I know it was silly to do an alignment right before I redo the A arms with poly and new ball joints, but since I am going on a trip to wichita I figured it was a good idea. And I’m glad I did cause I was like this…
\ \
\ /

I hate Missouri potholes.

I figured this was a good lead-in to where I can get the cheapest rack bushing. If my sister store that carries GM no longer offers the rack bellows I will probably be calling Rodney, but $20.00 for an aluminum bushing hurts my feelings.

You should be able to get the rack bellows from the Fiero store used but in good condition. I know I had to replace mine and they ended up getting me both, used, for $5 plus shipping.

i've got three used racks in my basement. i've even offered a set of bellows to a guy i canada for free but he has to pay shipping.

i am wanting a cheaper place to buy the bushing.

Buddy, are any of those 3-turn racks (ws6)? I have a ws6 GT, but the previous owner got a rebuilt rack that was non-ws6. Thanks!

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87 GT Automatic, Beretta GTZ Wheels, 225/50-16 Dunlop SP Sport A2s at all corners, Poly cradle bushings, Poly swaybar hardware, new KYB shocks and struts, 100W headlights w/ H4 conversion, 100W foglights, BBJ Resin Specialities side scoop.
Future mods: Complete suspension redux w/anti-bumpsteer, all poly, and rear swaybar, plus exterior redux, w/ 1fst2m6 style hood vent, and bright silver metallic repaint.

3800 S/C after all that!

i have one of Rodney's Rack Bushing's that I will sell you for $17 Shipped.

Email me at bhooper1@bellsouth.net

it will take me a day or so to dig it out, but i have a new one for ya.

hoop

quote Originally posted by Bigfieroman: Buddy, are any of those 3-turn racks (ws6)? I have a ws6 GT, but the previous owner got a rebuilt rack that was non-ws6. Thanks!

tell me how many turns and i'll check

Turn it all the way to one stop. Put a wrench on it an turn it to the other stop, paying attention to how many times the wrench turns through 360 degrees. It should be 3 or it should be 3 and one half. I want one that does 3 only. Thanks!

i have 2 that are 3 turns stop to stop. one is in my car and you cant have it.
the other came from an 84 that i picked up DOA due to clutch problems and i wanted it for parts.

i want a set of front control arms to do my poly swap
see this thread... https://www.fiero.nl/forum/Forum2/HTML/032707.html

I was thinking the GM replacement rack bushing was nylon. I thought Rodney made the only aluminum rack bushing, but maybe I'm wrong?

I guess I first tried my rack when i was on crack or something, because I just made sure that it was 3.5 turn to find out that it is 3 turn. I am so sorry, but thanks anyway!

Rodney, or anyone else.
When I put in my poly A arms I want to tighten up my steering and am wondering if I need to replace the aluminum bushing in the steering rack that I am prepping to go in my car. I am going to put in all new tierods but I am wondering about the aluminum bushing.

I have the bushing out and it measures.
ID 0.868
OD 1.261-1.262
With wall thickness ranging from 0.197-0.199

The rack shaft is 0.864.

That’s 0.004 of slop.

Does the new bushing have a smaller ID than what I have now?

i might as well add that the bushing is 0.859 long.

[This message has been edited by buddycraigg (edited 03-09-2003).]

buddycraigg - Just found this thread and was curious what you have done as I am currently rebuilding my steering rack. I also measured everything and I am within a thousandth of all of your measurments. Does anyone have a reason why there should be any slop in this system?

Thanks,
Dave

Some racks rust on the shaft and as it runs back and forth through the bushing it’s like a rat tail file.
I put mine back in, Rodney emailed me back and his bushing is .001 smaller ID.

By the way when GM tells you the seal for the pinion shaft is no longer available have them run this new number on locator.
7829755
I paid a dealer out of town 12 bucks and that included being shipped to my door.

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buddy
1.94/1.50 iron heads +0.030, 0.1popup, geardrive, edelbrock homeowner kit, 5spd jap tranny, N2O
car doesn't crank?
got a broken stud?
car wont start coming soon
KCFOG
ME

So, you put the stock bushing back in? I already have Rodney's bushing, but now I'm thinking that I will just save it for another rack. BTW, did you have to completely disassemble the rack and push the rack bushing out from the other side? It seems like it fits snug in the rack and there is now way to grab it from that side. Thanks for the heads-up on the pinion seal. I may just stop here with this one and put it back together though as it seems to be in good condition.

Well, thanks,
Dave

Does anyone have a diagram of the rack...I am hearing the names of parts like "Bellows" and "seal for the pinion"
and I'm not sure what these parts are...I though the only parts on the rack you can rebuild / replace are the inner
tie rods and just the bushing. What are the "Bellows" and "seal for the pinion"??

L.I. Fieros

Yes I put the stock one back in.

There is a C-clip that holds the bushing in the rack.
As an added note, the pinion bearing is held in place with a C-clip too

I knocked mine out from the other side with a bad steering shaft that I modified by grounding one end down flat and used it as a drift. I didn’t feel the 3 finger slide hammer puller I have was small enough but I bet ones made for pulling pilot bushings out of flywheels would work well.

Seanpaul

The pinion seal is just that. An odd shaped seal that goes above the pinion bearing. Where the steering column attaches to the rack.

And bellows is a generic term used for anything that crinkles back and forth like an accordion. In this case we are talking about the boots that cover the inner tierods.

------------------
buddy
1.94/1.50 iron heads +0.030, 0.1popup, geardrive, edelbrock homeowner kit, 5spd jap tranny, N2O
car doesn't crank?
got a broken stud?
car wont start coming soon
KCFOG
ME