I finally have it done!!! I'm not so sure I'd recommend anyone doing BLACK for their first basecoat/clearcoat paint job but it did come out REAL well!!
Beautiful, I was thinking of going with a more "stand out" color with my black/silver GT but now I'm thinking of all black. Black is a bad color to start painting with but the good thing about the Fiero is that they dont ding.
Wheels also look great with the new paint.
[This message has been edited by fierogt3 (edited 07-29-2003).]
I finally have it done!!! I'm not so sure I'd recommend anyone doing BLACK for their first basecoat/clearcoat paint job but it did come out REAL well!!
Use plenty of clear coat, at least 2 good coats, then search on google for "color sanding" There's a great site that explains it in detail.
I used 1500 and 2000 grit paper, soaked it in a bucket of water with dish soap in it.
I sanded the entire car with 1500 just to the point where orangepeel from sanding disappeared. (You couldn't see or feel any before but trust me it's there.) When the dots were about the size of a pinhead I switched to the 2000 grit and sanded the opposite direction until they disappeared.
I then used a wool buffing wheel with 3M Imperial Microfinishing compound at about 2000 RPM until the sanding haze was gone.
I followed with a Mequiars foam glazing pad at 12-1400 rpm using 3M Imperial Machine Glaze until I had a high gloss.
Finally I finished up with 3M Imperial Hand Glaze.
Seriously the pictures don't do it justice at all, I was shocked that *I* could create a finish like this.
I used DuPont Chroma Base and HC-7600 ChromaClear. The HC-7600 is NOT recommended for overall paint jobs, it cures too fast and you end up with dry lines. I had all the panels off the car so I didn't have a problem. I did have to walk around the car a lot while painting the roof to avoid dry line problems though.
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04:24 PM
FieroV6Dude Member
Posts: 205 From: Coloma MI USA Registered: May 2002
Why is the Front piece always look more dull than the rest of the car in all the pics I've seen of fieros? is it just the angles or is there something else to it?
I think the only one that I've seen with a shiney finish that matched was SkiTimes. I'm not 100% sure though.
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06:22 PM
Dangerkitty Member
Posts: 142 From: Troy, Michigan Registered: Jun 2003
What a great paint job! It looks so rich and deep! It is like a mirror but more like a wet lake of black. It is almost like you could go swimming in it.
You took the parts off of it? How hard was that? How do you control overspray? Did you paint the inside of doorjams? Did you paint the headlight assemblys?
Man, you really did great! Wow, you have my admiration! Can you do mine?
dk
------------------ Dangerkitty "on the prowl" Maroon 87 GT automatic, loaded, now with "sparkle wheels"
Use plenty of clear coat, at least 2 good coats, then search on google for "color sanding" There's a great site that explains it in detail.
I used 1500 and 2000 grit paper, soaked it in a bucket of water with dish soap in it.
I sanded the entire car with 1500 just to the point where orangepeel from sanding disappeared. (You couldn't see or feel any before but trust me it's there.) When the dots were about the size of a pinhead I switched to the 2000 grit and sanded the opposite direction until they disappeared.
I then used a wool buffing wheel with 3M Imperial Microfinishing compound at about 2000 RPM until the sanding haze was gone.
I followed with a Mequiars foam glazing pad at 12-1400 rpm using 3M Imperial Machine Glaze until I had a high gloss.
Finally I finished up with 3M Imperial Hand Glaze.
Seriously the pictures don't do it justice at all, I was shocked that *I* could create a finish like this.
I used DuPont Chroma Base and HC-7600 ChromaClear. The HC-7600 is NOT recommended for overall paint jobs, it cures too fast and you end up with dry lines. I had all the panels off the car so I didn't have a problem. I did have to walk around the car a lot while painting the roof to avoid dry line problems though.
How about putting down the color?
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09:41 PM
Arizona85GT Member
Posts: 1667 From: Glendale, AZ Registered: Jan 2003
Why is the Front piece always look more dull than the rest of the car in all the pics I've seen of fieros? is it just the angles or is there something else to it?
I think the only one that I've seen with a shiney finish that matched was SkiTimes. I'm not 100% sure though.
Trust me, it's just as shiney as the res of the car.... it's the angle.
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11:28 PM
FieroV6Dude Member
Posts: 205 From: Coloma MI USA Registered: May 2002
As far as painting... If I can do it... anyone can. That's my first paint job.
I asked RogerGarrison and a few other people here questions. I searched the web for Basecoat/Clearcoat and read alot. I also learned Color Sanding from the web.
I used DuPont ChromaBase and ChromaClear, my DuPont jobber was VERY helpful in helping me choose the right activators, primers, sealers, plastic prep solutions etc.
I followed the tech manuals at DuPonts site to the letter.
The biggest reason it came out the way it did is because of the one thing that EVERY person I talked drilled in to my head.
PREP WORK. Getting the panels ready to paint is more important than the paint or application of the paint itself.
If you think something might show, guarantee you IT WILL. Sand until your fingers are ready to fall off, then sand some more. DuPont says use at least 400 grit or finer, 400 leaves sand scratches with black basecoat so I had to re-sand everything with 600.
If the paint manufacturer tells you to wipe the panels down with a certain solution, DO IT.
Before you even start to think about touching the car with sandpaper, wash it 3 or for times with water and dawn dish soap, then wash it some more. Silicone will be your enemy!!!! Dawn will get rid of it. After you've washed it 3, 4, 6 times let it dry. Then with a paper towel soaked with DuPont Prep-Sol or equivalent in one hand and a clean paper towel in the other, wipe the prep-sol on, wipe it off before it dries with the clean towel. Throw away the towel you just used to wipe off the prep-sol, it's already contaminated. Use a fresh towel each time you wipe off the prep-sol. This will save you untold frustration in having a beautiful matte black basecoat that turns in to a fisheye disaster as soon as you clear coat it. Again, silicone is the enemy.
Just be patient, read, read, read. Don't get frustrated. Be prepared to spend about twice what you expected to, but you'll still be a few grand less than if you had someone else paint it and have it look like that.
I have about $1000.00 wrapped up in the project. That includes paint, filler, primer, sealer, respirator, new Cobalt HVLP paint gun and a high speed buffer.
I used a gallon more of basecoat than I expected I'd need due to problem panels from a parts car that kept lifting. I have a total of a gallon and half of clear coat due to fisheye problems from silicone. There were times when I was ready to throw a match at the car and walk away. If you get frustrated, clean the paint gun, shut the garage down and come back later.
When I did the final Machine Glaze and saw what I had created, all the frustration was worthwhile.
Glenn
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11:44 PM
Jul 30th, 2003
FieroV6Dude Member
Posts: 205 From: Coloma MI USA Registered: May 2002
What a great paint job! It looks so rich and deep! It is like a mirror but more like a wet lake of black. It is almost like you could go swimming in it.
You took the parts off of it? How hard was that? How do you control overspray? Did you paint the inside of doorjams? Did you paint the headlight assemblys?
Man, you really did great! Wow, you have my admiration! Can you do mine?
dk
Yes, I took every panel off the car, the only parts that were left were the rear clip and roof.
To control overspray is not really hard, with the basecoat it really isn't a big deal. With the clearcoat I would do a few parts at a time. The Clearcoat I used is overspray safe at 36" so I built a rack in my "spray booth" and layed out the pieces that could all be "wet" at the same time like the Aero Trim, headlight doors, spoiler stantions etc. and did them all together.
The front fascia, rear fascia, hood, decklid and spoiler were all clearcoated by themselves. Partly to avoid the overspray problem, partly because my gun only has a 22 oz cup and I didn't want to have to mix more clearcoat up in the middle of a panel.
The insides of my doorjams were already a real nice matte black, I left them alone. I did however paint the door sill portion of the aero rocker panels and purposely gave them an almost "matte photo" texture with clear, it really looks sharp. I did paint the headlight housings but I used Mar-Hyde Satin Black on them.
As far as painting one for someone else... I'm doing my brothers and after I see how that goes... There's my Formula and GT to do yet. But that's gonna happen in the winter.
Thanks for the compliments gang, I was VERY frustated a few times and you all have definitely made my day!!
Looks incredible! I should be able to paint mine this fall. Right now it's all in primer, but I will have to re-do some stuff and prime again. It will be my first paint job, and all panels will be removed to paint, also. Hope it comes out as good as yours.
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12:20 AM
exoticse Member
Posts: 8650 From: Orlando, Fl Registered: Jun 2003
OOOOOOooooooooh baby !! Just like how i want mine too look.
Those pics make it look even better !
Nothing like a black sleek machine ! Love the stance, now just tint the windows and you got a real show stopper wrapped up in that jaw dropping paint job!
I Know it is a lot of work but I am definatly going to give it a go and try to paint.
I think everybody should try it at least once.
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12:45 AM
Phil86SE Member
Posts: 1476 From: Kamloops, B.C., Canada Registered: Mar 2003
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