You're very welcome.
I do have a service manual and have looked it over but it assumes one is trained in basic A/C knowledge.

Regarding the 134 conversion. It is a bad idea, in my opinion, due to the higher pressures. If you think R12 leaks the 134 is going to leak even more and it doesn't cool as efficiently. Due to the readily available supply of R12 in Mexico and elsewhere, getting it really isn't an issue for me here in California.

True/not entirely true. R134a's molecular structure is smaller than R12's, which means it takes smaller holes to leak thru, so a micro-porous (is THAT a word??) hose that holds R12 may leak 134a. However, there are new (well, new several years ago now) oils that are compatible with both refrigerants. The existing oil combined with the new oil actually serves quite well to "plug up" these micro-holes. Regarding higher pressures...that's not really the issue/problem. 134a isn't as efficient as R-12, so you don't get as much "cold" for the same amount of "pumping". However, as an ex A/C tech from Florida (read: THE state to stress-test A/C systems) I can honestly say that, while not all cars convert well, the Fiero does a reasonably good job with the conversion. Cars with marginally small evaporators and/or condensers usually suffer pretty bad when converted; we used to add extra condenser fans to a lot of cars to help. The Fiero has a good sized condenser, decent amount of airflow to it (away from it is another story, though...) and a large (for the cabin size) evaportator. High side pressures are generally within 10-20% higher with 134a...which is really not a big deal.

I have considered taking the car to have it done. But if it is like anything else I've had mechanics do on my babies, it will only get messed up. That's why I purchased all my own equipment. Once I figure it out, I can be sure the job is done correctly.

Honestly and truthfully, as long as you go to an honest-to-goodness A/C shop, not Midas or a general repair shop that happens to have a set of gauges, I would say you have a better chance of messing something up yourself than they do. No offense intended. Believe me, I generally advocate people doing ANYTHING they can to keep their cars out of mechanics' hands; I work on Fieros for a living, and seeing what comes out of "other" garages frankly gives me the willies sometimes. But, A/C is pretty specialized, and a well trained A/C tech can save you a lot of hassle.

A few more questions:
1. At one point when I was changing some of the O-rings where the engine bay connects the lines on the left side and I torqued to the factory recommended settings and it did not seem very tight to me. Is it just my imagination or what would be a good torque setting for the line fitting bolts?

That particular fitting is one I see "worked loose" a lot; as much as I like hearing that you're torquing everything per the manual, I'd say get that sucker nice and tight. Make sure they are lined up good. If they **** to the side as you're tightening them, they tend to cut the Orings as it clamps down. I know "nice and tight" probably isn't the answer you're looking for, but just use good judgement. It's a thin bolt.
EDIT: Thank you, big brother software, for "bleeping" out the word c0ck in the above paragraph...guess I should have said slipped...LOL...

2. Do I need to do something with the condensor like throw it in the oven for a day to evaporate all the moisture that it absorbed from being exposed to the atmosphere or does this need to be replaced?

I wouldn't throw it in the oven, unless you're single. (I know my wife gets a little worked up when there's car parts ANYWHERE in the kitchen...)Ed's85GT was pretty much on the mark; if the systems been open, it's probably a mess. Cleanliness is a big thing with A/C. Flush anything and everything you can (don't flush the line with the muffler or the evaporater, though; you'll never get all the flush out) and leave it on the pump for as long as humanly possible. I like to see a system that's been open sit on the pump for HOURS...even overnite if possible. Vacuum won't remove dirt at all, but it will pull the moisture out. And contrary to popular belief, it's not dry "as soon as it goes into vacuum"...it takes time. But probably less time than it would at 350 degrees on bake.

3. I heard there is a screen that one should check for debris. Where is this?

That's the orifice tube. Under the accumulator, there's a short rubber line crimped to a longer metal one, with a fitting at each end. It's in this tube.

Thanks for the tips,
Bob

No problem. I just hope it's helping. I know I'd probably be ticked if I was asking how to do something and everyone kept saying "take it somewhere else and let THEM do it", but, unfortunately, that IS the best advice I can give you. Well, next to this bit: Befriend an A/C tech, invite him over for beer and pizza one weekend.....