in the hole whats it do and will it affect performance if i remove it?? positively or negatively also whats the best method to port match and polish intake to head and exhaust man. to head??? thanks

Chris

oh yea what roller lifters and rockers or upgraded lifers/ rockers work??

quote Originally posted by 4BanGinFun: when i pulled my tb off i noticed theres a small metal plate in the hole whats it do and will it affect performance if i remove it??

I removed the plate in my TB and have not noticed any ill effects. As for a performance gain I can't say for sure.

Best thing I did to my stock duke was to go with accel 8mm wires, new plugs, dist cap, rotor, coil, and 360 air cleaner. It's no power machine, but it pulls really good.

For the Iron Duke check with Fontana 310-538-2505

[This message has been edited by turbo2256 (edited 08-20-2003).]

Who is "FONTANA"?

He builds all aluminum Ford "Clevor" engines and also Aluminum Iron duke varations for sprint cars ... some very interesting stuff. I wasnt looking for chevy stuff at the time but check it out. I dont think has a web site and dont know what I did with his literature at the moment.

I just called them, Their motors are based on the 60's Chevy II 4 cyl not the duke. FYI a complete motor will only run $28,000.

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i need to know any tips for porting and polishing my intake head and exhaust as i have spare manifolds

First of all I will come straight out and say I have never ported head or manifold, but I have seen the end results on both and have studied the process. I think I have a pretty good idea of what needs to be done.
It works the same for intake manifold, exhaust manifold and head. The process is fairly straight forward for all three pieces. You will nned a die grinder, elctric or air powered, and a selection of bits in size and shape. A dremel tool will take longer, and probably make you want to give up before the job is done. The easiest way to get an idea of what has to come off is using your manifold gaskets and match both the head and the manifold match the gasket opening. Of course you must have the right gasket and shouldn't have to actually remove that much. Basically grind out what doesn't fit the gasket opening. Then flow back into the piece your working on to grind out a smooth flowing surface. You want to reach back into the head and manifold and smooth out any rough spots from casting or assembly.
Now for some things to look out for the exhaust manifolds are welded almost header type. So you don't want to cut into the welds or take off too much material. If you stick to the gasket pattern you shouldn't have too much to worry about. Just look at where you are going and use common sense. In you intake manifold I have read about the "swirl projection", which is a raised area that introduces swirl into the fuel air mixture for better perfomance. If you remove the valves from your head to port the rest of the fuel air path be sure you protect your valve seats. One person used a milk carton plastic shield formed into a sleeve to keep the bit away from the seats. I think that is where you find the "swirl", just smooth the mixture path to increase air flow. Don't hog out too much material you still want to keep your water jacket intact.
Now with all that I have said before you grab your tools and parts, do a search on the tech area and Archive on "porting" or some other variation for more information. Because I have never done it this post is purely overview. Look for the details other postings can provide. Remember what you take off cannot be easily replaced, so carefully grind away after research and reading what others have learned in their quest for more power.
Hope this helps and have fun.
Jim

Any information I have collected over the years is found on my website (in signature):

Ira

If anyone has anything new to add, please let me know.
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[This message has been edited by Monza76 (edited 08-21-2003).]