I'm in the process of repainting my rockers and grond f/x and was wondering which primer/surfacer is best for the plastic material the side ground f/x and rockers are made from...

It seems that every GT or SE i see has these areas peeling, so which primer/surfacer will stick the best and flex with the plastic too?

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The peeling paint probably isn't the kind of primer that's used, but the preperation. The primer that you use has to be compatable with the paint that's going to be used to on your rockers, so the best thing to do is talk to whoever is going to do the paint work. Personally, I spray PPG poly-urethane paint and use an epoxy primer whenever I can. It's expensive, but I've never had shrinking problems. When primer shrinks, it shows sanding scratches. Again, talk to you painter.

Before you prime, whichever primer you use, you need to make sure the surface is clean, smooth, dry, and sanded or scuffed. There shold be no shiny areas. Primer and paint will not stick to shiny areas. Prep work is 95% of any paint job.

Maybe Roger could chime in a bit here, too?

Mark the paint guru

Plastic adhesion promotor should be used prior to painting a plastic surface.

You can buy PPG from any Lordco store, it works very nicely. The shop i would at used to paint with PPG but now we are on to R-M automotive finishes and if you do proper prepping you could probably spray this stuff in yer back yard and it would look great. I love it...it flows and sets beautifully.

-Phil

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86 SE V6....under construction!
"Just remember, it's Race, not Rice."

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[This message has been edited by The Aura (edited 05-05-2003).]

Sorry....didn't mean any insult....

no, no, no.. its my bad.. its ok.. thanks for the help!

The only downfall i have found with PPG paint is how thick it is.

Most standard paint guns will come with a 1.3 tip on it but with PPG i recommend using a 1.2 tip just because of how thick it is. it will help the coats go on nicer and flow out better
this isn't coming from me. This is coming for a 25 year vet body man who i did my 1st year apprentise with. 25 years and he has never ever had a job come back. So i trust what he says

good luck though. Just something to keep in mind for yourself if your doing the painting or something to tell the painter who is painting it

It should turn out great though, show us some pics when it is done

Good Luck

-Phil

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86 SE V6....under construction!
"Just remember, it's Race, not Rice."

When I started painting, I used Sherwin-Williams....only because that's what the nearest paint shop sold. Then they moved their store....and I changed to PPG. When I went to work for a GM dealership, they used PPG...and still do to this day. I guess the only reason I use it is because that's all I know. I certainly won't steer anyone away from other paints because I don't know anything about Du-Pont or Sikkens or any other brand. It is rather expensive to change over, and I've had nothing return either.........

Mark

If you dont have orig paint, you might trust a 2 part primer so it dont shink like he said above. I use laquer Primer/Surfacer myself. It dries in a few minutes and I can keep touching it up if i sand thru it. No mixing a catalyst, just thinner. Theres really no need for an adhesion promoter, you just need to make sure its sanded and cleaned well. I will use it sometimes, like on interior parts. Paint will stick to sanded plastic fine, in fact i spray a lot of stuff after I sand it with just the paint and clearcoat and no primer at all. Some places though, laquer primer may not be a choice thanks to the ERA. Flex is totally unneeded, it evaporates out of the paint within a couple weeks anyway. I havent used it in 30 years......

[This message has been edited by rogergarrison (edited 05-05-2003).]

Roger is right. You don't need flex, unless you are spraying acrylic enamel on very flexable parts. The newer paints are flexable enough to handle twisting and bending....to a point.

Also, you don't need to use primer over old paint unless you have done some bodywork. New paint will adhere better to properly scuffed old paint IN GOOD CONDITION than primer over old paint. So, if you are repairing a spot, you don't need to prime the entire panel. Just the spot you repaired, then spray paint over the entire panel for blending purposes, then clear...if you are using it.

If you are changing colors, then you might want to prime the whole car so there will be no color variance. Some paints are somewhat translucent, and if you have an inconsistant base color ( like primer and old red paint ) and spray a new color over it ( like yellow ) you might actually have a difference in finished color....a shade of tint off....because of the base color.

Read!!! READ!!!!READ!!!!!!!!!!

It does help.

Mark

The Aura said: "Looks like PPg is the way to go... all yall recomend it...

I don't knock PPG paint, it's OK. There are some great colors like Chrysler PCH (Dodge Viper Blue)... but I have painted a number of custom paint jobs and I'll stick to DuPont every time. It flows better than PPg, and the clear coats are much more forgiving. I put 9 clear coats on a DuPont Chrome Illusion absolute purpleen prism paint job and had nary a problem with applying each successive coat just after flashing. The PPG can't do that... it's clear coats are picky and even if you follow the exact guidelings for the product, you may end up with a horrendous orange peel reaction. (Then it's back to the ol' sanding board!)

Gary Sconce yosemitefieros

I was using ICI, but now Im switched to R&M. Its low line clear is cheap and sprays nice, looks good. Only $10.50 a quart. I put 2 coats on a spray and out the door job and 3 on a color sanding and buff job. Maybe 4 if Im really doing a slick job. Never over 3 or 4 at the most. More you put, more likely to crack in the sun.

quote Originally posted by Phil86SE: Most standard paint guns will come with a 1.3 tip on it but with PPG i recommend using a 1.2 tip just because of how thick it is.

1.2 is a smaller tip than a 1.3, and would be even harder to spray a thicker paint.
Saying PPG is thick is like saying all Fiero's are slow.
What kind of PPG paint were you spraying? DCC, DBC, DBU, DAR, Global?

Don't mean to be negative, but just want folks to learn the right stuff =)

As for brand of paint, PPG, DuPont, Sikkens are all ok. I sold PPG for a few years so I'm biased, but also know that the competition sold a decent product as well.

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My Car

quote Originally posted by JD86GT350: 1.2 is a smaller tip than a 1.3, and would be even harder to spray a thicker paint. Saying PPG is thick is like saying all Fiero's are slow. What kind of PPG paint were you spraying? DCC, DBC, DBU, DAR, Global?

I wish i honestly knew what kind of paint it was, But im not sure. I was only doin my apprentise at the time and i wasn't doin much painting. This was told to me by the main body man i was working with. Like i said, i only heard good things about his work and by following what he taught me i have stayed out of trouble myself, so i am only reflecting what i have heard. Sorry i am not that much help

-Phil

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86 SE V6....under construction!
"Just remember, it's Race, not Rice."