How to remove a broken stud or bolt that is seized in from rust or corrosion.
This will require a hot torch. You will need a *something* and oxygen torch. A simple propane torch will not get hot enough in most case.
I worked here… http://www.engine-parts.com/ for a year and a half, (please don’t hold that against me) and I learned 2 things that I will carry for the rest of my life.
ONE, do not put positive valve stem seals on the exhaust valves on a buick head. (my one and only comeback).
TWO, how to remove broken studs, especially exhaust studs since I was in the head department.
If you still have a stud or part of the bolt sticking out…
1. Go to http://www.snapon.com/ and do a word search for ALLIGATOR and buy them. they cost about 32.00. they will bite in to anything, I have twisted off 3/8 studs with these things. Mine are about 9 years old and still working. Say that about your channel lock pliers.
2. figure out a good angle of how you are going to get on the portion of the stud or bolt that is remaining with your new pliers AND USING THEM IN THE CORRECT DIRECTION.
3. go to the grocery store and buy some paraffin wax used for jarring/canning.
4. heat the stud and some of the surrounding area with your HOT torch, but don’t get it so hot that it glows.
5. press the block of paraffin against it so the wax can melt and wick in to the threads. It seems to work the best when it is just barely cooler than where the wax catches on fire.
6. grasp the stud with your pliers (see step 2) and remove stud.
If there is not any part of the stud still sticking out…
1. centerpuch (if possible).
2A. if the stud is in an open hole ( it can be driven out the back side like on the upper exhaust studs of a 2.8) use a small drill bit to drill a centering hole.
2A1. find a sharp drill bit slightly smaller than the thread size of what you are working with.
2A2. follow steps 3, 4 and 5 from above.
2A3. use the larger drill bit to bite in to the stud and drive it clockwise out of the shoulder.
2B. if the stud is in a blind hole. ( it cannot be driven out the back side of the hole) use a small drill bit to drill a centering hole
2B1. find the “easy out” that corresponds with your stud size and then go down one size from what they suggest.
2B2. drill the proper sized hole for your easyout.
2B3 follow steps 3,4 and 5 from above with the exception that you heat the surrounding area a little bit more.
2B4. drive the easy out in the hole with a firm tap with a small hammer of large ratchet ( if you use too large of a hammer you will cause problems for yourself. Smaller is better)
2B5. Grasp on to the easyout and turn it counterclockwise.
(** I have also had good success with left handed drill bits for 8mm or larger studs)
If this doesn’t work then you would have had to drill and tap no matter what.
84 SE 2m8
85 GT (dead)
[This message has been edited by buddycraigg (edited 02-13-2003).]